Checking into W Sydney in Darling Harbour, the largest W hotel in the world

The A$1 billion (US$646 million) curving and gleaming Ribbon building, the plans for which were first unveiled by Hassell architects in 2014, has been under closer surveillance for, well, a good part of a decade. The much anticipated opening has not been a disappointment.

Perhaps most of all because it embraces its unusual location. Interiors by the London firm Bowler James Brindley positively lean into the urban grit.

One example is the third-floor Btwn (short for “between”, as in that it’s between two highways) restaurant which features elements of underpasses and neon-lit highways in its design, along with graffitied columns by Sydney artist Sophi Odling – very concrete chic.

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It’s surprisingly compelling to sit in the restaurant and see cars silently whizzing by the glass walls (the soundproofing is seriously impressive) as you eat inspired morsels from chef Chris Dodd, formerly of Matt Moran’s Aria restaurant.

The flavours are big and delicious, taking in influences from the nearby Chinatown with local produce championed. Further decadence is added to Btwn with the late-night five-course dessert bar degustation concept, 2am, by Singaporean pastry star Janice Wong.

By day? It’s a coffee bar. Come morning, highlights at the breakfast buffet include the array of fresh juices and smoothies, fruit and pastries – including Portuguese custard tarts and an excellent lamington. If you’re really feeling like breaking all of the breakfast rules, there’s a gelato bar too.

Feeling as though you’re part of the city is something to be experienced throughout the entire hotel. Like all W Hotels around the world, the W Sydney embraces its surroundings and the culture it finds itself in. This is as apparent in the giant W sign that greets you on entrance, rendered in flaming red silicon waratah petals (a native flower to New South Wales and a motif repeated in exuberant wallpaper in the suites’ wardrobes), as it is with the sleek and sexy rooftop infinity pool and “wet deck” on the 29th floor.

Sip a bespoke cocktail in one of the cabanas with a view of the harbour and the city skyline, and it is impossible to not love Sydney.

Soon the hotel will open a new bar above the pool, with a fit-out inspired by superyachts and with French champagne by the glass. If you do want to leave the hotel, it’s a short walk to Chinatown, the restaurants and nightlife of Barangaroo and the CBD.

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This feeling of serenity in the big city, of sexy vibes in its bright lights and dark corners, continues as you find your room. On the ceiling of the elevators and along the corridors are “constellations” of fibre-optic glimmering lights by Ukrainian-born, Australia-based tattoo artist Stanislava Pinchuk, intended to mimic the stars in the night sky.

Upon entry to our “Wonderful” suite, the curtains open to reveal a view of Darling Harbour – ferries sailing by, construction underway where a shopping centre used to be, the city in full swing. Marine-inspired, with shades of blue and white with gold accents throughout, the fit-out is sleek with a well-stocked drinks trolley (including bespoke cocktail mixes from award-winning Sydney cocktail bar Maybe Sammy), a must-soak-in-immediately deep bath tub in the navy en suite, and amenities from sustainability-focused luxury Italian brand Davines. The room has a chaise made for lounging, LED TV with Chromecast and handy bedside USB ports.

The hotel also has “Wow” suites and an “Extreme Wow” penthouse suite with exceptional views – and frankly, the kind of groovily 70s-ish fit-out that makes it impossible not to mutter “wow” under your breath. Should you want to linger longer there are also one, two and three-bedroom self-contained studios.

The shiny, sheeny glamour is offset with the irreverent spirit to be found throughout the hotel, the W signature plush shark on the bed, the waratah wallpaper, the jellyfish mosaic motif on the bottom of the infinity pool. Inspiration from the nests of the local bowerbird are striking in the day-to-night “living room” area, while golden honeycomb detail and illuminated blue lights upon entry add to the feeling of an escape to the city.

Indeed, a city staycation should be restorative. Because the bed is firm yet cloudlike (with a QR pillow menu), sure, but also because it revives you in some way. That might be through feeling the energy of the city as you sip a cocktail and watch it go by, or perhaps it’s tension melting away in the spa.

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At the W Sydney’s Away spa, a more pared-back kind of serenity is on offer than the rest of the hotel (though to be fair, I was also offered a lychee martini at 10am, so the fun truly can be had at any hour). Cute little pink manicure pods and lounge areas should be made full use of, though it’s the blonde wood Finnish-style sauna and steam room, along with a sensorial immersive shower experience, that truly relaxes body and spirit. My visit to the spa is capped off with a calming facial, scalp and foot massage that leaves me so heavy with relaxation I could barely lift my limbs, let alone sip a lychee martini.

Indeed, 24 hours after stepping foot into the W Sydney, I’m energised in several ways – reminded of the importance of glamour and its restorative effect, and also how serenity can be found in surprising ways, including between two highways and a precinct in the midst of a makeover.

Rooms at the W Sydney start from AUD$599 (US$385) per night.