GCDS SS25 Says Show, Don’t Tell

Founded a decade ago by Italian brothers Giuliano and Giordano Calza, GCDS is not one to shy away from pop cultural references, and its SS25 show was no different. But in lieu of the label’s usual heavy prints and graphics, the line instead relied on fearless color and form-flattering silhouettes to convey its contemporary spunk.

The show opened with a blast of green looks, which immediately evoked the neon shade synonymous with Charli XCX’s 2024 Brat LP. One of many greened-out looks was worn by a model in a sheer mesh tank top and lustrous fur jeans, while another carried a hairy neon green duffle bag. Other decidedly bold color choices included a collegiate yellow, ultraviolet, and a hot Barbie pink. For some, the green turf and the sexy sporty ensembles may have immediately recalled Luca Guadagnino’s viral Challengers film, centering on a contentious tennis-playing throuple led by Zendaya. Nylon tracksuits and pleated mini skirts in shades of tennis ball green with titanium white seemed to double down on the message.

An extra deep V-neck body suit guided the eye downward between two straps of fabric, provoking an air of sexual tension. The V-neck shape was then remodeled on a sleeveless mesh bodysuit that narrowed toward the waistline to reveal the oblique region. High-exposure pieces were styled with active bottoms or bare mesh tights on one side of the spectrum, while elegant satin trousers and fishtail skirts comprised the other. If one wasn’t looking closely, they might have missed subtle Sanrio character appearances, including a yellow Hello Kitty bra and a black crochet tank with Badts Maru appliques on the straps.

Finally, the Charli XCX reference was confirmed by the closing song “Everything is Romantic,” a camp techno ballad that ends with a ceaseless repetition of “Fall in love, again, and again…” Even with a mixed bag of references, the use of smooth solid fabrics and sharp sexy lines ultimately made a concise statement for the Calza brothers, whose flair for maximalism has defined the brand until now.

See the full GCDS SS25 collection in the gallery above and stay tuned for more Milan Fashion Week coverage from Hypebeast.