David Koma appointed creative director of Blumarine

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London-based Georgian designer David Koma is the new creative director of Blumarine, the company announced today, following the swift exit of previous creative director Walter Chiapponi in March after one season. He will present his first collection for pre-fall 2025 in May/June next year.

Known for his red carpet occasionwear, Koma launched his eponymous London-based fashion house in 2009, and has built a robust client base for his sculptural, bold silhouettes.

“David Koma’s aesthetic captured me from the beginning. I am sure that David will be able to interpret Blumarine’s codes to perfection, thanks to his vision and stylistic sensitivity, characterised by an overwhelming femininity,” said Marco Marchi, sole director of Exelite, the holding company that owns Blumarine, in a statement.

Blumarine has had a turbulent recent history. From 2019-2023, the label was somewhat reinvigorated by former creative director Nicola Brognano, who brought a popular Y2K aesthetic to Blumarine, including the viral butterfly camisole, low-slung denim and metallics. Following Brognano’s departure in October 2023, Blumarine appointed Chiapponi, who’d previously served as creative director of Tod’s, setting the label on a more mature, classic course. His first (and last collection) took a more romantic direction, but was criticised for a lack of cohesion. Under Koma, we can likely expect a return to Brognano’s high-octane glamour, albeit with a more elegant twist.

“Blumarine embodies a unique blend of sensuality, timeless glamour and elegance that I always admired, and it is an honour to be able to write the next chapter in the brand’s illustrious history,” Koma said in a statement. “I am excited to celebrate Blumarine’s rich creative heritage while infusing it with my own modern vision. The brand’s feminine aesthetic deeply resonates with me, making this journey feel incredibly authentic. I am eager to craft collections that inspire and captivate our audience, ushering in an exciting new era of innovation and creativity at this esteemed house.”

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Walter Chiapponi exits Blumarine after one season