How Pamela Morris Is ‘Making a Cultural, Sustainable’ Shift in Fashion With Modular Designs

Every year, U.S. consumers throw out more than 34 billion pounds of used textiles. Of that, consumers with higher incomes generate about 76 percent more clothing waste than those with lower incomes, according to Boston University’s School of Public Health. Once discarded, 66 percent of these textiles are sent to landfills to decompose (some quickly, others over hundreds of years). 

While textile waste and overconsumption may have been overlooked in the past, today’s consumers are becoming more eco-conscious about the clothing they purchase and wear, prompting the fashion industry to actively seek sustainable solutions.

One alternative, recently brought to light by Pamela Morris, chief executive officer and founder of the clothing brand Paloma St. James, is a “new paradigm” of sustainable luxury fashion known as modularity. This innovative design concept allows clothing to be reconfigured into different looks and styles, extending its lifespan in a consumer’s wardrobe.

In conversation, Morris discusses why modularity is at the core of her brand’s mission (which officially launches in the spring of 2025) and how it’s helping sustainably redefine fashion.

WWD: Starting from the top, how did you get your start in fashion? 

Pamela Morris: Fashion has always been an intrinsic part of my life for as long as I can remember. I grew up sitting at my grandmother’s feet as she hand-stitched clothing (she’d often give me scraps to make clothes for my baby dolls). I still remember learning to make a ruffle — feeling the pull of the thread and the magic in my eyes as the fabric transformed.

My memories also include admiring my mother’s timeless wardrobe, especially a floral silk matching skirt set by Adrienne Vittadini. I must have spent hours examining it, trying to understand how a single outfit could feel so elegant and alive. That’s when I realized the connection between what we wear and how we present ourselves to the world.

That curiosity set me on a journey to explore fashion in both its artistic and technical forms. After earning a degree in art from the University of Georgia and honing my craft with a newly launched certificate program from Parsons, I wanted to go deeper. That’s when [I decided] to travel to Milan for a pattern-making class, to Jaipur for block printing, to Mumbai for beadwork and embroidery, to Vietnam for silk-making, to Peru for cotton sourcing and to Argentina for leatherwork. Along the way, I supplemented my learning with “YouTube University” and courses on Coursera.

This blend of art, technical mastery and cultural appreciation has shaped my approach to fashion.

WWD: What year did you launch Paloma St. James, and what industry need inspired you to create the brand?

P.M.: I launched Paloma St. James in 2013 with a desire to challenge the norms of the luxury fashion industry. We began by creating washable workwear for women, focusing on impeccably designed pieces that bridged the gap between sustainability and luxury — two concepts often seen as mutually exclusive.

In 2021, we took a bold step forward, relaunching Paloma St. James as the first luxury brand to introduce a complete modular clothing line. This evolution was inspired by a growing demand for versatility and functionality in fashion.

My mission is to drive a cultural shift in fashion by creating an eternal wardrobe through modular design. The difference between clothing design and fashion design is vast, though they may appear similar. Clothing design is created without reference to culture, whereas fashion design defines, refines or interprets culture in a way that changes the atmosphere.

With modularity at the heart of our relaunch, we’ve pioneered designs that allow individuals to create multiple looks from fewer pieces, championing the idea of doing more with less. This approach aligns with sustainable practices and redefines luxury by prioritizing timelessness, functionality and personal expression.

WWD: Why is sustainability such a core part of your brand’s ethos and your personal beliefs?

P.M.: Sustainability is deeply personal to me, rooted in both my upbringing and my values as a designer. As a woman of color, I grew up in a culture where sustainability was second nature — doing more with less wasn’t a choice; it was a way of life. This ingrained resourcefulness taught me to appreciate efficiency, quality and intentionality. From an early age, I learned to value pieces that lasted and could be reimagined, a mindset that now shapes my approach to luxury modular fashion.

To me, sustainability is a responsibility — one that goes beyond environmental impact to ensuring a better future for generations to come. I believe that luxury and sustainability can — and should — coexist. Through Paloma St. James, my goal is to redefine luxury by creating garments that are timeless, versatile and thoughtfully crafted to minimize waste while maximizing value.

WWD: How do you approach sourcing materials? Are there specific practices or partnerships you rely on to ensure your materials align with your ethical and environmental standards?                           

P.M.: I believe that small is always better. There’s an innate sustainability in a company that cannot mass produce. That said, when sourcing materials I seek out family-owned businesses that are generational, where craftsmanship and pride are at the heart of what they do. I intentionally steer clear of hyper-capitalism, focusing instead on supporting makers who value quality over quantity.

This approach has led me, often by accident, to some of the finest fabrics in the world. Many of these sources are not commercially known, but a few produce small batches for renowned fashion houses. By prioritizing these traits in my collaborations, I’m able to uphold a commitment to authenticity, sustainability and unparalleled craftsmanship.

WWD: In a recent blog post, you mentioned that modularity is the key to sustainability. Can you elaborate on how this approach can contribute to a more sustainable fashion industry? 

P.M.: Modularity directly addresses some of the most pressing issues in the fashion industry: Overproduction, waste and the endless cycle of overconsumption. Modularity offers a practical, forward-thinking solution by reimagining how clothing is designed, produced and worn.

For example, a single modular garment can transform into multiple looks through interchangeable, attachable or detachable elements. A modular dress with removable sleeves or layers can effortlessly shift from a casual daytime outfit to an elegant evening ensemble. This reduces the need for multiple single-purpose garments, lowering production demands and curbing waste.

In this way, modular fashion promotes mindful consumption, minimizes production demands and curbs environmental impact. By focusing on timeless, versatile designs, modularity disrupts fast-fashion cycles, conserves resources and reduces carbon footprints.

WWD: How are you incorporating modularity into your designs, and what impact do you hope it will have on consumer behavior and the industry as a whole?

P.M.: At Paloma St. James, modularity is at the core of our designs. Each piece is thoughtfully crafted with interchangeable and multifunctional elements, allowing a single garment to be styled in countless ways. For example, a blazer might feature detachable panels, while a dress can seamlessly transform from daywear to evening elegance with a simple adjustment. This approach encourages consumers to view their wardrobe as an investment, prioritizing quality and versatility over quantity.

On a broader scale, I hope modularity inspires a shift in the industry toward more intentional production and consumption. By demonstrating how fewer, well-made garments can create endless possibilities, we aim to redefine what it means to shop, dress and live sustainably.

WWD: How can modularity help reduce or even eliminate overproduction in the fashion industry? 

P.M.: Mindset is crucial in any environment. If we can shift one mindset 100 million times, we can truly change the world as individuals.

Modularity directly tackles overproduction by promoting the idea that garments should serve multiple purposes, reducing the need for excess inventory. Instead of producing countless variations of a single item to meet diverse demands, brands can design modular pieces that evolve with the wearer’s needs. This approach, combined with responsive customer feedback and subscription services, significantly reduces fabric and garment waste.

Modularity also aligns seamlessly with a made-to-order or limited-production model, where supply is determined by consumer demand, minimizing unsold inventory. This flexibility allows manufacturers to streamline production, reduce waste and avoid the pitfalls of overstock.

It’s a step toward a more thoughtful and resource-efficient approach to fashion, addressing one of the industry’s most pressing challenges while inspiring a shift toward sustainability and intentional consumption.

WWD: Does this approach influence how brands manage inventory or respond to changing consumer demands?

P.M.: Absolutely. Modularity has the potential to revolutionize how brands manage inventory. By designing garments that cater to diverse styling preferences within a single piece, brands can move away from fast-changing trends and focus on creating timeless collections that endure.

This approach also enhances agility. For example, a modular collection can be refreshed with new elements — such as detachable collars or sleeves — without requiring a complete overhaul of the product line. This reduces waste while allowing brands to respond quickly to shifting consumer demands, all without contributing to overproduction.

WWD: There’s often a misconception that a garment can only be worn a handful of times before it feels outdated. How do you challenge this mindset through your designs, and what strategies do you use to ensure your pieces remain timeless and feel luxurious over time?

P.M.: This mindset, fueled by fast fashion and social media, is one of the biggest challenges we face. At Paloma St. James, we address this by designing timeless pieces that prioritize craftsmanship, quality and versatility. Each garment is thoughtfully created with enduring style in mind, allowing it to transcend fleeting trends.

We also strive to help customers view their wardrobe as a collection of meaningful investments rather than disposable items. For example, a modular piece can transform for different occasions, making it feel fresh and exciting with every wear. By emphasizing versatility, we encourage consumers to move away from the notion that “new equals better” and embrace the beauty of lasting design.

WWD: As we approach 2025, what is your top prediction for the future of the fashion industry? How do you think other brands can improve their efforts toward sustainability?

P.M.: It’s telling that the industry is moving toward a more exclusively inclusive environment. This generation wants to support brands that offer something for everyone, at every price point. Luxury will be redefined, with a strong focus on small brands and craftsmanship.

The future of fashion lies in a fusion of technology, craftsmanship and sustainability. Digital innovations like NFTs and AI can help brands create more personalized and efficient solutions, while traditional techniques ensure authenticity and quality.

To truly make an impact, brands must embrace transparency, reduce overproduction and focus on creating pieces with purpose. Collaboration across the supply chain will be key to achieving these goals.