Capri pants and ‘cautious optimism’: What you missed at Copenhagen Fashion Week

Before its hiatus, (Di)vision was stocked at retailers like LN-CC and Ssense, but is now 100 per cent DTC, and the collection of upcycled hoodies, jorts, sports-inspired jackets and more was made available immediately post-show on the brand’s website. “The last few years have been tough for everyone, including me. So I decided to make a collection for the community,” says founder Wick. In practice, this meant producing upcycled, conceptual pieces that would never work for wholesale, like garments made from kids toys and cut-up The North Face jackets, alongside the brand’s signature wearable logo hoodies and bombers.

“Working in wholesale I feel like I get too distanced from what’s actually going on and who buys my clothes… [Plus] almost everything is upcycled in our atelier, which is something that’s hard to do when you produce full-range collections for wholesale. I’ve been so happy about the feedback so far. I can already tell that it really works,” continues Wick. In future, (Di)vision might add a few “key accounts” for branding and positioning, but he doesn’t see it becoming a wholesale-reliant business again.

Slow fashion, made-to-order label La Bagatelle held an exhibition on Tuesday, presenting a small selection of handwoven pieces and vintage textiles. The brand is 100 per cent DTC, and the collection was available to buy on the brand’s site straight after the event. “I think that is far more exciting,” says La Bagatelle founder Malene Malling. “Personally, I hate waiting, and so does my audience. As everything is tailor-made in Copenhagen, I can have everything sewn up in two weeks. When a customer orders something a tailor gets on it straight away. That way everything is made for my customers personally, which I think is a true luxury.” The brand has grown steadily year-on-year since its launch in 2021, the founder adds.

“We have seen so many pivots this edition, which we only want to encourage brands to foster,” says Thorsmark. “This is the era of rethinking from the ground up, and also exploring what business models work best for the individual rather than following formulaic industry formats.”

Capri pants to earthy textures: Trends to know

Of course, Copenhagen will always have minimalism as a focal point, with many designers sticking to the programme this season through sophisticated tailoring and simplistic eveningwear from The Garment, Skall Studio and menswear label Berner Kühl; Mytheresa’s Johnson notes The Garment as a highlight, for championing an “ethereal aesthetic”. “This season, we observed several compelling trends. A notable shift towards lightness was evident, both in colour palettes and fabrications, with sheer, fluid materials and soft drapes in shades of cream, beige and pastels taking centre stage,” says Johnson.