Fashion Briefing: How The Row cemented its luxury leader status in 2024

For the first quarter of 2024, The Row made its debut on The Lyst Index’s Top 20 Brands. Where searches for the brand increased by 93%, and searches for the brand’s Margaux tote increased by 198% year-over-year, making it the hottest product of the quarter.

In September, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, the brand’s majority stakeholders, accepted backing from the Wertheimer brothers and Françoise Bettencourt Meyers. The brothers, who own Chanel, have also invested in health startup Evolved by Nature and healthcare company Thirty Madison. Meyers, heiress to the L’Oréal fortune, has invested in French fashion brand Sézane, among other companies. The investment earned The Row a $1 billion valuation.

“The Row has had numerous opportunities for investment over the years but chose to wait for the right partners — those who understand the importance of building lasting value,” said Christopher Morency, founder of fashion creative studio Dot Do Dot Partners. Morency has previously consulted on creative strategy for Gucci and Marni and was the chief brand officer at the Vanguards Fashion Group.

Instead of chasing fleeting trends or adopting high-risk strategies, The Row has prioritized a steady ascent, focusing on timeless designs and high-quality craftsmanship. Its Margaux bag, introduced in 2018, became a symbol of 2023’s popular “quiet luxury” aesthetic. The Row’s price points range from $300 for cotton T-shirts to over $4,000 for wool coats and leather handbags, all crafted in the U.S. or Italy.

And the new investment sets it up for longevity. “The Row’s success is a testament to their patience and strategic vision,” Morency said.

In addition, The Row’s retail footprint expanded in 2024 with the June opening of its first flagship store in Paris, the global epicenter of fashion. The Row also has stores in New York, Los Angeles and London.

According to Morency, while The Row’s early success was largely driven by prominent wholesale accounts, that channel has likely reached its ceiling. The Row’s current wholesale partners include Net-a-Porter, Bergdorf Goodman and Forty Five Ten.

“To sustain growth and compete at the highest level, The Row needs to focus on its own retail footprint,” he said.

Operating owned retail stores allows The Row to fully shape the customer experience and deepen relationships with top-tier clients in key regions.

To sustain its growth, taking a nuanced approach to client segmentation will be key, Morency said. This could include tailoring products, price points and methods of engagement to new targets. For example, high-touch interactions, such as handwritten letters, may appeal to top-tier clients, while more mainstream segments may better respond to Instagram posts or email outreach.

But the challenge will be expanding The Row’s reach to a broader audience without alienating its loyal customer base. Thus far, the brand has erred on the side of exclusivity through moves like banning cell phones at its runway shows — instead, it gives attendees pencils and paper to sketch the designs.

Still, in May, The Row’s sample sale took over TikTok, with influencers and fashion fans sharing their steals from the New York event that had queues from early hours. Shoppers scored discounts on everything from cashmere sweaters to sleek leather bags, sparking a viral buzz that helped the brand capture the attention of a younger audience.

While celebrities like Jennifer Lawrence and Kendall Jenner have been seen wearing The Row’s signature loafers, Morency argued that the brand doesn’t rely on such endorsements. “The Row thrives on its merit, not on heavy gifting or press-driven strategies,” he said.

He added. “Their success is proof that sometimes the quietest brands have the most lasting impact.”

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