Fashion Briefing: Matthieu Blazy and Louise Trotter have big shoes to fill

Blazy’s departure from the Kering-owned Bottega Veneta left a void that was quickly filled by Louise Trotter. Trotter is currently the designer at the French brand Carven. Carven has not yet announced its own replacement for Trotter’s position.

Blazy had a successful run at Bottega Veneta where his designs helped grow the brand’s revenue in 2023 to over $1.6 billion. Increased sales at Bottega Veneta were one of the few bright spots in Kering’s earnings reports this year, which saw sales drop at other star brands like Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent and overall operating income fall by 47%. This puts Blazy in a very good position to take over creative leadership at the second-largest fashion brand in the world, behind Louis Vuitton.

“Blazy’s prior experience in high-pressure, creative roles at Calvin Klein and Maison Margiela prepared him for the magnitude of such a challenge,” said fashion stylist Heather Jude. “In any role in the fashion industry, it is high pressure, and being at the top of an iconic brand like Chanel magnifies this to a whole new level. Lagerfeld was able to craft his own voice at Chanel, which became a legacy. The thing that will be difficult for Blazy to do is to find his unique perspective and voice for the brand, without being stuck in Lagerfeld’s shadow and without disrupting the nature of the brand’s history.”

Chanel’s revenue in 2023 was $19.7 billion, rising 16% and making it one of the most dominant brands in the luxury space. It also holds the rare distinction of being successful in both fashion and leather goods. But like many in the luxury industry, it faces threats both from the limits of raising prices and competition from other major luxury brands, like Hermès and Louis Vuitton.

Blazy’s departure also means Trotter has a big role to fill. As one of the few brands that are growing in Kering’s current rough patch, there will be pressure for Trotter to seamlessly come in and keep Bottega’s positive sales coming. Experts told Glossy there are both positive and negative traits she brings to the role.

“While Trotter’s history of the clean and classic aesthetic aligns with some industry trends, there’s a risk of losing the innovation that has defined Bottega’s success under Blazy,” said culture expert and business consultant Marissa Andrada. “High-end luxury consumers are often drawn to bold, transformative designs and unique pieces, over the ‘play it safe’ approach. If Trotter’s approach mirrors that of Sabato De Sarno at Gucci, the result could potentially soften the brand’s unique allure. Kering’s ability to navigate this shift while maintaining Bottega’s distinctiveness will be critical.”

Bottega’s CEO Leo Rongone emphasized Trotter’s compatibility with the brand’s existing aesthetic.

“Her aesthetic seamlessly combines exquisite design with sublime craft and her commitment to cultural advocacy aligns beautifully with our brand vision,” Rongone said in a statement about the leadership change. “Through her sophisticated lens, Bottega Veneta will continue to celebrate its heritage while preserving modern relevance.”

Carven went bankrupt in 2018, but slowly pulled itself back together under the ownership of Chinese company ICCF Group. Trotter took over in February 2023 and, over the course of three seasons, was credited with continuing that revitalization.

The moves, putting new creative heads at two of fashion’s biggest brands, are the latest in a series of significant reshufflings of creative leadership in fashion over the last year. Kim Jones stepped down from Fendi after four years in October, and Hedi Slimane left Celine only a few weeks prior.

While it has increasingly become the norm for designers to stay at luxury fashion houses for only a few years before departing, Chanel has been an exception. Blazy will only be the brand’s fourth creative director in its over a century of existence. Coco Chanel was first, followed by Lagerfeld.

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