Dish: When Did The Panettone Become A Fashion Icon?

But when was it ever not?

For years, I thought panettone was just another version of the much-maligned fruitcake that everyone gifts during the holidays in the States—a gift that no one ever eats. Maybe it was the raisins or the candied fruit, but it just didn’t excite me. Then, I tried an artisanal panettone. And that was all it took. One bite, and I understood.

Panettone isn’t just a holiday dessert; it’s a symbol of Italian Christmas magic—a sweet, airy bread baked with candied fruits and raisins. The best ones are so light and fluffy, they’re like eating a cloud.

The name “panettone” comes from the Lombard word panetùn or panetòn, meaning “large bread” or “luxury bread.” There are plenty of myths about its origins. One story claims it was born out of a kitchen mishap at the Duke of Milan’s court when a cook burned the Christmas dessert. A humble kitchen hand named Toni then stepped in and whipped up a last-minute bread with leftover ingredients—thus, il pan del Toni. Another version tells of a lovesick nobleman who created panettone to win the heart of a baker’s daughter. History points to Milanese traditions, where only the nobility enjoyed pan de ton until it became a family tradition. By the 1500s, recipes were written down, and over time, the sweet bread evolved into the fluffy, candied masterpiece we know today.

“The rise of panettone’s popularity internationally, including in France, doesn’t really surprise me—it’s perfect for this time of year,” says Mauro Colagreco, chef at the esteemed three-Michelin-starred Mirazur in Menton, France, who’s also behind the delicious Mitron Bakery. “It’s a shareable dessert, easy to transport, and makes for an ideal gift,” he adds. “It also embodies the spirit of the season—joy, sharing, and togetherness—and that’s why it resonates so well outside of Italy.”

In my opinion, panettone has always been a food fashion icon. “The art of its preparation has been passed down through generations, evolving over time. It’s a product that embodies the expertise of Italian artisans, whether bakers or pastry chefs,” says Matteo Cunsolo, owner of La Panetteria bakery in Parabiago (province of Milan). “In many ways, it’s like pasta; it evokes the poetry of Christmas, tradition, and family togetherness.”

The Rise of Panettone as a Fashion Icon

Panettoni are like designer handbags to food enthusiasts, and the tin or box it comes in is never an afterthought. “While the panettone may disappear—often quite quickly!—the tin remains as a reminder of this shared experience,” says Colagreco. “It’s an object you can keep, reuse, or display, allowing the memory of the celebration to live on,” he adds—reiterating that the packaging is just as important as the panettone inside.

This year, there’s no shortage of fashion collaborations. Moschino and Martesana, Roberto Cavalli and Olivieri 1882, Gucci Osteria and Posillipo Dolce Officina, and Dolce & Gabbana and Fiasconaro have all joined the trend, offering panettoni in chic designer tins. “The connection to fashion, through pairings with designer and luxury Christmas boxes, represents a reinterpretation of panettone—a way to make this iconic dessert even more stylish,” says Cunsolo.

This year, in addition to his traditional offering, he released a limited edition panettone combining two iconic ingredients from recent culinary traditions from Columbia and Japan: Colombian chocolate (intense aroma) and Japanese wasabi (bold and unexpected)—presented in an elegant wooden box decorated with the colors of the Colombian and Japanese flags.

“To be honest, consumers aren’t just looking at the product anymore,” says Nicola Olivieri, owner and pastry chef of the historic Olivieri 1882 in Arzignano, Italy (Veneto). “There are so many high-quality panettoni out there now that people are considering packaging as a deciding factor, especially when gifting.”

This year, Olivieri 1882 collaborated with design house Roberto Cavalli, combining the Panettone Superclassico with a tin in the ‘Ray of Light’ pattern designed by the Cavalli team. “This partnership just makes sense. Like Cavalli, we are a Made-in-Italy brand focused on excellence and quality,” Olivieri explains, noting previous collaborations with Gucci and Loro Piana for a limited-edition Fashion Week collaboration. “These partnerships make sense to us: these brands specialize in luxury fashion, and we specialize in luxury panettone. We share the same values of history, craftsmanship, and quality.”

Olivieri 1882 also works with the 18th-century department store Fortnum & Mason in London, known for its high-end gourmet products. “They sampled our panettone, were intrigued, and decided to embark on a partnership with us,” says Olivieri. “These collaborations—along with those with important fashion brands and designers—have naturally introduced panettone to a wider, global audience.”

Colagreco teamed up with Nice-based designer Marion Butet—and each tin lid varies according to the panettone flavor (traditional, chocolate, and Menton lemon). “Together, we created a design that’s a true homage to Menton, capturing the warmth of the South of France with sunny hues, bringing a ray of Mediterranean light to the winter season,” says Colagreco. As for the panettone’s popularity, Colagreco notes that it’s likely driven by its versatility and the growing trend of cross-cultural appreciation in cuisine. “Whether through travel, social media, or collaborations with fashion and design, more people are discovering the joy of this iconic Italian dessert, and I’m thrilled to see it embraced worldwide,” he says.

Colagreco sees the panettone becoming a “culinary icon” far beyond Italy—”not unlike a work of art or a designer piece that people are proud to display and share,” he says. “Its rise in popularity around the world speaks to the universal appeal of tradition, craftsmanship, and the desire to celebrate with something truly special.”

Can a Panettone Be Outstanding Outside of Italy?

The answer is yes. I traveled back to Menton, France, in November after hearing that Colagreco makes an IGP Menton lemon panettone for the holiday season at Mitron Bakery. Colagreco founded Mitron Bakery in 2019, complete with its own mill, offering living bread and regional delights. There are now bakeries in Menton, Monaco, and Nice. Being so close to Italy, and with Colagreco’s Italian heritage, it was only natural for him to create a panettone for the festive season.

“To create our own panettone, my team and I trained in Udine, Italy, with some of the best experts to revive traditional techniques and ensure we honored this recipe,” says Colagreco. “I use only the finest ingredients, from the flour to the natural flavors, and after many tests, I developed a unique recipe, including a special Menton lemon panettone.” This year, he also introduced a chocolate version. “For me, panettone represents the spirit of sharing and celebrating without borders, which aligns perfectly with my own philosophy.”

“The culture surrounding this dessert is thriving worldwide, and we are delighted to see Italian craftsmanship and expertise celebrated,” says Cunsolo.

“One important factor is that bakeries like Olivieri 1882 are actively bringing panettone outside of Italy, positioning it in the world’s top boutiques and luxury department stores,” says Olivieri. And there’s never been a better time to ship one of these pieces of Italian tradition for the holidays. (if you’re reading this and it’s not Christmas yet, you can still get a panettone delivered to the states in time!).

Panettone Is More Than a Holiday Dessert—It’s an Emotion.

“For me, panettone is more than just a dessert; it’s a powerful symbol of my childhood, evoking memories of my grandparents’ house, the excitement of gifts, and the joy of playing with my cousins during the holidays,” says Colagreco. “Growing up in Argentina, a country with a rich history of Italian immigration, panettone has always been a centerpiece of our festive traditions.”

Colagreco recalls that, even in the heat of summer, growing up in Argentina, the Italian influence in terms of baking and pastries was strong. “My father and aunts would gather every year to make their own version of panettone, known as ‘Pan dulce,’” he says. “While similar, it has its own unique twist, but the essence remains the same: it’s a shared dessert that brings families together, no matter the weather or the location.”

“To me, panettone symbolizes not only the warmth and togetherness of the holidays but also a connection to my roots and the blending of cultures. It represents the way food can carry tradition, heritage, and memory through generations. It’s also a testament to the beauty of craftsmanship, much like art or fashion—it’s a creation that requires care, precision, and passion.”

For Cunsolo, the sweet bread is the equivalent of a blank canvas for a painter. “The moment I start making my panettoni is intense, filled with countless emotions,” he says. “I am a baker from Parabiago, in the province of Milan, and from mixing the dough to baking and shaping, every single moment is cathartic.”

A Deep Commitment to the Craft

The stacks of panettoni in the shape of a tree at your local supermarket are likely mass-produced. If you’re going to show up at a party or send a gastronomy-loving friend a holiday gift, the artisanal kind is the only way to go. “A great panettone isn’t just the work of the pastry chef or baker; its excellence also lies in the quality of the raw materials. Italy can proudly boast countless artisans who, with love and passion, carefully refine the ingredients to make them truly unique on a global scale,” says Cunsolo.

“Great artisanal panettone aligns with the values of stores and boutiques that have high expectations for quality and craftsmanship. Our panettone takes four days to make and uses only top, meticulously sourced ingredients,” says Olivieri.

“I use only the finest ingredients, from the flour to the natural flavors, and after many tests, I developed a unique recipe, including a special Menton lemon panettone,” says Colagreco—and as a result, it led to the panettone being named the ‘Best Creative Panettone in France’ at the 2021 French Panettone Championship. “In order to apply the principles of circular gastronomy, the committed culinary movement that I support, I worked with my team to craft a panettone that respects both the environment and the artisans who make it,” he says. Everyone knows that the secret to the best panettone is sourdough, producing the lightest, cloudiest, fluffiest texture.

At La Panetteria bakery, Cunsolo notes they produce at most 5,000 units per season. “Panettone has a limited shelf life to preserve its artisanal quality; otherwise, it becomes an industrial product,” he says. From the end of November until December 25, Cunsolo is non stop kneading and baking. “My traditional, handcrafted panettone is also exported to Hong Kong, where Italian entrepreneur Michelangelo Guglielmetti has introduced it as one of the most appreciated Christmas desserts.” Along with his business partner, Andrea Chiapparini, they also export to Ibiza, Spain, through Pomona Ibiza, a company that supplies bread and artisanal baked goods to restaurants and hotels across the island.