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There’s no better time than Diwali for Indian fashion to take centre stage

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4 weeks ago

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There’s no better time than Diwali for Indian fashion to take centre stage

Like many South Asians, I’m not alone in anticipating Diwali every Autumn. Diwali, also known as the Indian festival of lights, brings with it stock memories: clay candles and marigolds dotted around my grandmother’s house, nights filled with Bollywood music and bursts of fireworks and mounds of jewellery borrowed from my mother’s cupboard. Growing up, I counted the days down every year, and this hasn’t changed.

The festival, a time symbolizing the victory of good over evil, quite literally seeps into homes and onto streets, both in India and within the expansive South Asian diaspora. And it’s not only families and homes marking the occasion, which this year falls between October 31 and November 1. For the last few years, the fashion industry has been celebrating too. And with good reason.

This Diwali season, Indian fashion has taken centre stage once again, with renewed fascination and a fresh eye turned towards rental and sustainable style. The growing global significance of Indian fashion is undeniable and there are countless examples. Dior hosted its Autumn/Winter 2023 show at the Gateway of India in Mumbai. Major Indian designers like Manish Malhotra and Sabyasachi Mukherjee have opened flagship stores in New York City and Dubai. H&M has collaborated with Indian designer Anamika Khanna. This year, India’s apparel market was projected to reach over £81 billion in value, up from around £45.7 billion in 2022, as estimated by McKinsey.

“There is no better time than Diwali for Indian fashion to take centre stage”

Closer to home, my Instagram feed over the last month has been covered with the intersection of Diwali and the global fashion industry. There have been lavish parties, including rental platform By Rotation’s glitzy Mayfair celebration, and numerous brand collaborations. Christian Louboutin unveiled his Diwali capsule collection, in an homage to Indian fabrics and textiles. In another adorable venture, Mattel enlisted Indian designer Anita Dongre to design a special Diwali Barbie, representing the modern Indian girl. It’s been nothing short of affirming, really, to see South Asian talent be recognised both globally and back home. I’ve tried to champion this talent in my work – and being able to share that is certainly a privilege.

In all of this, it’s hard to not mention the evolution of Indian fashion itself. Thanks to the rise of rental platforms, growing markets, and social media, Indian dressing has taken on new life and form. There is possibly no better time than Diwali, when family and friends gather for a sleet of seemingly endless parties, to explore this.

Rental platforms open the doors

Luxury Indian fashion, poised for even greater expansion, has long been at the centre of celebrations like weddings and Diwali. These outfits haven’t always been affordable, though. “Traditionally, high-quality lehengas and Indian wedding outfits come with a large price tag, making them inaccessible for many,” says Eshita Kabra-Davies, founder and CEO of By Rotation and herself an Indian woman. Now, digital fashion platforms like By Rotation and pre-loved marketplace Circular Threads (specifically for South Asian fashion) are opening these doors.

“Rental platforms are democratising access to South Asian fashion, opening up a world of designers”

The collections on these digital platforms oscillate between the traditional and the contemporary, from sequined black saris, luxe fuschia lehengas, and pearl-encrusted blouses. And the demand for such options has spiked: By Rotation reports searches for “lehengas” have increased by 1060% in the last year alone.

“By offering these garments for rent, we’re opening up the world of designers like Gaurav Gupta, Manish Malhotra, Payal Singhal and even Sabyasachi to a wider audience,” Kabra-Davies says. “We’re democratising access to South Asian fashion, giving people access to these beautiful, haute couture pieces without the commitment of ownership.”

Fashion and beauty influencer Jully Patel agrees that the market for Indian rental fashion has ballooned, with her followers asking “on the daily” about renting authentic South Asian pieces like shararas and saris. “I feel like people are looking for the pieces that are newer or more expensive to get. [Renting] is a great option,” she says.

In the same vein, London-based lifestyle creator Natalia Aroraa says that rental services have made shopping for occasions like Diwali “seamless” and have also opened conversations about consuming high fashion sustainably, particularly when it comes to elaborate Indian wear.

“These pieces are intricate, they’re hand-embroidered, they take hours to make,” she says. “Why would you only wear them once and keep them at the back of your closet? It’s nice to be able to be sustainable. And at the end of the day, you’re still honouring the brand.”

This was Kabra-Davies’ intention with her renting empire. “Renting is a perfect solution for special occasions where the focus is on making a statement, but with a lighter environmental impact. It’s especially meaningful during festive seasons like Diwali when people want to experiment with fashion and celebrate their culture,” she says.

Merging the traditional with the creative

There are visible efforts to be sustainable with Indian wear. At the same time, Indians — and the wider South Asian community are blending the spirit of Diwali – a celebration of light and hope – into their wardrobe choices. Think: glitter-infused lehengas, intricately embellished saris and a plethora of jewellery. Light and colour are as centric to Diwali outfits as they are to the festival itself. This is reflected in the aesthetics of Diwali party-goers.

Influencers propose a creative approach to contemporary Indian wear, one that brings together patterns, colours and even glamour. Aroraa suggests “fusion fashion” this season, such as “stitched saris or Desi pants with a corset top.” She adds that it’s all about “re-wearing pieces” and amalgamating styles.

“I style traditional lehengas with contemporary crop tops, or layer festival prints together,” she says. “It’s very different, vibrant and fun now. You can still make a statement without losing that traditional touch.”

There’s a consensus on this approach. Seerat Saini, a beauty and lifestyle creator, also applies a contemporary lens to South Asian clothing, saying that “repurposing” both archival pieces and everyday wear from her closet has resulted in creative ensembles. “Indo-western can be so playful and can be whatever you want to make of it. There aren’t any rules anymore,” she says.

Patel, too, blends Indian wear with what she refers to as “cool-girl chic.” She says it’s becoming easier to find “practical, comfortable” pieces while staying close to the roots of South Asian style. She names designers like Mahima Mahajan, Anamika Khanna and Manish Malhotra, each catering to various aesthetics from minimalism to full-blown glamour.

The synthesis of traditional and modern modes of dressing, when it comes to Indian wear, isn’t exactly new. But with the emergence of luxury rental, preloved pieces and creator influence, fresh ideas have emerged. Repurposing and reinventing wardrobe staples. Dressing consciously. Giving visibility to the talent of South Asian designers. In essence: conscious, joyful fashion is the way to go this Diwali season.

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