Potential first spouses’ fashion diplomacy

As coverage of the 2024 presidential election reaches a peak, more attention than typical falls on the potential first spouses. At a thrilling time when analysts, voters and the media are examining every tweet and public appearance, now is an opportune time to dissect another topic of great importance: style. According to the Social Science Research Network, 65% of people are visual learners. Therefore, how we communicate and gather information weighs heavily on appearance. Making a welcoming, presentable first impression to the public and other politicians is key to cementing many political relations.

Either the Republican Party candidate Donald Trump’s wife, Melania Trump, or the Democratic Party candidate Kamala Harris’ husband, Doug Emhoff, are set to be the leading first spouse of the United States of America. If the former wins, Melania Trump, who has fabricated well-known political fashion statements in this role (such as adorning a happy floral print while visiting a violently protest-ridden India in 2020) will play into themes of opulence and luxury. If the latter wins, Emhoff, who has previously made history as our nation’s first second gentleman, will continue to break barriers by becoming the first First Gentleman, bringing his relatable, everyday style with him. Gender and appearance are inextricably linked, and along with that, a harsh double standard for fashion is prominent. This follows into the political sphere, where women’s outfits are covered much more than men’s. 

Melania Trump’s reign as First Lady from 2016-2020 was heavily inspired by former first ladies Nancy Reagan and Jackie Kennedy. Her conservative style included knee-length pencil skirts and traditional feminine silhouettes. None of her expensive outfits are particularly gaudy or outrageous; Melania Trump exudes quiet luxury. Taking insight from these figures accentuates the main principles of the Republican Party: traditional outlooks that look back to the past, patriotism regarding iconic, well-loved American women and family-friendly displays. Former First Lady Michelle Obama would often mix high-end and generic brands, but Melania Trump strictly sticks to luxury, principally due to differences in their intended public images. While Obama wanted to foster relatability, Melania Trump wanted to replicate high-class sentiments.

But Melania Trump has not always exclusively engaged in conservative fashion. Amid a recent scandal involving the resurfacing of her nude modeling pictures, Melania Trump’s modeling career is back in the public eye.

In a video posted to X, Melania Trump asked: “Why do I stand proudly behind my nude modeling work? The more pressing question is: Why has the media chosen to scrutinize my celebration of the human form in a fashion photo shoot?”

For subscribers of the Republican Party’s conservatism, Melania Trump’s past is extremely shocking and sinister. While Conservatives advocate for heterosexual gender norms within fashion, supporting the notion that women should dress in feminine ways, there are onerous restrictions concerning what parts of a woman’s body should be praised and advertised. Historically, Republican women have been stuck in a style rotation that only affords them enough room to be just the right amount of feminine that is acceptable. Although off-putting idolatry and weird hyper-Americana eccentricities have begun to plague Trump’s Republican Party, some standards of modesty still remain rooted in this party’s fashion standards.

Let’s take a step back for a moment. As a model, Melania Trump is very well-versed in the fashion world. She knows where to shop from and what story each brand tells. When Melania Trump shops couture, she shops from old, well-known houses. Her traditional and classy approach to fashion, from Louboutins to Dior, exemplifies this.

Choosing to highlight a “celebration of the human form” holds some truth; her feminine physique is always outlined in all of her pieces. Baggy and oversized do not exist in Melania Trump’s style vocabulary. There are contradictory elements to her claim and the practice of her style, as shown by her covered-up trench coats and hidden collarbones.

On the other hand, Emhoff, like most men in the political sphere, dresses rather plainly. With neutral-colored clothing and basic suits, nothing stands out. However, his 30-year career as an entertainment lawyer in Los Angeles has situated him firmly within Hollywood and the broader California entertainment industry. Although he has not fine-tuned his fashion diplomacy, he is not necessarily unfamiliar with it. Additionally, his daughter, Ella Emhoff, an aspiring fashion designer, signed with IMG Models in 2021. Once again, the former second gentleman has deep indirect ties with the fashion world. Perhaps a promotion will motivate Emhoff to invest in fashion messaging.

Style sends a message to the people. Melania Trump only wears conservative, luxury pieces. If anything, this is a proclamation of both seclusion and elevation. Emhoff’s simplistic style, even if he’s wearing Ralph Lauren suits, resonates with Americans more. He has the kind of unassuming style modestly situated people often gravitate toward if given the option to shop from pricey designer brands. Melania Trump is seen as classy and stylish and Emhoff is seen as trustworthy and relatable. 

There is also a matter of international diplomacy. Previous first ladies would strive to wear mainly American brands, but Melania Trump typically wears ensembles from international designers. First ladies typically practice political diplomacy by wearing clothes from the country they interact with a precedent that Melania Trump has neglected. She keeps her looks predictable and not fluid. 

While Melania Trump has dozens of former first ladies to take style inspiration from, Emhoff is forced to blaze a trail. It can be daunting for someone who has never had to put much thought into their outfits to suddenly find themselves in a role where even the smallest things from suit cut to tie color can have an abundance of meaning. Men are not held to the same societal pressure of agonizing over their outfits as their female counterparts. Women do not have an acceptable default option like a simple suit; their outfits are endlessly scrutinized by the public, and they are constantly mandated to dress to impress. 

In her book “Becoming,” Michelle explains, “It seemed that my clothes mattered more to people than anything I had to say.”

Although Michelle Obama was not the president herself, she ran various campaigns and programs as first lady, from aiming to prevent childhood obesity to fighting for service members and their families. There is a double standard regarding what roles women are thought to be performing. 

When Donald Trump faced the onset of a boiling scandal involving relations with an adult film star in 2018, the couple was not seen together for a while. During former President Trump’s State of the Union address, Melania broke tradition by partaking in the short car ride to the event with the guests she invited instead of her husband. When she emerged from the vehicle, she was dressed in an off-white Dior pantsuit and a Dolce and Gabbana white blouse. All white is associated with the suffragette movement, and many speculated this was a response to her husband’s affair. This strikes as a bit of a reach, but if she was unable to make a public statement or response, then kudos to her styling team for such out-of-the-box thinking. There were additional suggestions that her all-white outfit could have been in opposition to the #MeToo movement’s all-black attire trend. This theory seems wild; it is difficult to believe that a quiet, reserved political figure like Melania Trump would so blatantly oppose a controversial movement, even subtlety through fashion. While her husband was embroiled in scandal, Melania had to encounter scrutiny over the very color of her clothing.

What does it mean to have a first gentleman? The symbolic role of the First Lady would pass to a man, marking a shift in American gender roles. We could see a man become highly probed over his choice of style for once. It is unlikely that a full swap of traditional gender roles will happen, but this small change could create waves for the future. While I doubt our nation will start to look towards Emhoff for the latest updates of the season, it is certainly a start in dismantling preconceived notions of fashion standards and expectations. 

Daily Arts Writer Tara Wasik can be reached at tarawas@umich.edu.

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