Henrik Vibskov Copenhagen Spring 2025 Collection

In a large dark venue in Christiania, Henrik Vibskov reprised The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance, having first presented the collection in Milan during the menswear week. More than a show, it was a performance—as is Vibskov’s wont. This designer is a multi-faceted artist with his hands in many pies: music, theater, and fashion. 

Speaking of hands, all around the stage, large-sized red digitally-printed appendages were suspended from the ceiling alongside red ropes and padded black belts. At the start of the proceedings white-suited helpers  appeared, slipped on the belts and started controlling the hands as if they were marionettes. Caught in the hands were pieces of white drapery which rose and dipped like waves as the ropes were pulled tight and then went slack.  Hands were a motif used often by the surrealists; here they didn’t feel like implements of pleasure or pain but helpful tools. Though the landscape they created was unpredictable in its undulations, it was also a soft, dream-like one.

Fluidity was a theme; it was present in the dance of the drapes and curved cuts, yet the overall effect of the collection was not harmonious, in part because of the variety and type of patterns, but also, perhaps, because of the state of things, to which Vibskov is sensitive. “Looking at the world and how it is, I think it’s just crazy,” he said after the show. “I think we need to help each other and give hands and assist.”

Textile design is at the heart of the designer’s practice and the ones developed for spring were sometimes challenging in their complexity and boldness. The dissolving black and yellow check is certainly not for shrinking violets. Amazing in its intricacy was another soft-colored check on cream overlaid with sea life, including octopi, whose ability to be of help eight times over was an inspiration, according to the show notes. Pants in this material paired with a striped sweater definitely had wow factor.

After several seasons of relative stasis on the women’s side, change arrived here beautifully. Pants were cut so that the outer seams were curved, creating a stunning silhouette. Sheer printed blouses featuring sleeves with 2D-looking scallops (inspired by the shape made when you interlock your fingers) were an example of many hands making light work.