Five Trend Takeaways from Copenhagen Fashion Week

Below, five trend and style observations from the week.

Rugby Shirts Are Absolutely Happening

Stem SS25.

Two years ago, my coworkers and I here at Bazaar realized that there was a prep resurgence in our midst, and I decided to do a deep dive on how the rugby shirt became a cool-kid staple. While the look has always been a thing, it feels like it has now truly made its mainstream resurgence. In Copenhagen, it was everywhere.

At OpéraSport, models wore rugbys cinched around their waists with thin black floral belts (while making the pantsless look feel believable). Weaver and textile designer Sarah Brunnhuber of Stem created her own version with fringed tassels around the collar and sleeve; I noted five different fashion editors clocking the top as a must-have. At Marimekko, the preppy staple was supersized into a dress. At Baum und Pferdgarten, models wore theirs with their collars popped, layered over glitzy sequin skirts. Worn with the signature Danish ease, the shirt feels less stuffy and more cool.

Guest in Residence Striped Cashmere Rugby

SIEDRES SIEDRES Ole Polo Sweater in Orange. – size XS (also in L)

Now 30% Off

Rowing Blazers Zig Zag Rugby

The ’80s Are Replacing Y2K as the Retro Decade of Choice

Caro Editions SS25.

Nicklas Skovgaard SS25.

Lately, every season has been dominated by what feels like a never-ending obsession with the 2000s. But in Copenhagen, designers made the case for looking to the ‘80s instead. Nicklas Skovgaard’s presentation featured models dancing to classic ‘80s beats in puffed silhouettes, sporty maillots, and extra big hair. At Caro Editions, there were zebra pantsuits with large shoulders and chunky belts. But perhaps most notably, the era’s influence was seen at the Royal Danish Academy and Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design, where student designers sent their schoolwork down the runway. The large draped silhouettes and funky checkered patterns made it clear that the youth of today has a different decade on their mind.

Jacquemus Caruso Zebra Long Belted Coat

Diotima Oversized Blazer

CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS Plaid Pleated Balloon Trousers

The Most Fun Looks Are a Little Bit Off

A. Roege Hove SS25.

Bonnetje SS25.

Part of the appeal of the way the Danes dress is that it’s done with a sense of ease and wonder that reminds me of how little kids pick out the clothes they love. It’s not that the aesthetic is childlike, exactly—it’s that nobody’s worrying too much about fashion rules.

On the runways, plenty of pieces were styled in ways they often aren’t. At Mark Kenly Domino Tan, shirts were worn backwards, with buttons and collars falling down the back. At The Garment, draped flowing dresses were worn over pants. At newcomer Bonnetje’s presentation, shirts were reworked into pants and pants were reworked into shirts. At A Roge Hove, models buttoned their cardigans only part way, exposing belly-buttons and midriff, with turtleneck collars paired with just panties. They all reminded me of how fun fashion can be when it’s approached with few constraints or preconceived notions about what is right and what isn’t.

Meryll Rogge Deconstructed Stripe Asymmetric Cotton Button-Up Shirt

Vaquera Knotted Fine-Ribbed T-shirt

Loewe Button-Front Shirtdress with Turned-Up Sleeves

Sheer Can Be Just As Ethereal As It Is Sexy

Remain SS25.

Baum und Pferdgarten SS25.

Naked dresses and naked dressing are very much of the moment. But in Copenhagen, the aesthetic was given a more angelic, diaphanous vibe that makes it feel more approachable. At Nicklas Skovgaard, models layered bubble skirts over long lace skirts to add some coverage and dimension to the look. At Joao Maraschin, underwear peeked out of long lace textured skirts with boxy bomber jackets evening out the vibe. At Remain, multiple transparent pieces were worn on top of one another, layered to create a look that was sheer without being too sheer. At Baum und Pferdgarten, brown lace skirts felt scholarly when styled with oversized sweaters with pushed-up sleeves. Leave it to Copenhagen to take an aesthetic most would consider off limits and make it seem easy and worth wanting to give a whirl.

Christopher Esber Christopher Esber Veiled Ruched One-Shoulder Mesh Top

Bode Sheer Juana Trouser

Maison Margiela Mixed Media Miniskirt Layered Shorts

Capri Pants Don’t Have to Be Controversial

Herskind SS25.

Gestuz SS25.

A couple years ago, just the mention of low-rise jeans would elicit a gasp. Then it was skinny jeans. And now it’s capri pants stressing everyone out. They’re certainly happening on the streets, but people are intimidated about how to make the look click.

On the Copenhagen runways, though, capris were worn with such effortlessness that it was hard to remember they’re often considered contentious. At Gestuz, a rock band played for guests as groupies walked out with sheer button-downs tucked into denim pedal pushers. At Herskind, they were the perfect counterpart to more voluminous structured tops. A. Roege Hove’s ribbed iteration in the brand’s signature textured fabric made the silhouette look not just chic but comfortable. Watching them all walk down the runway I couldn’t help but wonder—very much like fashion’s favorite capri enthusiast, Carrie Bradshaw—why I’d ever doubted the style.

Sandy Liang Solow Capri Pant

Mango Piccola Belted Capri Pants

DONNI. The Rib Pedal Pusher in Grey

Tara Gonzalez is the Senior Fashion Editor at Harper’s Bazaar. Previously, she was the style writer at InStyle, founding commerce editor at Glamour, and fashion editor at Coveteur.