Polzeath is a small seaside village but it has become a big name on the north coast of Cornwall. Holidaymakers head there each summer for its rolling white-water waves and dramatic sunsets. It’s a mecca for surfers (the likes of David Cameron and Princes William and Harry have been spotted there with boards under arm) as well as families searching for some outdoor fun.
Post lockdown, it “seems to have morphed into a British St Tropez”, said Tatler, but unlike the south of France, “its very beauty is in its low key, friendly, family oriented, outdoor vibe”.
Things to do
The beach
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Polzeath is one of the few real places named by Enid Blyton in her “Famous Five” books, and it’s certainly ripe for a jolly adventure. Twice a day, the tide rolls out to reveal a massive expanse of sand to dig your bucket and spade into. Surrounded by cliffs, the beach has caves and rock pools teeming with crabs, anemones and other sea creatures.
A stream flowing down to the sea is perfect for dam-building and gentle splashing for younger children, while the gradually shelving beach means the waves are slow-breaking and relatively weak – ideal for beginner surfers. The Surf’s Up Surf School offers a range of lessons, from kids’ taster sessions to elite coaching with video analysis.
Hiking and biking
If that doesn’t tire you out, the Pentire Headland Walk runs just above the beach. On a clear day you can see Pentire Point, the Rumps and Tintagel Castle to the north (if you’re really lucky, you might even see a dolphin or a grey seal). Alternatively, take a short drive to join the Camel Trail, an 18-mile, largely traffic-free walk through the Cornish countryside. Bike hire is available along the way, including in Padstow and Wadebridge.
Further afield
On busier days, there are plenty of other beaches nearby, including Daymer Bay and Rock, where thrill-seekers can try out water-skiing, wakeboarding or kayaking with Camel Ski School.
Polzeath is also close to two of Cornwall’s picture-postcard harbour towns. Walk in the footsteps of Martin Clunes in Port Isaac, the setting for “Doc Martin”, or head to Rock and get a ferry over to Padstow for a pasty by the fishing boats (just watch out for the seagulls).
Where to stay
Nestled into the Cornish coastline – a 15-minute walk from the beach – is The Point at Polzeath, a golf club with a range of stylish self-catering accommodation. Golfers come for the well-kept and challenging 18-hole course, but there are plenty of other things to do, from tennis courts, padel courts and an indoor pool to a restaurant and bar with stunning views over Hayle Bay and Pentire Point. The atmosphere is relaxed and family-friendly, with green spaces in every direction.
The Point is in the process of completing more than a dozen luxury eco-cabins on a former grassy airstrip. Chelsea Flower Show gold medalist Darren Hawkes has been brought in to transform the area, creating a wild yet beautiful landscape of hardy meadow flora and trees. Each cabin, built in partnership with bespoke property designer Koto, blends in with the surroundings, with larch cladding and dense vegetation on the roof.
Inside, the chicly decorated three-bedroom cabins have a Scandinavian feel: clean lines, neutral colours, wool rugs and throws. The open-plan kitchen and living area has all the mod cons you need, from a Nespresso machine, dishwasher and washing machine to smart TV and Bluetooth system. There’s even space for wetsuits and golf clubs.
The most striking feature is the floor-to-ceiling doors and windows, flooding the rooms with natural light and bringing the outside in. Sliding doors take you to a secluded deck, where you can relax with a glass of wine as the sun sets.
Eating and drinking
The Point’s restaurant and Bear Bar offer great views, as well as delicious locally sourced food. The chef’s katsu curry, with panko aubergine, roquito pepper pearls and crispy onions, is packed full of flavour – and don’t leave without trying the family-sized, award-winning sticky toffee pudding.
Closer to the beach (still a five-minute blood-pumping walk up the hill of Pentire View) is the Oystercatcher, where you can grab a pint from St Austell Brewery and a hearty fish and chips. Or, for a pre-surf coffee and scone, pop into Flo’s Kitchen, a beachside coffee shop and salad bar set among the pubs, cafes and quirky surf shops.
Hollie Clemence was a guest of The Point. A stay at Rumps 16, one of The Point’s new three-bedroom, two-bathroom eco-cabins, starts at £440 for two nights.