Milan Fashion Week cheat sheet: Spring/Summer 2025

Attendees should make space for presentations this season. Editors point to emerging labels Florania, Durazzi Milano, Casa Preti, Domenico Orefice and Cavia as some of the talents Vogue is watching closely. Also, Niccolò Pasqualetti — who usually shows in Paris and was among the finalists for the latest LVMH Prize — will present a retrospective exhibition of his works and a small preview of the SS25 for the first time in Milan; the designer received Italy’s CNMI fashion fund grant for 2023/2024 to support the growth of his label. Chinese designer Susan Fang will make her Milan debut this season, supported by Dolce & Gabbana, following previous “supported by” recipients Feben, Karoline Vitto and Tomo Koizumi.

The digital runway shows “tend to get overlooked”, but are becoming more and more a place to spot new talent, Feroldi says. On Monday (23 September), she points to brands Via Piave 33, Defaïence by Nicola Bacchilega and Francesco Murano, who are each building global recognition via celebrity dressing. Via Piave 33 presented at Pitti last season, supported by Kering Innovation Lab.

Trends to watch, or no trends at all?

In terms of trends, buyers and editors are looking for textures this season, Chartrand says. “Our SS25 buy will take shape as we go, but we’ll always come prepared with insights from the last season — for example, cool micro-trends that we think more designers will pick up on next season,” she says. “What does that mean for spring? We’re looking for pieces that are playful but feminine; think contrasting materials, layering, sheerness, embroidery and embellishments. On the flip side, we’re also looking for that stronger, empowering tomboy look and we’re hoping to see a lot of neckties.”

“What I’m looking forward to every season, to be honest, is to see some unexpected sparkle in Milan,” Vogue Runway’s Cardini says. “As we know, Milan is often very reasonable, it’s about wearability, it’s down to earth,” for this reason, she’s watching The Attico and Marni for a bit of pzazz. “I love what Francesco [Risso] does at Marni, he brings a real jolt of artistic vision to Milan.”

In terms of trends, Milan may not be the launch pad, Cardini adds. Trends are not born in Milan, [they] are born in London, probably in Paris,” she says. “The big brands here go their own way. Milan is more about a consistency that comes from the past.”

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