The Dreamer Behind Phème Paris: Jessy Chu on Fashion, Freedom, and Finding Her Voice

Possessed of a uniquely Parisian sensibility, Phème Paris is a brand for leading ladies who seize control of their destiny and revel under the spotlight. Founded by the vivacious Jessy Chu, who profoundly weaves personal narratives and Chinese-inspired details into every collection, Phème combines an unapologetic “It Girl” attitude with effortless sophistication and sharp vision.  November 1st marks the launch of the brand’s Winter 2024 collection, a dreamy celebration of Chinoiserie that brings unexpected cheer to chilly days and has been described by the designer as “blurring the lines between dream and reality.”  With anticipation building for this release, Chu sat down with Rain for an exclusive interview to discuss her journey in fashion thus far and how she so eloquently captures the essence of the French capital.

What initially inspired you to found Phème? How have your previous experiences in the fashion industry informed your journey as a designer?

I’ve been immersed in the fashion industry for quite some time, and at 26, I became a mother. While my friends were still single, enjoying carefree days of gossip and dating, I found myself feeling isolated—living in a foreign country, with no one to turn to. Everything was new, and I was suddenly carrying the greatest responsibilities of my life. It was overwhelming, almost suffocating.

Those years, I had imagined, would be full of dancing, dressing up, and reveling in life’s pleasures. Instead, I became known as ‘Mrs. So-and-so’ or ‘Jolyn’s mom,’ and I felt my sense of identity slipping away.

It was during this transformative period that I decided to create Phème, inspired by the Greek goddess of gossip. I wanted to empower every woman, regardless of age or circumstance, to feel seen, heard, and at her absolute best. To relish in the spotlight, to be the center of attention, as we all deserve to be.

Paris is an integral part of the Phème brand and what it represents. What does the city mean to you? How is this reflected in your designs?

Paris has always been where my romantic side truly comes alive. Coming from Asia, where things are more structured, with clear rules and emotions often kept beneath the surface, Paris offered me a new freedom—to express my feelings and embrace my individuality. Here, there’s an openness that I love. For instance, if you’re a divorced mother dating someone ten years younger, no one raises an eyebrow. Or if you’re having a rough day, instead of saying ‘I’m fine,’ you can just be honest. Do you see what I mean?

At Phème, I carry that spirit of freedom into my designs. I love being adventurous with fabrics—combining different techniques and pushing the boundaries of sensuality. There’s always a bold use of prints and colors in each piece, but with a disciplined approach to tailoring, ensuring every design enhances the body’s natural silhouette.

How does your Taiwanese background influence the Phème aesthetic?

I began my career as a writer, contributing to many renowned magazines and newspapers, and even publishing my own book. When it comes to designing, I approach it much like writing—I first imagine a woman, almost like creating a character in a story. I grew up immersed in Chinese poetry, literature, and traditional prints, so if you look at my collections, while the designs have a distinctly French aesthetic, the prints are often inspired by Asia.

As I mentioned before, the culture I come from is quite strict in many ways, and that discipline carries over to my approach in design. Even for a simple dress, I make sure the cut flatters the human body. Our dresses are never too long because what looks great on the runway often doesn’t suit real-life proportions.

Who is Constance (the protagonist of the Fall 2024 collection)? 

Constance is actually my daughter’s name; I thought she’d love to be a part of this. For this collection, I envisioned a woman who may not have grown up in Paris but dreams of working in the fashion industry, driven by her passion and ambition. I believe it takes incredible luck to work in an industry you love without becoming a slave to reality.

This collection is her wardrobe. It has everything she needs—to look professional and chic at work, to feel comfortable and confident in her daily life, and to be absolutely stunning on a date. She is bold, elegant, fun, and sophisticated, all at once. This Fall spirit of empowered femininity evolves naturally into our Winter 2024 collection, where we take Constance’s confident persona into a more ethereal realm.

I am in love with the Winter 2024 campaign; it truly captured both Parisian chic and the quiet aristocratic elegance of a French estate. Can you tell me about the inspiration for the shoot?

Thank you for appreciating this collection. The central theme is a modern Sleeping Beauty. I envisioned a woman with a kind of magic that shields her from the ordinary world. She lives in the heart of Paris, often found in the city’s hidden gardens, with the streets as her runway and moonlight as her spotlight. Her beauty transcends time—not just in her dreams, but in the way she moves through a world that’s finally ready for her.

This collection is more than just clothing—it’s a spell that blurs the line between dream and reality. You’ll find many floral prints, such as the long satin dress adorned with Chinese peony prints, which is considered one of the most seductive flowers in Chinese culture. There are also roses, gardenias, and fabrics with a touch of sparkle—like a print top with puffy princess sleeves. These elements embody the essentials of a modern princess, but this time, there’s no prince involved. The journey has always been about us, hasn’t it? Alone with ourselves.