Bar Talk: The world of Lillet

Last weekend, I was at a dear friend’s bachelorette party, and being the good cocktail columnist that I am, I didn’t show up empty-handed.

Thinking about what might appeal to a group of people, the majority of whom I have never met, I decided a light, relatively low-ABV cocktail was probably a safe bet, especially if afternoon drinking was going to lead to evening drinking. So I snagged a bottle of Lillet Blanc off my shelf, grabbed some champagne, grapefruit, and Topo Chico, and stuffed it all in the fridge of our Airbnb when we arrived in anticipation of making Lillet spritz for the group one afternoon.

The drinks were a hit because, truly, how could a spritz in the afternoon disappoint. But it got me thinking about another variation of Lillet on my shelf that ever since receiving I have yet to reach for: Lillet Rouge.

There are three varieties of Lillet: Blanc, Rosé and Rouge.

While all three of these French aperitif wines are made from a base of Bordeaux wine fortified with fruit liquors and aged in oak casks, the type of grapes used differs based on the variety. Lillet Blanc is made from Semillon and Sauvignon Blac grapes, Rouge is made from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, and Rosé, the newest addition to the Lillet family, is made from a blend of all four grapes.

I think it was a combination of Rouge being the variety I had seen on shelves and used in drinks the least as well as my lack of knowledge on how best to use this dark red aperitif, which is why it has sat on my shelf for so long.

But inspired by breaking out the Blanc, I decided now is the time to try my hand at the Rouge and see where it lands in my Lillet lineup.

Rouge is noticeably richer in flavor than the other two varieties and decidedly fruiter with predominant notes of berry, and like all, Lillet (pronounced lee-lay) should be served chilled.

In looking up recipes for Rouge, I started at the source, lillet.com, because I figured those who know best are probably the ones who make it.

The No. 1 suggested way to serve was in a Negroni, with the Lillet Rouge standing in for sweet vermouth. 

A perfect cocktail — meaning all measurements are equal — I did slightly alter the official recipe to be in more standardized US measurements and constructed like a typical Negroni (see fact box for recipe). Additionally, the lillet.com recipe had conflicting instructions, with one part saying it should be shaken and poured into a rocks glass and another claiming it should be constructed in a wine glass and served. So naturally, I combined the two and constructed it in a rocks-style glass, stirred and served.

In all honesty, this take on a Negroni was initially a little strong for me. With the big flavors of the Rouge, it was too much with the gin and Campari, and while a Negroni is a spirit-forward cocktail, this was a punch of spirits.

To tone it down to my speed, I did a little cocktail science trick I recently learned about called rice washing.

This technique — in a mixing glass, add ice, two tablespoons of raw rice (I used jasmine), cocktail ingredients, and stir until chilled, then strain into a glass — helps to smooth out a cocktail and reduce the bitterness or alcoholic bite.

For the Negroni Rouge, rice washing resulted in toning down the competing flavors and overall sharpness of the drink. What was left was a smoother and fuller Negroni where the fruit flavors of the Rouge were brought forward and the drink was made much more palatable.

The other serving suggestion for Rouge according to Lillet is in a sangria, and that seems like a spot-on use for this wine aperitif. As a sub for traditional wine, I believe it would enhance the fruitiness of sangria and add a nice body to the drink.

However, instead of sangria, for my second try at a Rouge-based cocktail, I went with one that featured items already in my fridge, called the “Redheaded Ginger” from Cocktails Distilled.

Simple and to the point, this cocktail is made with ginger beer, Lillet Rouge, and bitters (I used orange although the recipe called for grapefruit bitters) served in a tall glass over ice.

It’s bubbly, it’s bright, the flavors complement one another, and it’s almost the Rouge’s answer to an easy-drinking Lillet Blanc/Rosé Spritz.

After lightly experimenting with Rouge, I can see its appeal and appreciate its flavors, but in the Lillet lineup, I think it currently ranks third for me. The versatile nature of the Blanc and Rosé puts above the Rouge, and I still think they are easier to reach for, experiment with, and interchange for other aperitifs or vermouths in cocktail recipes.

Regardless of your pick, if you’re not exploring the world of Lillet, it’s time to set aside the Aperol for a moment and add this French classic to your summer aperitif roster.