British Fashion’s Creative Class Of 2024

And yet, the future – while uncertain, at best – still looks bright. As this issue goes to press, the industry is preparing for London Fashion Week, which, despite the myriad of challenges, offers a jam-packed schedule, mostly filled with next-generation designers at the start of their careers, powered by creativity and hope.

For most of the London Fashion Week roster, there’s so much more to the event than sending clothes down the catwalk: it’s a chance to explore society, culture and identity; to speak about wider global issues; to challenge consumers and the industry at large to think deeper, see a different perspective, and do better.

Take Sinéad O’Dwyer, who is rallying against luxury’s traditionally narrow body ideals by catering to a vast spectrum of shapes and sizes, or Tolu Coker, who uses fashion as a tool to comment on political and social issues. Steven Stokey-Daley turns ideas of class culture and elitism on their heads, while Labrum’s Foday Dumbuya is reframing the conversation around immigrants in the West, and Harris Reed is rewriting the rules of clothes and gender norms. Sustainability, too, is considered table stakes for the next generation of design talent. Upcycling deadstock and discarded fabrics is baked into their business models from the get-go.

Ultimately, British-based creative talent is still at the forefront of innovation. It was the case years ago – when a young Stella McCartney was championing sustainability in the luxury sphere, or when Vivienne Westwood and Katharine Hamnett were pushing for nuclear disarmament and fighting climate change – and is still the case now.

‘[They] disrupt the status quo, and set new, community-focused standards for the industry,’ says Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council. ‘This bold, trailblazing approach captures the spirit of British design, rooted in authenticity and idealism, with designers unafraid to challenge norms.’

This is part of what makes the scene so vibrant. It’s no wonder that global brands continue to look to the UK for fresh ideas and to source top talent to lead their teams. The examples are endless: Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo, Clare Waight Keller at Uniqlo, Louise Trotter at Carven, Sarah Burton at Givenchy, Harris Reed at Nina Ricci and David Koma at Blumarine.

Rush also points out that London is home to some of the top fashion and art schools. This, along with leading incubator support systems, such as the BFC’s NewGen scheme and Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East programme, attracts talent from around the world. It creates a ‘vibrant hub for creativity and innovation’, Rush says. ‘With its diverse cultural landscape, [London] fosters an environment where varied experiences and creative perspectives thrive.’

For our 2024 ELLE Style Awards, we have decided to spotlight London-based designers helming British brands, celebrating their contributions to the UK fashion industry. At a time when commercial demands and sales targets are dictating the sector more than ever, we want to applaud their commitment to experimentation and creativity, because, after all, that’s what fashion is all about.

Saul Nash

Nash’s universe sits between the worlds of dance and fashion. His background as a dancer underpins his approach to clothes, and he often presents his technical, sportswear-influenced pieces with self-choreographed catwalk shows. He also works as a movement director, collaborating with singer Shygirl and editor Ib Kamara.

Simone Rocha

Since launching her label in 2010, the Dublin native has garnered a cult following for her brand of subversive femininity, which marries rebellion and romanticism. In January, she made her couture debut as a guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier, while her Rizzoli monograph – with contributions from Cindy Sherman, Petra Collins and Tim Blanks – is set to hit bookshops this autumn.

Daniel Lee

After cutting his teeth under Phoebe Philo as ready-to-wear director of Celine, Bradford-born Lee was catapulted to fashion stardom when he spearheaded a new era at Italian label Bottega Veneta. Now at Burberry, he’s driving a return to the brand’s British roots and staging blockbuster shows during London Fashion Week with a host of iconic Brit supermodels, old and new.

Roksanda Ilinčić

Ilinčić’s architectural design background and love of contemporary art shine through in her creations, which are distinctive for their bold colour palettes and sculptural shapes. Last year, King Charles honoured the designer in his debut birthday list for her for service to the fashion industry.

Martine Rose

With her exaggerated silhouettes and directional blend of streetwear and suiting, Rose has emerged as one of the most influential voices in the menswear space, and beyond. For SS25, she was invited to show as the guest designer at the renowned Florence menswear showcase Pitti Uomo.

Erdem Moralıoğlu

The Canadian-born designer’s Erdem label has been a staple of the London Fashion Week calendar for almost 20 years. His fanbase continues to grow through collaborations with Barbour, a residency at Chatsworth House and his carefully researched narratives that spotlight the stories of women.

Molly Goddard

Goddard’s sharply defined aesthetic is easily recognisable for its instant impact: working in a palette of vibrant colours – and plenty of pinks – she manipulates fabrics such as tulle and taffeta, using smocking and shirring techniques to create volume and wow factor in equal measure.

Emilia Wickstead

After starting out as a made-to-measure atelier, Wickstead evolved her label into a go-to for A-listers and royalty alike. Her original style – ladylike elegance with a modern twist – now extends to include bridal, homeware and a collaboration with heritage shoe label Grenson.

Dilara Fındıkoğlu

The British Turkish designer made waves with her macabre-tinted brand of gothic romanticism right after graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2015, attracting FKA Twigs, Lady Gaga and Madonna as fans. She uses fashion to provide commentary on religion and politics, her fresh point of view landing her a hot collaboration with Heaven by Marc Jacobs, fronted by Gigi Hadid.

Jonathan Anderson

The Northern Irish designer has gone from strength to strength this year, between his stand out Loewe and JW Anderson shows; viral campaigns; work costuming the acclaimed Challengers; and inclusion on Time’s list of the ‘100 Most Influential People’. Next up, his designs will star in another Luca Guadagnino project, the hotly anticipated Queer, for which he designed the costumes.

Conner Ives

The New York expat dressed Adwoa Aboah for the Met Gala and landed a gig working for Rihanna’s now-closed Fenty label – all while he was still in fashion school. His brand, known for its Americana-inflected designs made from spliced up vintage tees, old piano shawls and carefully sourced deadstock, is a hot must-have among the fashion set.

Emma Chopova And Laura Lowena

The Deptford-based design duo’s Chopova Lowena brand quickly gained fans for its punk-meets-kitsch, folkloric designs and its signature carabiner-clip skirts – and for dressing Olivia Dean for her Glastonbury Pyramid Stage debut this year. They recycle old textiles, such as pillows and aprons, using traditional crafting techniques, often collaborating with skilled Bulgarian female artisans.

Priya Ahluwalia

Ahluwalia’s richly colourful designs are heavily influenced by both her Indian Nigerian heritage and her London upbringing. Her sustainably minded label often uses vintage materials and deadstock, as she leverages upcycling techniques, such as patchworking, to breathe new life into old clothes.

Bianca Saunders

The menswear designer is the first Black woman to win the prestigious Andam fashion prize. Saunders has a knack for playing with proportions, subverting tradition to propose an alternative vision of masculinity, while weaving references to her British upbringing and Jamaican heritage throughout. Her label is continuing to capture attention; she launched a footwear line this year.

Marco Capaldo

With his label 16Arlington, the young designer brings a healthy dose of sex and sizzle to London Fashion Week, blending glamour and femininity with a mischievous, cool-girl edge. His clothes are all about making women feel like the best version of themselves – and Jorja Smith, Alva Claire and Paloma Elsesser are among the brand’s super fans.

Nensi Dojaka

Shortly after starting her brand, Dojaka scooped up the prestigious LVMH fashion prize and had A-listers from Bella Hadid to Zendaya scrambling to wear her creations. Her sensual, lingerie-centred pieces have become firm staples on the red carpet and beyond. In September, she made a buzzy return to the London Fashion Week calendar after a two-season break.

Victoria Beckham

The pop star turned designer unveiled her namesake brand in 2008 with a plan to create elevated pieces that form a foundation for the modern luxury wardrobe. Recent expansions into bags and beauty have been hugely successful, and her collaboration with high-street favourite Mango was an instant hit.

Rejina Pyo

Born and bred in South Korea, London-based Pyo is known for her sculptural yet wearable designs inspired by different art forms, such as painting and sculpture. Now, she’s been enlisted by Mulberry to design a capsule line of bags, jewellery and ready-to-wear.

Feben

The Ethiopian designer grew up in Sweden before launching her brand in London after graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2020, when Beyoncé swiftly commissioned her to create a look for the Renaissance tour. Her surrealist creations take inspiration from all over the world, combining optical illusions with vibrant colours to create an alternative feminine look.

Sinéad O’dwyer

With her label, O’Dwyer rallies against the luxury industry’s traditional definition of ‘sample size’, aiming to shake up the status quo by celebrating – and designing for – a broad spectrum of bodies, and challenging her peers to do the same. She uses inventive techniques to create garments that champion her core values of empowerment and inclusivity.

Tolu Coker

The Nigerian British designer and multidisciplinary artist launched her label in 2018, using it as a platform to highlight societal issues and push for broader change. Her work centres on community, identity politics and sustainability, extending beyond fashion to include other art forms – illustrations,

documentaries and fashion films.

Richard Quinn

The Londoner founded his brand after stints at Christian Dior and on Savile Row, and made headlines when the late Queen Elizabeth sat front row at his London Fashion Week debut. Quinn, whose creations are known for their bold floral prints and striking silhouettes, brings a couture flair to the line-up. Max Mara’s Max&Co is the latest label to enlist his talents as a collaborator.

Foday Dumbuya

Sierra Leone-born Dumbuya founded his label Labrum in 2014, using fashion to unite West African and Western culture, his sharp, celebratory menswear tailoring paying homage to the rich, untold stories of his heritage. Not only was he behind the Sierra Leonean Olympic uniform this summer, he was also tapped by Arsenal to create its 2024/25 away kit.

Chet Lo

Pushing the boundaries of knitwear, the Asian American designer experiments with imaginative techniques and bold colours to create a futuristic, instantly recognisable aesthetic. Lo’s fans include Dua Lipa, Doja Cat and former ELLE cover star Raye.

Jawara Alleyne

Alleyne, who originally hails from Jamaica and the Cayman Islands, is the designer of choice for pop royalty: Tems, Jorja Smith and Kelela all wear his designs, while Rihanna (no less) hailed him as her ‘favourite new designer’ in an April interview. In addition to running his namesake brand, he also lectures at Central Saint Martins.

Grace Wales Bonner

Wales Bonner’s sharp designs have reshaped the men’s fashion landscape, leading to a Dior collaboration, an expansion into womenswear, and a line with Adidas. Her vision of ‘cultural luxury’, exemplified in her striking campaigns – including her AW24 visuals, starring Solange Knowles – often draws on her British Jamaican heritage to explore themes of identity.

Craig Green

Green launched his label in 2012, straight after graduation, quickly gaining critical acclaim for his collections, which are rooted in concepts of functionality, utility and emotion. After a two-year hiatus, he made a highly anticipated return to the runway in June, hosting an intimate show at his Docklands studio.

Steven Stokey-Daley

With his label SS Daley, Liverpudlian Stokey-Daley is challenging traditional ideas around British heritage, exploring tropes of the UK’s social-class culture through clothing and uniforms. His unique work won him the prestigious LVMH fashion prize in 2022, as well as high-profile supporters including Harry Styles – who joined the brand in an official capacity as an investor this year.

Charlotte Knowles And Alexandre Arsenault

The duo behind Knwls met while studying at Central Saint Martins, and launched their brand in 2017. Offering a gritty take on womenswear – sensual, with a distinctly grunge edge – the brand’s experimental silhouettes have been worn by the Hadid sisters, Ciara and a fellow Knowles, Solange.

Seán Mcgirr

The Irish national worked at Dries Van Noten and Burberry before becoming head of ready-to-wear at JW Anderson. He debuted as Alexander McQueen’s creative director this year, the collection inspired by founder Lee McQueen’s spring 1995 show ‘The Birds’.

Harris Reed

Empowerment is at the heart of Reed’s brand, which challenges gender norms with its flamboyant ‘demi-couture’ creations. Reed, who is also creative director of Nina Ricci, has dressed Beyoncé and Harry Styles, and recently created a look worn by Lily Collins in the latest season of Emily in Paris.

Phoebe Philo

After a six-year hiatus, the former Celine creative director finally returned to fashion with the launch of her highly anticipated own label last year, much to the delight of her dedicated legion of ‘Philophiles’. Her brand made its surprise digital-only debut last October, which incited a mass frenzy – the first drop sold out almost instantly.

Camille Perry And Holly Wright

With 35 years of industry experience between them, Perry and Wright launched their brand Tove in 2019, quickly gaining traction globally for their exquisitely tailored designs. An antidote to the fast-paced trend cycle that drives much of the fashion industry today, Tove consistently delivers minimal and flattering pieces with timeless appeal.

Michael Stewart

With his label Standing Ground, the Irish designer is putting forward a new vision for modern evening wear, serving up made-to-order red carpet looks that are clean and pared-back, yet create a major wow moment. This year, his brand was awarded the inaugural LVMH Savoir Faire Prize.

Stella McCartney

McCartney is luxury’s original sustainability trailblazer, pushing for positive change within the fashion industry since the start of her career. She continues to spearhead fashion’s environmentalist agenda today, being among the first to sell clothes made from innovative new bio-materials: cruelty-free leather alternatives made from mushrooms and apple waste.

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