Fashion unwrapped: Diane von Furstenberg at Skirball Cultural Center

The wrap dress is a staple—a timeless piece that has transcended fashion trends. The Skirball Cultural Center in Los Angeles is presenting the exhibition Diane von Furstenberg: Woman Before Fashion, tracing the evolution of the iconic dress and its designer Diane von Furstenberg. The story of how a 26-year-old Belgian fashion designer created a little printed jersey dress in 1974 is not just a chapter in fashion history but extends to longer narrations of freedom and women’s empowerment. Therefore the exhibition is not simply a display of garments but a visual biography. “I hope the visitors feel within their lives what I felt working in this, that Diane is sort of a model for how to keep going, to take risks, to find your own sources of freedom and to push forward in one’s life,” said Cate Thurston, curator of the exhibition, in an interview with STIR. “I hope visitors feel inspired by her story and [that] they find joy and beauty in it as well.” The exhibit showcases over 50 garments from the DVF archives, along with sketches, fabric swatches and archival material focusing on von Furstenberg’s contributions to fashion and her philanthropic endeavours.

Diane von Furstenberg, born in 1946 to Jewish parents who survived the Holocaust, has often spoken of the profound influence her mother, Liliane Nahmias, had on her life and career. A member of the French Resistance, Nahmias was captured by the Nazis and spent 18 months in captivity. In her research for the exhibition, Thurston delved deeply into Nahmias’ story, recognising her resilience and freedom. “Liliane called Diane a torch that gave her life back,” Thurston explained. “That sense of freedom is central to Diane’s work and it’s something she’s always carried with her.” The exhibition thus connects the designer’s iconic fashion legacy to a deeper, personal history of survival and empowerment. While von Furstenberg’s marriage to Prince Egon von Furstenberg in 1969 is often mentioned, her drive for independence defined her career. In a 1977 interview with The New York Times, von Furstenberg revealed her desire for self-sufficiency, “The minute I knew I was about to become Egon’s wife, I decided to have a career,” she said.

Known for her confidence and camaraderie with other women, von Furstenberg quickly established herself as a designer of significance. As Thurston pointed out, while the wrap dress wasn’t a new invention, it marked a cultural shift in the 1970s, when women were entering the workforce in greater numbers. “At the time, women’s clothing was modelled after men’s suits—stiff, structured and buttoned up. Diane’s design was a revolution: a garment that celebrated a woman’s body while remaining professional and powerful,” Thurston explained. The wrap dress became a symbol of both sensuality and authority, a perfect reflection of the changing role of women in society.

The exhibition unfolds the designer’s journey through four thematic sections, each shedding light on a pivotal aspect of her career. The first section, The Wrap Dress, explores the creation and evolution of the iconic garment that became synonymous with von Furstenberg’s brand. Inspired by the wraparound tops worn by ballerinas in early 20th century Paris, the wrap dress began as a simple top before evolving into a dress. Over time, it featured numerous variations, from collars and cuffs to a partially sewn belt with loose ends.

The exhibit places signature designs alongside other key influences, such as the kimono and the Repetto wrap top, highlighting the wrap dress’ diverse cultural roots. One particularly striking comparison is with American designer Claire McCardell’s 1950s-era ‘popover dress’. McCardell’s design was versatile, meant for a woman balancing domestic chores and social engagements, while von Furstenberg’s dress symbolised a new kind of woman—one poised for board meetings and shareholder talks.

Thurston noted, “The way the [wrap] dress was marketed speaks to the shifting roles of women in such a short time. The exhibition also examines European designers like Madeleine Vionnet and Sonia Rykiel, showcasing how fabric and design were used to reflect women’s changing lifestyles and experiences.” Through this lens, the wrap dress can be viewed as a symbol of women’s evolving independence and empowerment.

The second section, titled Inspiration and Celebration, delves into the bold designs that defined von Furstenberg’s aesthetic, framed through three central themes: nature, art and freedom. A passionate traveller and nature lover, von Furstenberg often drew inspiration from organic forms, infusing her designs with vibrant, nature-inspired prints. Her dresses also became a canvas for her deep appreciation of 20th century art, reflecting influences from iconic figures like Salvador Dalí, Andy Warhol and Jackson Pollock. For instance, the exhibit showcases two dresses side by side that trace von Furstenberg’s evolving engagement with Pollock. One, from 1975, mirrors the scale and chaotic energy of Pollock’s strip paintings, while the other, from 2014, features a more abstract, enlarged version of his paint drips. This juxtaposition highlights how von Furstenberg reimagined and reinterpreted artistic influences over the decades, constantly revisiting her ideas with a fresh perspective. Additionally, the exhibition features Konstantin Kakanias’ Zodiac Collection, whose dreamy constellation prints also appear in some of von Furstenberg’s designs, further emphasising her playful and ever-evolving approach to fashion.

The third section, titled The American Dream, brings to life von Furstenberg’s iconic quote: “I came to America with a suitcase full of dresses and hope…thanks to the wrap dress, I lived the American Dream.” Set in 1972, this section captures the energy and diversity of New York fashion during the early 1970s. Under the bold exhibition sign—’When I landed in New York City in 1970, this was fashion’—visitors are immersed in the vibrant mix of maxi, midi and miniskirts, pants, crop tops and prints in bold patterns and colours. The garments reflect the eclectic styles that defined the city: from hippie-inspired looks to classic suits and glamorous evening wear, all designed by some of the era’s most influential designers.

The final section, WeAr(e)Able Stories, merges two concepts—“Wearable Stories” and “We Are Able”—to highlight von Furstenberg’s philanthropic work. Through photographs, newspaper clippings and personal memorabilia, the exhibition underscores the designer’s long-standing commitment to empowering women.

In her interview with STIR, Thurston reflected on the exhibition’s impact, particularly for women. “With over 65 garments on display, the exhibition offers an incredible selection,” she said. “Each room takes a deep dive into the dresses and the stories behind them. The title, Woman Before Fashion, is intentional. Diane believes that a woman’s life comes first—her experiences, her freedom—and fashion is there to help her live it to the fullest.” Through this lens, the exhibition not only celebrates von Furstenberg’s creative legacy but invites visitors to connect with her broader vision of empowerment and self-expression. Originally organised by the Fashion & Lace Museum in Brussels, the exhibition aptly marks its North American debut in Los Angeles, offering a glimpse into the life and influence of the Belgian-born designer, whose wrap dress revolutionised the way women dressed in the 1970s—and beyond.

‘Diane von Furstenberg: Woman Before Fashion’ runs at the Skirball Cultural Center in Los Angeles, California from October 17, 2024–August 31, 2025.