A travel writer’s guide to eating your way through Lisbon and the Algarve Coast

Europe is an interesting place to visit as a fat person — but that shouldn’t stop you, and it certainly didn’t stop me. My sister, Soreh, and I recently took a sister’s trip that covered ten days, three countries and a whole lot of fabulous experiences and restaurants. 

While traveling, I counted exactly 19 visibly plus-size people on my trip, only one of which was bigger than I was. But again, that didn’t stop me. I wore a few different bikinis, took walking tours, and even got a massage at a five-star spa. 

Overall, this is a trip we’ll talk about for decades to come, full of all the things that make a trip great. So, join me as we visit Lisbon. 

Lisbon

I’ve been to eight European countries and Portugal stands out as the country with the best food overall (although Croatia is certainly a close second). The food was next-level good, whether we ate dishes showcasing local ingredients, fusion cuisine that brought together Japanese and Portuguese flavors, or traditionally-prepared pastel de nata — custard tarts — and salt cod. 

If you’re flying into Lisbon, you’ll find the airport is relatively small. It was built before the surge of tourists flooded the country, which can cause some havoc when flying in, but fewer problems when flying out.

When planning your Portugal itinerary, consider Lisbon your hub, but don’t stay just in the city. With incredible sightseeing, wineries, beaches and parks close by, it would be a shame not to venture out.

Spend a few days in the city, then head to nearby areas like Sintra or Porto, both just a short train ride away. If you have more time, consider going farther to the Algarve coast, where the views are breathtaking and the pace is much slower than Lisbon. This region truly blew me away and it’s only a few hours from Lisbon — definitely a spot for your travel bucket list.

Where to stay in Lisbon:

1908 Hotel – The 1908 hotel was truly the boutique hotel of my dreams. Keeping the stunning architecture of the original building, the interior has been completely renovated and modernized, with some beautiful touches of the original building remaining. The rooms are spacious, without the classic European-style bathroom, which was a definite perk. 

And while the hotel is lovely, it’s the staff that really take it to the next level. They always greet you with joy and warmth, happy to answer any questions and give suggestions on anything Lisbon-related. 

The hotel restaurant Infame also offers a lobby bar with small bites and drinks. The salmon ceviche was easily the best I’ve had anywhere in the world, and the duck croquettes were the perfect filling snack before heading out to enjoy the afternoon.

Squish factor: While large enough, the shower doesn’t have anywhere you can lift your leg for a shower. Additionally, while this isn’t size related, the doorstop on the floor is nearly invisible, especially at night. Be careful or you’ll wind up in a lot of pain.

Bairro Alto Hotel – This five-star boutique hotel is nothing like your favorite luxury chain — it’s far too unique to fit into a cookie-cutter mold. Everywhere you turn, there are thoughtful touches, curated art and the familiar Lisbon pastel and terrazzo colorways. The customer service is top-notch, elevating this hotel to the next level.

Bairro Alto Hotel, a member of the Leading Hotels of the World, promises an unparalleled experience—and it certainly delivers. The rooms are on the smaller side, as you’d expect from a beautifully restored building in Europe, but they’re just the right size to serve as a home base during your travels.

The hotel’s location is ideal for those who like to step outside and explore. There’s plenty to see and do nearby.

Whether you’re staying at the hotel or not, a visit to BAHR restaurant is a must. The views of the city, the water, and the bridge alone make it worth the trip. Whether you grab a cocktail and admire the view or indulge in a full dinner, you won’t be disappointed.

Tivoli Avenida Liberdade – This hotel exudes luxury from the moment you step out of your taxi. The ornate turquoise and gold lobby, excellent customer service and plush accommodations with city views make it perfect for any special occasion. The rooftop Sky Bar is a must-visit during your stay, with views and craft cocktails that are the ideal start or end to any night out.

Every vacation needs a bit of self-care, and for me, that means a trip to the spa. From the moment you walk into the on-site Anantara Spa, you’ll feel at peace and relaxed.

The massage was a 10/10. After changing, the service began with a foot wash and exfoliation, followed by the treatment on a pre-warmed massage table. The room temperature can be adjusted by request — I run hot, so I asked them to turn off the heat. I would have skipped the mini facial, which was more of a cleanser and moisturizer application than a full treatment. After the massage, we were escorted to the relaxation room and enjoyed a glass of champagne before heading back into the world.

I can’t stress enough the impressive level of customer service at Tivoli Avenida Liberdade. Everyone — from the front desk to the spa to the restaurant — goes out of their way to ensure you have the best experience.

Squish factor: As expected, the robe didn’t fit me at all. My size-12 sister found the robe quite small, too, so I’d bring my own. Additionally, the provided booties and plastic underwear didn’t fit as well. As the service started with a foot wash, I simply wore my dress, which I removed when laying down on the table. I left my underwear on during the massage.

Where to eat in Lisbon:

Boubou’s – From the outside, Boubou’s doesn’t look like much, but don’t let that fool you. In addition to a small dining room, the restaurant features a spacious hidden garden. You’ll be surrounded by massive banana trees in a relaxed, casual environment. The menu features local Portuguese ingredients, changing week by week, depending on what is the freshest. My sister and I went with the tasting menu, which featured international flavors and uplifted vegetarian options. You absolutely must order the creamy sweet potato in a coconut tiger milk with kaffir lime ceviche. It was simply sublime, though the rabbit croquette was the best bite of the night. 

Sweet Potato Ceviche at Boubou’s (Soreh Milchtein)

Squish factor: While the food and the environment were top-notch, the seating left me miserable. It consisted mostly of armchairs, so I chose the bench, which somehow was even worse than being squished in the armchair. 

Cavalariça Lisboa – Dim and romantic, Cavalariça Lisboa exudes a charming, laid-back vibe that’s far from stuffy. Once home to a shop that sold electric motors, the restaurant now features a massive white unicorn hanging on the wall, adding a touch of fun to the space. Start your meal with olive oil (or aged butter) and chewy focaccia before diving into the shared plates—or leave the meal to the pros by opting for the tasting menu. Be sure to try the tender, flavorful Alentejo pork and pineapple skewer with cilantro, which delivers a huge flavor punch. For dessert, the chocolate and banana dish brings nostalgic memories of banana bread, with an upscale twist.

Ofício – Lunch at Oficio was so good during my first visit I just had to go back for dinner when I visited a year later — so make sure it’s on your itinerary. Walking into the restaurant feels like an experience. Bright and airy, you’ll want to take a deep breath to drink it all in before being seated. As you are seated, you’re presented with a menu that looks like someone is still in the process of developing it, with scribbled writing and arrows. 

And what a menu it is! From mushrooms topped with chicken caramel (which was super unique and delicious!) to veal and marrow tartar, it will have you salivating before you even order. 

Oficio serves contemporary Portuguese food made with local ingredients, with a dash of Mexican flavors thrown in for good measure. Now I’m a sucker for a fabulous fish dish, especially if the fish is raw. The fresh croaker wrapped in a lettuce leaf deserves an award. It’s simply perfection. Don’t skip the oysters, the stuffed spider crab, or the roasted leeks. 

Squish factor: The chairs have arms, but some bench seating is available. However, I was able to comfortably sit in the armchair for lunch. 

Fish taco at Oficio (Soreh Milchreis)

Sala de Corte – Have you ever been to a steakhouse and felt like it was too old school or stuffy? Well, then you’ll love Sala de Corte, the slightly squished, very relaxed, steakhouse in Lisbon. The first thing you’ll see walking into the restaurant is a dry-aging fridge full of all the steak you can imagine. The lighting is dim, and the hum of conversation and laughter is prominent. The menu is relatively simple. 

We ordered beef tartar, and while it was amazing I wouldn’t order it since the first bite from the chef is also beef tartar. Definitely splurge on the steak, the star of the show as it should be. Once you order, the raw steak will be brought to your table for approval in all of its glory. The porterhouse was cooked to the perfect medium-rare, with one of the best crusts I’ve ever enjoyed. Simply perfect. And dessert was nothing to sneeze at either. A deconstructed hazelnut dessert with a melody of different textures finished with a salted caramel ice cream. 

Squish factor: When making the reservation, ask for a table with bench seating, as the chairs all have armrests.

Brilhante Restaurant – Brilhante has the air of a French brasserie with the service of a Portuguese restaurant, making it a superb choice in my book. Specializing in the centuries-old tenderloin recipe “Bife à Marrare,” which they claim to have perfected, Brilhante’s menu is short and sweet, but offers a little of everything you might want.

Steakhouse classics like tartare and carpaccio, along with seafood options such as raw oysters, sea bass crudo and scallops, are all available as appetizers.Be sure to try the veal croquette, served with a three-mustard tasting accompaniment, for a perfectly balanced bite. A hazelnut soufflé makes for a delicious finale to a meal you’ll savor.

What to do in Lisbon: 

Private Setúbal Region Wine Tasting Experience – Flying into Europe always presents a small dilemma: to sleep or not to sleep. Most flights arrive early in the morning European time, so if you didn’t manage to get some rest on the plane, you’re probably exhausted.

My personal trick to avoid jet lag is to do everything possible to stay up until a reasonable bedtime. That’s how I ended up on a wine-tasting tour in Portugal’s Setúbal region just hours after landing.

The tour takes you to three different wineries, each unique in its own way, where you’ll sample 10 wines, cheeses and local flavors. Along the way, your guide will share insights about the region, what makes it special and Portuguese winemaking.

Since this is a private tour, there’s room for customization. For example, we chose to visit a tile factory and skip one of the wine tastings, making for a truly magical day in the countryside.

A photo of the author and her sister at one of the lookout points (Chaya Milchtein)

Private Food Tour – There’s something special about taking a food tour in a new city and getting to know its cuisine one bite at a time. While traditional food tours are often in large groups, this tour is private, just for you and your group, and fully customizable.

From samples of Portuguese olive oil and grilled meats to the iconic Pastel de Nata, you’ll leave the tour both full and knowledgeable about Portuguese cuisine and dining culture. And don’t forget the chocolate cake—we went back for another before leaving Lisbon; it was that good.

Car Tour of Lisbon – I’ve taken private tours before, but this private car tour from Viator took private tours to a new level. We were picked up from our hotel by a sharply dressed driver in a luxury, air-conditioned sedan before game-planning the tour. 

While the itinerary was laid out when we booked, the beauty of a private tour is that you can change it up. We stopped at Pastéis de Belém, two different lookout points to take in the glory of Lisbon from up high, and learned so much about the city. Our driver-tour guide joined us at most stops, and it was fabulous!

On the Algarve Coast

Martinhal Sagres Algarve —If you’re visiting the Algarve with children, consider the luxury, family-focused, five-star Martinhal resort. Dedicated to helping families vacation without compromising either parents’ or children’s experiences, every element of the resort is carefully curated for family enjoyment. There are countless activities, each designed to cater to different age groups.

The views from our room were breathtaking. Martinhal offers a variety of accommodations to suit any family, from single hotel-style rooms to luxury villas with multiple bedrooms. The staff were gracious and clearly passionate about the resort, ensuring that families have an incredible vacation.

With five pools, a kids’ “beach” and a sports center featuring tennis courts, that’s just the beginning. Climbing walls, football, tennis, swimming lessons, bike rentals and age-divided kids’ clubs allow your children to enjoy a luxury vacation right alongside you.

My wife and I also enjoyed facials at the on-site spa, which caters to adults, tweens, and teens. Offering couples’ services, body treatments, massages, manicures, pedicures, facials and waxing, there’s something for everyone.

The resort also arranges a variety of excursions for guests. We took an off-roading jeep tour and went whale watching. We saw the coast, enjoyed local ice cream and connected with other travelers. Both were great ways to enjoy the coast and soak in every moment of our holiday.

Squish factor: The off-road Jeep tour didn’t have a seatbelt extender, so I had to sit in the front seat to fit comfortably. While wearing a seatbelt didn’t seem to be required, given the nature of off-roading, it was a bit nerve-wracking. Whale watching worked out well, given they allowed us to sit on a bench seat behind the captain, but the tour typically requires visitors to perch on a seat that would have been impossible to fit on.

Vila Vita Parc— For a truly magical day on the water, consider booking a yacht trip at the coastal resort Vila Vita Parc. There’s something special about being on the water anywhere in the world, but cruising along the coast of Portugal and exploring its caves is simply unforgettable. This experience defines luxury (and is priced accordingly), featuring a private captain and crew. If you’re celebrating something special, it might be worth the splurge.

For a lovely meal before or after your cruise, Praia Dourada offers a beachside setting with a fresh menu of sushi and freshly squeezed juices. Giardino, an Italian restaurant, is ideal for dinner, boasting friendly staff and spectacular food.