Inside Shan Future 2024: Keeping Sustainability On China’s Agenda

Interest in China’s sustainability sector continues to grow. Industry pioneer Shaway Yeh held her annual Shan Future forum on October 12. Bringing together experts, scholars, and leaders from the global fashion industry, it set the agenda for eco-cultures during Shanghai Fashion Week.

“Every edition, we advance the direction of sustainability fashion discourse in China,” Yeh, who was the former editorial director of Modern Weekly and international creative director of its parent company, explained. This season, topics like alternative prosperity beyond growth, a planet-positive fashion system rooted in ecological frontiers, an ESG-driven supply chain, and material innovations and insights from the Global South were forensically analyzed at the event.

According to Yeh, the challenging topics, models, and perspectives have helped rethink the idea of sustainable development. “We are learning from the frontier and always looking to the latest practices in material research or digital technologies for circularity and carbon neutrality to see how we can propel our sector,” she stated. Yeh founded her consultancy Yehyehyeh in 2017 and counts LVMH, Global Fashion Agenda, Green Carpet Fashion Awards, and Kering among its partners.

The event drew 400 on-site guests and had more than 52,000 viewers participating via livestream. Guests heard renowned economist Kate Raworth, who introduced her “Doughnut Economics” model, which was then discussed by Andrew Wu, the LVMH Group President of Greater China, and Professor Zhu Dajian, Director of the Institute of Sustainable Development and Management at Tongji University. During the discussion, Wu stressed that the ESG conversation must “shift from focusing on things to concentrating on actions—ultimately centering on people.” He also emphasized the role of the younger generation in future development.

Tana Dai, General Manager of cashmere conglomerate Erdos Group, spoke from the perspective of adopting new technologies and long-term corporate growth, urging companies to take a “constructive, long-term outlook towards these changes.” Another local fashion group, Hanghzhou-based JNBY, contributed. The sustainable fabric R&D specialist Rong Xijie from the company outlined its efforts in Yak production; these include launching the world’s first farm animal requirements standard for yaks.

Another highlight included an address from Iris Ruisch, the director of the State of Fashion—which showcases alternatives to the current system. Her presentation explored solutions that can contribute to a better world; a selection of projects from the State of Fashion Biennale were also showcased at the venue.

The role of design and community was pivotal in the conversation. Earlier this year, Yehyehyeh launched Sustasia Fashion Prize, a pan-Asian sustainable innovation fashion award. Open to young designers (between the ages of 18 and 40) with a minimum of 3 years in business, it was launched in August with the non-profit organization Shanghai Fashion Designers Association—founded by Lv Xiaolei.

Lv, who acts as the secretary general of the Shanghai Fashion Week organizing committee, discussed the topic of young designers from the Asia region with the CEO of Jakarta Fashion Week Svida Ailsjahbana. Both agreed that Asia holds vast development potential in this segment.

The next step, they agreed, is strengthening interaction and collaboration between the regions such as initiatives like the Sustasia Fashion Prize. The online application period for the prize closes on October 31. The 8 finalists from across Asia will be announced in mid-November with the final presentation, exhibition, and award ceremony in March 2025 during the next instalment of Shanghai Fashion Week.

Until then Yeh is optimistic. “From the economic model to the creative community, the forum has covered the spectrum of sustainability today. I hope everyone can find inspiration and enrich the practice of sustainability.”

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