Fashion month: everything you need to know ahead of New York, London, Paris and Milan

For many, September signals a return to packed lunches and sensible shoes. For the fashion industry, it heralds a four-week spectacle of shows, supermodels, Hollywood stars, street style and lots and lots of silly shoes. Yes, fashion month has rolled around yet again.

The next month will showcase the luxury looks that will eventually trickle down to the high street and become a new “core” on TikTok. But the shows also capture shifts in the wider mood, a sort of litmus test for cultural trends. From hemlines to heel heights, neon to neutrals and the way a model’s makeup is done or not done, these trends are all part of a bigger biannual vibe shift. With that in mind, here are some key moments to look out for …

New York

Ralph Lauren is kicking off New York fashion week today with a show in the Hamptons, the home of Instagrammable clapboard cottages and juicy lobster rolls. It would be hard to name a more apt location to showcase Lauren’s signature preppy aesthetic than the beachside playground of the rich and famous – the brand’s polo player logoshirts and tennis dresses are practically the uniform of residents and weekend visitors alike. Guests at previous shows included Glenn Close and Jennifer Lopez, so expect to see a starry a crowd schlep to the eastern end of Long Island.

On Sunday night, show-goers will be treated to another iconic east-coast location as Tommy Hilfiger invites them to jump aboard a decommissioned Staten Island ferry, which spent nearly 60 years shuttling commuters to and from Manhattan. In a statement, Hilfiger said: “New York City is the birthplace of the American dream, and the Staten Island ferry represents the gateway to self-expression for so many across history.” Can we expect him to put a maritime spin on his design signatures? We’re betting on nautical striped shirts and sailor collars. And will a boater hat replace the baseball cap as the new accessory du jour? Watch this space.

London

LFW will be continuing its 40th anniversary celebrations with established labels (Burberry, Erdem and JW Anderson) showing alongside emerging names. Ones to watch include Sinéad O’Dwyer, who is known for her inclusive casting, and Paolo Carzana, a Welsh designer who experiments with plant-based and recycled materials. Earlier this year, Harry Styles invested in Steven Stokey-Daley’s quirky SS Daley brand. Previously, the Liverpool designer had Sir Ian McKellen read Alfred Tennyson’s poem Idylls of the King: The Coming of Arthur during a show. Can the designer persuade Styles to follow suit?

From pop to politics, some are pondering if Victoria Starmer might attend Edeline Lee’s first catwalk show. The NHS worker and wife of Keir Starmer is a fan of the Canadian-born, London-based designer, even choosing a Labour-red dress from the brand for the party conference in October. Or maybe Angela Rayner, known for her love of British labels, will hit the front row fresh from dancing in Ibiza. With the British fashion industry contributing £62bn to the UK economy, it would be validating to see politicians show support.

Milan

Over in Italy’s home of fashion, there have been some surprising alterations to the traditional schedule. After the exit of designer Peter Hawkings – and with Colombian-born Haider Ackermann only announced as his replacement yesterday – Tom Ford is skipping the catwalk this season. Giorgio Armani will also be absent. The 90-year-old designer is instead heading to New York in October for a show that will coincide with the opening of a huge new Armani building on Madison Avenue, featuring everything from restaurants to a residential unit. But with big names including Gucci, Fendi and Bottega Veneta still on the agenda, the week will not fall flat.

Paris

France will say “bonjour” to the Danish stalwart Ganni, which is joining the schedule for the first time. Its catwalk debut takes place just after Dior and hours before Saint Laurent on the opening day. All eyes will also be on the catwalk at Dries Van Noten. It’s the brand’s first show without Dries himself. The Belgian designer helmed his namesake label for 38 years before retiring in June with a swansong show complete with a silver foil-covered catwalk and 800 teary-eyed guests. With a successor yet to be announced, design is currently being overseen by a wider team. We can’t see them veering away from the brand’s signature shimmering fabrics and floral prints. But will it have the Dries magic touch?

The French capital will also host Alessandro Michele’s highly anticipated catwalk debut for Valentino, following Pierpaolo Piccioli’s somewhat surprising departure in March. Michele, who previously served as the creative director of Gucci, will finally confirm the direction he wants to take the storied Roman house in. There’s also hype around Coperni, which will close out the week. The Parisian brand, which has previously spray-painted a dress on to a naked Bella Hadid and let robot dogs prowl the catwalk, is staging its next show at Disneyland Paris. It marks the first time that the theme park will stage a show and potentially the first time Anna Wintour will don Mickey Mouse ears. Speaking to Women’s Wear Daily, cofounder Arnaud Vaillant said: “Fashion can be a little snobbish. We always like to bring it to a bigger stage.” Get ready to see fashion at its most Goofy …

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