Travel | The Highland Games at Grandfather Mountain, NC – Florida NewsLine

By Debi Lander
mail@floridanewsline.com 

I’m not of Scottish heritage, but have very fond memories of visiting Scotland, eating haggis, and listening to the haunting sound of bagpipes. On one trip to Scotland, I needed to buy a fleece vest and some gloves because I hadn’t realized it would be so cool — in August. Visiting the Highlands of Scotland provides relief from our Florida heat, but so does a visit to the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina. 

I’d heard great things about the Highland Games on Grandfather Mountain and jumped at the chance to join two girlfriends who were hoping to learn more about their Scottish ancestry. The Grandfather Mountain games are the largest gathering in the US, attracting more than 100 clans over four days.
The history of the Highland Games goes back nearly 1,000 years. Some historians trace their roots to the times of Celtic warriors, who would use athletic contests as a way to demonstrate strength, agility, and endurance. The gatherings are known for their unique blend of athletic competitions, music, dancing and celebrating Scottish heritage. 

The events at Grandfather Mountain take place at McRae Meadows in mid-July, from Thursday to Sunday. The central venue is a football field surrounded by the clan and society tents. Beginning with Thursday’s opening Torchlight Ceremony, Raising the Clans, which was quite impressive. No sooner did we arrive than the hum of bagpipes filled the air. 

The Celtic festival attracts many colorful characters, often wearing kilts and traditional dress, but take my word, you don’t have to be Scottish to enjoy it. Each clan proudly welcomes and connects its members in special ways by showing the clan tartan, a map of their ancestral territory, help with tracing family roots, membership and activities. You’ll find food trucks, merchandise shops, and plenty of bleachers. Food includes shepherd’s or meat pies, haggis and mash, sticky toffee pudding, shortbread, and typical state fair-style food.

The athletic games are the highlight with the iconic caber toss my favorite. A contestant lifts a telephone-like pole, steadies it, then tosses it upward so it flips over (sometimes adding a warrior’s cry or grunt). Other events include the stone throw for distance, hammer throw, and sheaf toss. Women also compete in some of the events. Passionate, skilled competitors who train faithfully come from a variety of backgrounds and professions. I met a teacher, a paramedic, a gym owner, and a farmer. 

Between events spectators watch demonstrations like sheep herding, with the dogs rounding up the sheep let loose on the field, parades, musical entertainment, children’s events and crafts. Cultural sessions offer educational presentations such as clan history, understanding the coat of arms, the Real Outlander, and whiskey tasting.

Many young girls to young adult women compete in the spirited dance competitions. They all wear kilts, usually with a vest over a white blouse, and special dance shoes. A piper plays the appropriate traditional melody whether it is a highland fling, jig, or the sword dance. Solo bagpipers and the pipe and drum corps also compete, so the sound of their instruments permeates the air. At various times, they parade around the track giving a wonderful display of precision marching in full-dress uniforms. 

I stayed in nearby Banner Elk, a town with only one stop light but a surprising variety of activities and shops. One morning I enjoyed riding the Wilderness Run Alpine Coaster through the woods. I recommend Stonewalls Restaurant for an incredibly delicious steak dinner and Grandfather Vineyard Winery for a fine wine tasting. The architecture at Lees-McRae College is worth a look. 

Banner Elk is a seven-hour drive from Jacksonville. 

BannerElk.com, Highland Games Info: gmhg.org

Visit www.bylandersea.com to read more of local travel writer Debi Lander’s stories and travel tips.

Photos courtesy Debi Lander
Bagpipers parade around the track.