The World’s Best Mezcals According To The Beverage Testing Institute

Two mezcals and one sotol won Platinum Medal-Superlative, and 25 additional mezcals won Gold Medal-Exceptional at the Beverage Testing Institute (BTI) recent judging of Mezcal and other agave spirits.

The top ranked mezcals, both from Montelobos, each scoring 97/100 points, are Montelobos Pechuga Blanco Mezcal and Montelobos Tobala Joven Mezcal.

Pechuga mezcal is an artisanal type of mezcal that involves a unique distillation process that typically incorporates fruits, spices, and a raw chicken or turkey breast. The term “pechuga” is Spanish for “breast,” hence the name of the process.

The production process of pechuga mezcals is similar to that of Tequila but differs in several important respects.

First, Tequila must be produced exclusively from blue agave (Agave tequilensis). Mezcal, on the other hand, can be produced from a variety of agave species, each contributing unique flavors and characteristics to the final spirit.

Here are some of the primary agave species used in mezcal production:

Espadin (Agave angustifolia) is the most commonly used agave for mezcal production, accounting for around 90% of all mezcal. It is highly versatile and easier to cultivate compared to wild agave species.

The flavor and aroma profile is very approachable, with notes of fruit, citrus, and mild smokiness. This species is often used as a base for many mezcal varieties.

Tobalá (Agave potatorum) is a small, wild agave that grows in rocky, high-altitude areas. It is often referred to as the “king of mezcals” due to its complex flavor. The flavor and aroma profile is rich and floral, with pronounced notes of tropical fruits, herbs, and spices. Tobalá mezcal is highly prized for its unique and intense flavors.

Madrecuixe (Agave karwinskii) is part of the Karwinskii family of agaves. Madrecuixe grows tall and has a long, cylindrical shape. It is often found in wild and semi-wild conditions. The aroma and flavor profile is earthy and vegetal, with notes of fresh green herbs, minerality, and a hint of sweetness. It’s known for its complex and refined taste.

Tepeztate (Agave marmorata) is a wild agave species that grows in rocky, mountainous regions. It can take up to 25 years to mature, making it a rare and sought-after variety. The aroma and flavor profile is strong and distinctive, with intense herbal, floral, and peppery notes. Tepeztate mezcal is known for its bold and robust character.

Mexicano (Agave rhodacantha) is a wild agave. Mexicano is often found in diverse environments ranging from valleys to mountains. The aroma and flavor profile is herbal and slightly sweet, with flavors of green vegetables, citrus, and spices. It provides a balanced and nuanced taste.

Cuixe (Agave karwinskii) is similar to Madrecuixe. Cuixe is a member of the Karwinskii family and grows in tall, narrow stalks. It is typically harvested from the wild. The aroma and flavor profile is woody and earthy, with notes of dry grass, nuts, and a subtle sweetness. Cuixe mezcal is known for its complex and layered profile.

Arroqueño (Agave americana) is a large, wild agave species that can take over 15 years to mature. It produces mezcal with a rich and full-bodied flavor. The aroma and flavor profile are rich and creamy, with notes of fruit, vanilla, and earth. Arroqueño mezcal is highly valued for its depth and complexity.

Jabalí (Agave convallis) is a wild agave species known for its challenging fermentation process, which often results in foam and bubbling. The aroma and flavor profile is bold and complex, with flavors of wild herbs, citrus, and a distinctive minerality. Jabalí mezcal is rare and highly regarded.

Papalometl (Agave potatorum), also known as papalome, is a wild agave grown in high-altitude regions and is known for its small size and intense flavor. The aroma and flavor profile is floral and fruity, with notes of honey, spices, and a slight smokiness. Papalometl mezcal is appreciated for its vibrant and aromatic profile.

Once harvested, the piñas are roasted/cooked. Artisanal and traditional mezcal must roast their piñas in stone lined pits. Conventional mezcal production, sometimes referred to as “industrial production,” can also utilize stone ovens (hornos) or autoclaves.

Likewise, artisanal and traditional mezcal producers must use a tahona or wooden mallets for crushing the cooked agave piñas. Conventional producers can use contemporary crushing equipment. As a general rule, ancestral mezcal producers cannot use any steel or metal implements or devices in producing their mezcal. Even the stills, made from ceramic rather than metal, must conform to this rule. Additionally, mezcal producers typically ferment with wild yeasts.

It is in the second distillation that the “pechuga” mezcal process differs sharply from conventional Tequila and mezcal distillation. During the second distillation, a variety of fruits, spices, typically cinnamon and cloves, and sometimes nuts are added to the still. The most distinctive addition is the raw chicken or turkey breast, which is hung inside the still above the boiling liquid. This meat addition is believed to add a unique savory flavor and smoothness to the mezcal.

The resulting pechuga mezcal is known for its complex and layered flavors. It typically exhibits smoky undertones from the roasted agave, complemented by fruity and spicy notes, and meaty/savory flavors from the added ingredients.

The BTI Judging panel described the Montelobos Pechuga Blanco Mezcal, 48% ABV, 750 ml as featuring:

Aromas of Grape Kool-Aid powder, lime, and Mandarina Bavaria hops on the nose. The palate features similar flavors along with flavors of purple edible flowers, smoked raspberry bush, and crispy turkey skin. An incredible, almost otherworldly Mezcal, perhaps brought to you by Willy Wonka because you are seeing tastes in shades of green and purple and it’s taking you to wondrous, unheard of places.

The Montelobos Tobala, 47% ABV, 750 ml was described as having:

Aromas of buttered mango, dried banana, and dried Thai basil on the nose accompanied by flavors of Lychee, prickly pear, and spices on the palate. New, enchanting flavors abound with every captivating sip; complex, creamy, fruity, and spicy notes are expressed with each welcome return to the glass.

Also winning a Gold medal in the pechuga mezcal category is Salvadores Louie’s Liquor Private Batch Selected Destilado Con Café y Cacao Pechuga Mezcal Batch CCX-01. This is a retailer private bottling that employed coffee beans and cacao in the pechuga process.

See the BTI website for a complete list of the Gold medal winners in the Mezcal category.

Also winning a Platinum medal is Nocheluna Sotol, Blanco Sotol, 43% ABV, 750 ml.

Sotol is a distilled spirit made from the Dasylirion plant. The production process of sotol is similar to that of mezcal but uses a different plant, botanically unrelated to agave, for its base.

Dasylirion plants, which grow wild in the Chihuahuan Desert and other arid regions of Mexico, are harvested when they reach maturity, typically after 10-15 years. The sotol piñas, are roasted in underground pits lined with stones. The roasting takes several days and imparts a smoky flavor to the sotol.

After roasting, the sotol piñas are crushed to extract the juices. Traditional methods use a tahona, a large stone wheel, to crush the piñas, although modern mechanical methods may also be used.

The crushed sotol fibers and extracted juices are placed in fermentation tanks, where they are left to ferment naturally with wild yeast. This fermentation process can take several days to weeks.

The fermented mash is then distilled, usually for two rounds, typically in copper pot stills, although traditional clay stills can also be used.

Sotol can be bottled immediately after distillation as a joven (young) sotol, or it can be aged in barrels to develop more complex flavors. Aging times and methods can vary, resulting in different styles of sotol such as reposado or añejo.

The BTI judging panel described the sotol as featuring:

Aromas of soy sauce, sake, and grilled green apple on the nose. Flavors of rice wine vinegar, junmai sake, and umami on the palate. With great depth of flavor and a little funk, this is a Sotol headed in the direction of Blanco Mezcal.

There was only one pechuga mezcal that won a Gold medal, but this one had a very intriguing aroma and flavor profile.

Salvadores Louie’s Liquor Private Batch Selected Destilado Con Café y Cacao Pechuga Mezcal Batch CCX-01, 49% ABV, 750 ml is a private label, retailer specific mezcal crafted with special ingredients. Note, that there virtually identical versions of this same spirit in other retailers.

Aromas of roasted coffee beans and dark chocolate dominate on the nose, with underlying notes of smoky agave, toasted nuts, and a hint of dried fruits.

The palate features flavors of freshly brewed coffee, bittersweet cacao, and caramelized agave. Subtle spices, including cinnamon and clove, add depth, while the smoke from the traditional pit roasting complements the sweetness of the cacao and the robustness of the coffee.

The finish is long, with a touch of sweetness and a lingering, but pleasant balance of smokiness, spice, and cacao and coffee notes.

Finally, Shelter Distilling won two gold medals for its Shelter Distilling Rancho Del Sol California Agave Spirit, 47% ABV, 750 ml and Shelter Distilling Limited Release Lowlands Agave Spirit, 45% ABV, 750 ml.

The craft distillery is located in Mammoth Lakes, California. Its agave spirits are produced using agave sourced in both California and Mexico. The Rancho del Sol, for example, uses Agave americana, Agave potatorum (Tobala), Agave salmiana, Agave parryi, and Agave tequilana (Blue Weber) that are grown in California to produce a mezcal-like spirit.

The lowland agave spirit uses agave sourced in the Jalisco lowlands of Mexico. Once harvested, the piñas are trucked to California where they are processed and distilled into a Tequila-like agave spirit.

Since both expressions either use agave sourced outside of the protected Mexican DO (Denominación de Origen) or produce the spirit outside of the DO, the product cannot be called Tequila or mezcal.

The increasing success of agave spirits produced outside of Mexico will ultimately poise a significant challenge to the Mexican spirits industry.

This year’s judging from the Beverage Testing Institute produced an interesting mix of mezcals and other agave spirits. If you are a fan of agave spirits, there is much to explore here, both those of Mexican origin and those from elsewhere.

Salud!