Fashion
A review of spring/summer 2025 fashion shows
Though winter hasn’t yet arrived, the fashion world is already stepping ahead into Summer 2025. The leading fashion houses have presented their bold, imaginative, and sometimes surprising collections for the upcoming season, setting the tone for what will soon be trending across runways and wardrobes alike. From sheer fabrics and revealing silhouettes to oversized shapes and statement accessories, this season is all about contrasts, pushing the boundaries of convention while maintaining a nod to tradition.
After watching the shows, I’ve gathered my thoughts, impressions, and personal favourites from the standout runway presentations. These shows not only set the tone for future fashion but also highlighted the cultural, environmental, and technological influences shaping the industry.
Chanel: a masterpiece of flight and freedom
The Chanel collection was one of the most anticipated shows of the season, and it did not disappoint. Held in the iconic Grand Palais, Chanel’s creative director presented a vision of elegance, freedom, and femininity that was both classic and innovative. At the heart of the show was a massive white birdcage adorned with Chanel’s signature CC logo, symbolising themes of flight, freedom, and lightness.
The emotional peak came when Chanel ambassador Riley Keough stepped into the birdcage, dressed head-to-toe in Chanel, performing Prince’s “When Doves Cry.” This collection was about more than clothes—it captured the essence of liberation and grace. Chanel’s Summer 2025 designs struck a delicate balance between timelessness and modernity. Feather-trimmed hems, oversized collars, and tweed suits echoed both past and future. Aviator jackets, flight suits, and chiffon capes added a whimsical, ethereal quality.
What stood out was the interplay of colour and texture. While Chanel’s black-and-white palette remained, spring-ready hues—soft blues, pinks, and yellows—appeared alongside crochet, sheer fabrics, and glittering details, creating an air of lightness. The designs felt both playful and sophisticated, with bows, pastels, and traditional Chanel elements like quilted handbags and two-tone shoes. Chanel also embraced inclusivity by featuring full-figured models, proving that elegance transcends size. This celebration of diverse beauty sent a powerful message, resonating well beyond the season.
Ralph Lauren: coastal elegance meets rustic luxury
For over 50 years, Ralph Lauren has drawn inspiration from his cherished Hamptons retreat, where natural beauty meets sophisticated ease. This unique blend of rusticity and elegance has become synonymous with his brand, and it was fully on display during the show. Set against the picturesque backdrop of a horse stable, surrounded by green fields and farm stands, the collection exemplified Ralph Lauren’s enduring vision of American style.
The show unfolded like a dream, with horses grazing in the background and the sun setting over the pastoral landscape. Ralph Lauren’s collection was a celebration of timeless style, family heritage, and understated luxury. Nostalgia was woven into the designs, with fringes, lace, embroidery, and glitter adorning long silhouettes, sheer fabrics, and crochet details. Denim, a staple of American fashion, was reimagined alongside gobelin, ruffles, tied belts, and pinstripes, blending tradition with modernity.
One of the evening’s highlights was Naomi Campbell gracing the runway, embodying the timeless elegance Ralph Lauren is known for. The collection’s medley of primary colours created a visual tapestry that honoured the brand’s history while confidently looking toward the future.
Prada: the tension between control and spontaneity
In today’s digital age, where algorithms dictate much of our online experience, Prada’s collection explored the tension between structure and unpredictability. The collection presented a dialogue between the hyper-controlled world of technology and the wild, unrestrained nature of humanity. The result was a series of designs that were both futuristic and deeply rooted in the present moment.
Prada’s collection was a collision of extremes—bold primary colours, alien invasions, and exaggerated silhouettes dominated the runway. High-volume shoulders and shiny metallics were paired with asexual, body-covering designs, all punctuated by eccentric headgear and bizarre eyewear, such as pentagon-shaped sunglasses. The collection played with contradictions—hyper-revealing pieces were juxtaposed with garments that completely covered the body, creating a dynamic visual contrast.
The colour palette ranged from stark black and white to bubblegum pink and earthy browns, with bold primary colours adding a sense of playfulness. Prada’s use of texture was also noteworthy, with materials ranging from oversized studs and feathers to metal rings and scales. The result was a season that defied expectations, pushing the boundaries of fashion while reflecting the complexities of our modern, algorithm-driven world.
Chloé: the freedom collection
Chloé’s collection, aptly named the “Freedom Collection,” was a celebration of summer’s carefree spirit. Kamali, the creative force behind the collection, described her vision as a reflection of the longing for summer and the way it makes people feel. The anticipation for this collection was palpable, and Kamali did not disappoint.
The collection featured a series of ethereal designs, with guipure lace, tiered dresses, bubble skirts, and babydoll frocks that exuded a sense of romance and sensuality. Kamali’s fabrics were carefully selected to capture the essence of summer, with sun-faded colours and textures that evoked memories of lazy beach days and warm, balmy evenings.
What made this collection stand out was its attention to detail. Kamali’s show notes revealed that she envisioned the fabrics and colours as though they had spent a summer holiday of their own, and this sense of nostalgia was beautifully reflected in the designs. The collection was a masterclass in contrasts, with romantic lace and sheer fabrics juxtaposed against lingerie-inspired silhouettes in delicate shades and nude tones.
Accessories were key in the collection, with oversized bags, floral prints, and sheer layers adding whimsy and elegance. The impeccable tailoring featured well-cut jackets paired with ’70s-style trousers and intricately crocheted pieces. Kamali introduced playful wildcards like a flamingo-emblazoned swimsuit and an oversized gold shell belt, bringing a fun twist to the runway.
Balenciaga: a tribute to heritage and experimentation
Demna’s collection for Balenciaga was a deeply personal one, reflecting his own journey in the fashion world. The show, set in a dimly lit room with a sleek dining table lined with the fashion elite, was an intimate tribute to Demna’s roots and the heritage of the Balenciaga brand.
The collection paid homage to one of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s iconic signatures—the cocoon silhouette. Demna reinterpreted this classic shape with a modern edge, crafting cropped puffers and bombers that clung to the hips, while jeans were slung low, grazing wide ankles. The designs were daring and experimental, pushing the boundaries of what fashion can be.
One of the most striking elements of the collection was the way Demna played with historical references while infusing them with contemporary energy. A “Medici collar from the 17th century” was cleverly constructed as a corset integrated into the neckline, while leather bustier tops and sculptural designs brought Cristóbal’s legacy into the present.
The collection was a study in contrasts, with elements of lingerie, sheer lace, and glitter juxtaposed against bold padded shoulders, oversized denim, and parachute pants. Accessories, such as covering hats and gathered draping, added to the sculptural drama, while starched jeans stood stiff like defiant sculptures. Balenciaga’s future, it seems, is both grounded in history and fearlessly experimental.
Fiorucci: a dreamlike exploration of reality and fantasy
Fiorucci’s collection, under the creative direction of Francesca Murri, marked a new chapter for the brand. The collection was a heartfelt exploration of the intersection between reality and fantasy, creating a dreamlike atmosphere that captivated the audience.
Murri’s designs evoked a sense of playfulness and freedom, with sheer fabrics, delicate lace, and bold glitter adding a touch of whimsy to the collection. The “just got out of bed” styling was daring yet accessible, with super-short and floor-length pieces coexisting in a harmonious balance. Hot reds, light blues, and gobelin details added vibrant pops of colour, while the unisex and inclusive approach spoke to the evolving, fluid nature of modern fashion.
What made this collection truly special was its ability to reconnect the wearer with the tactile joy of physical experiences. In a world that increasingly favours the digital, Fiorucci’s high-quality garments encouraged a slower, more mindful appreciation of craftsmanship. Each piece was a statement, asking us to pause, absorb, and truly engage with what we see and feel.
Gucci: the journey of casual grandeur
Sabato De Sarno’s collection for Gucci, titled “Casual Grandeur,” was a journey through time, blending the house’s storied heritage with modern innovation. Inspired by style icon Jackie Kennedy, the collection reimagined Gucci’s iconic Bamboo handbag, originally created in 1947, with a modern twist. The sharp lines of A-line coats and structured suits reflected the brand’s commitment to timeless elegance, while bold colours and daring silhouettes brought a sense of excitement to the runway.
One of the standout moments of the show was the tribute to Studio 54, with white viscose jersey column dresses cinched by bold gold belts. These designs, reminiscent of Tom Ford’s final collection for Gucci, transported us back to the brand’s heyday, while offering a fresh, modern interpretation.
The finale showcased kimono-inspired coats in biscuit, black, and bold chartreuse double-G logo jacquards, paired with vests, jeans, and bandannas. The seamless blend of sumptuous, robe-like overcoats and beat-up denim encapsulated De Sarno’s vision of casual grandeur—a concept that felt both fresh and quintessentially Gucci.
Versace: a nostalgic ode to the ’90s with futuristic touches
Donatella Versace’s collection was a dazzling blend of nostalgia and cutting-edge technology, taking us back to the carefree spirit of the ’90s while pushing the boundaries of fashion through innovative materials and bold designs. Drawing inspiration from her iconic Spring 1997 Versus collection, Donatella tapped into the vibrancy and energy of that era, reimagining the bold prints, patterns, and silhouettes that defined the 90s fashion scene.
The show, set against the dramatic backdrop of Castello Sforzesco in Milan, bridged the gap between past and present with luxurious materials like silk, squiggly knits, and bold floral motifs, all paired with modern chainmail. The collection was a love letter to the ’90s, yet it offered so much more than simple nostalgia. There was a playfulness in the details, from perfume bottle heels to champagne glass-inspired platforms, while pastel slip dresses, distressed denim, and ultra-short shorts kept things youthful and fresh.
Perhaps the most striking element of the show was Versace’s introduction of 3D-printed clothing. A standout look was Anok Yai in a strapless gold sequin dress that had no seams—it was entirely 3D-printed. This fusion of old-school glamour with futuristic technology signals an exciting new direction for the brand, showing that while Versace may embrace its iconic past, it is also boldly looking toward the future.
Dior: sports-inspired couture meets empowerment
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Dior was a powerful reflection of modern femininity, inspired by the world of sports and themes of empowerment. After outfitting Olympic gold medalists, Chiuri further explored the connection between athleticism and couture, crafting a collection that merged function with high fashion.
The show opened with a bow-and-arrow display by artist SAGG Napoli, setting the tone for a collection focused on the strength and agility of women. Chiuri leaned heavily into sportswear-inspired silhouettes—bodysuits, track pants, and knitwear were reimagined in luxurious fabrics like moiré and silk. Bold colours, including red, black, khaki, and white, dominated the palette, while asymmetric cuts, glitter, stripes, and checks added a sense of freedom and fluidity to the designs.
Chiuri’s reinterpretation of Dior’s iconic Bar jacket in knit fabric paired with wide-leg track pants was a standout moment, blending heritage with modern ease. Accessories played a central role, with updated versions of the Lady Di and Saddle bags, and bold trainer-boot hybrids adding a functional yet chic twist to the collection.
Bottega Veneta: playful power dressing for the inner child
Matthieu Blazy’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Bottega Veneta was a celebration of childlike wonder and playfulness. With a provocative question at the heart of the show—”What would the kid in you want?”—Blazy invited us to rediscover the joy of getting dressed. The runway was a whimsical display of oversized silhouettes, hybrid half-pant-half-skirt designs, and playful accessories, such as multiple bags and pink backpacks.
The colour palette was equally playful, drawing inspiration from Richard Scarry’s vibrant world of illustrations, with bright oranges, reds, and yellows alongside subdued tones like navy and burgundy. The joy in dressing was evident in the deconstructed flannel shirts, wrinkled trenches, and bunny ear belt closures. Blazy’s collection was a reminder that fashion can be fun, even when it’s rooted in high craftsmanship and sophisticated design.
Stella McCartney: glittering streetwear with a powerful message
Stella McCartney’s Spring/Summer 2025 show kicked off with a powerful environmental message delivered by actress Helen Mirren. McCartney’s commitment to sustainability has long been a central theme of her brand, and this collection was no exception. Inspired by Jonathan Franzen’s The End of the End of the Earth, the show was a call to action, reminding us of the need to protect our planet.
The collection that followed was a dazzling mix of streetwear-inspired silhouettes, sharp tailoring, and sparkling embellishments. Pinstripe suits were given a glamorous twist with satin accents and lead-free crystals, while sporty jumpers and slouchy trousers in vegan materials kept the collection grounded in McCartney’s signature eco-conscious approach.
The show was a feast of textures, from netting and fringes to fluffy materials and oversized bags. McCartney’s playful yet polished designs reminded us that sustainability doesn’t have to come at the expense of style.
Schiaparelli: avant-garde couture for the modern heirloom
Schiaparelli’s collection celebrated couture as modern heirlooms. Creative director Daniel Roseberry aimed to create pieces that transcend trends, turning them into future vintage. Drawing from art and culture, the collection boldly explored vibrant colours and contrasting textures in the brand’s signature avant-garde style.
Zebra prints, oversized coats, and exaggerated tuxedo jackets blurred masculine and feminine boundaries, while delicate corsetry and hand-stitched embellishments added sophistication. Schiaparelli’s iconic toe shoes returned in sleek silver mules, and the Schiap bag was reimagined in bright hues, combining fun and functionality. The accessories, including the new zebra-print and distressed cotton Hobo bag, stole the show. Roseberry’s ability to craft timeless pieces while keeping the brand’s avant-garde spirit was masterful.
Balmain: a bold fusion of fashion and beauty
Olivier Rousteing’s Spring/Summer 2025 show for Balmain was a powerful fusion of fashion and beauty, marking the brand’s official entry into the luxury beauty sector. Rousteing’s collection revisited the sharp-shouldered silhouettes and intricate detailing that defined his early tenure at Balmain, while also introducing innovative beauty-inspired designs. Embroidered face imagery, crafted from pearlescent beads, adorned dresses and jackets, blurring the line between clothing and cosmetics.
This season also marked a collaboration with Estée Lauder, which was highlighted through the integration of Balmain’s Les Éternels fragrance line into the runway, appearing on oversied beauty themed prints. The perfume bottles themselves became part of the accessories, reflecting the seamless synergy between fashion and beauty.
The collection was a striking mix of feminine prints, glitter, and studs, with a bold colour palette of black, red, gold, and white. Rousteing’s ability to merge tradition with modern innovation continues to position Balmain as one of the most forward-thinking luxury brands.
Alexander McQueen: gothic roots with a modern twist
Seán McGirr’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Alexander McQueen was a gothic exploration of heritage and modernity. Inspired by the Gaelic folklore figure of the banshee, McGirr crafted a collection that combined dark, moody elements with contemporary edginess. The show was an emotional journey, tapping into themes of life, death, and transformation.
The collection featured subversive tailoring, cobweb lace, and mohair silhouettes, all of which paid homage to McQueen’s gothic roots. McGirr’s reinterpretation of these iconic elements felt fresh, with raw edges, draping, and asymmetry adding a modern twist to the designs.
The colour palette of pink, black, white, and army green, combined with glittering lace and bold textures, created a sense of drama and mystery that was quintessentially McQueen. McGirr’s ability to stay true to the brand’s DNA while pushing boundaries ensured that the collection resonated with both new and loyal fans alike.
Louis Vuitton: soft power and sculptural elegance
Nicolas Ghesquière’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Louis Vuitton was a powerful exploration of women’s ability to wield charm as a form of armour. Inspired by the archetype of the Parisienne woman, the collection featured exaggerated leg-o-mutton sleeves, cinched waists, and flared hips, evoking the elegance of French fashion in the late 19th century.
The runway, constructed from Vuitton’s iconic suitcases, was a visual metaphor for movement and history. Ghesquière reimagined historical silhouettes with modern fluidity, removing the rigidity of corsets and layers of fabric while maintaining the sculptural elegance that defines Louis Vuitton.
The collection featured oversized shoulders, capes, and asymmetrical designs, with x-straps and bold prints adding intrigue. The colour palette was vibrant yet grounded, with black, white, and red serving as the foundation, while gold accents and glittering rhinestones added a touch of opulence. The final looks were a celebration of life and movement, with the models dancing their way down the runway to disco beats.
Summary
Spring/Summer 2025 is shaping up to be a season defined by contrasts. Designers have embraced the duality of fashion, offering collections that range from ultra-revealing lingerie-inspired pieces to oversized, voluminous silhouettes. Romantic touches like lace, crochet, and frills add softness to the dramatic shapes, while sheer fabrics and playful accessories create a sense of whimsy.
Sustainability was a key theme across many collections, with brands like Stella McCartney leading the charge toward a more eco-conscious future.
This season, we are witnessing a celebration of both boldness and delicacy, with designers pushing the boundaries of convention while paying homage to tradition. From the ethereal lightness of Chanel’s birdcage-inspired designs to the daring experimentation of Balenciaga, Spring/Summer 2025 is a season that promises to captivate and inspire.
This season is a celebration of both boldness and delicacy, with designers inviting us to embrace the joy of fashion while pushing the limits of creativity.