Heightened hemlines and see-through shirts: menswear bares all at fashion week

The menswear shows in Milan and Paris have just wrapped and, in short, it was a vibe. The street style set were divided into two distinct style camps. On one side, there were the tailoring connoisseurs who opted for sharp suiting, polished footwear and natty accessories such as slick wide-framed sunglasses. On the other side was a more laissez-faire approach: think slouchy jeans, crinkled shirting and baseball caps galore.

But of course, it was the catwalks where the ultimate showdown played out. From teeny-tiny shorts to slogan T-shirts, here are the spring/summer ‘25 trends to note.

Short-shorts versus shorts

At Ami and Gucci shorts hovered around the three-inch mark. On the Gucci front row the Irish actor Paul Mescal even endorsed the short-shorts trend in a striped cotton boxer-esque pair. Meanwhile, at Neil Barrett and Dior shorts fell to just above models’ knees. Choose your fighter.

In bloom

Giorgio Armani’s show was set against the video backdrop of wafting palm fronds, setting the tone for a collection that featured softly focused photographic prints of palm trees and ferns on silky pyjama-esque sets and loosely cut T-shirts. At Dior, Kim Jones took inspiration from the work of the South African ceramicist Hylton Nel: a neat collarless jacket featuring a blue-and-white floral motif that required more than 600 hours of hand-beading was akin to an heirloom vase placed pride of place on a mantelpiece. Meanwhile, the British designer Grace Wales Bonner chose to celebrate the work of the Trinidadian textile artist Althea McNish, who was known for her vibrant floral patterns.

Optical illusions

“All is not what it seems,” explained Loewe’s creative director Jonathan Anderson backstage. Models wore what appeared to be cable-knit jumpers and T-shirts but were in fact painted to give the appearance of knitwear. Another model looked as if they were battling the elements as the hem of their trenchcoat appeared to fly up, but it was wired to defy gravity. There was a similar fraudulent mood at Prada where low-slung belts on trousers were in fact belt motifs. Contrasting coloured collars that peeked out from neat jumpers were stitched to look as if they were separate pieces, while wired cuffs made collars and cuffs purposefully messy. “Today, fake is a very contemporary point,” mused Miuccia Prada backstage. “What is fake? What is the truth?”

Sporting heroes

With the Olympic Games fast approaching, some designers were in a sporty mood. Backstage at the Fendi show its creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi pointed to an old photograph pinned to her mood board of the Italian national football squad en route to the 1984 European football championship. She zoned in on the crest on their suit jackets, creating her own in-house motif that was emblazoned on cricket jumpers and blazers with padded shoulders. Other looks had a distinct 80s golf vibe, with checked trousers and jackets styled with baseball caps. At Louis Vuitton in Paris, Pharrell Williams set out to celebrate “human athletic prowess”. There were shirts with LVFC written across them and a monogrammed LV bag shaped like a football, while other jackets had a motocross theme.

Loosen up

While tailoring still dominated the catwalks, this time around it came with a relaxed rather than overly formal feel. In Milan, Neil Barrett showed navy and charcoal trousers with a knife-sharp pleat down the centre that juxtaposed with their casual cuts. Giorgio Armani, a pioneer of soft tailoring, leaned into his original aesthetic with loosely pleated trousers that were reminiscent of his early 80s collections. Meanwhile, at Loewe there were bulbous trousers that almost had a sponge-like texture. Anderson mused on their practically. Good news – they don’t require ironing.

All white

In bad news for coffee drinkers, monochrome white looks were everywhere. They mainly came in the guise of coordinated workwear-inspired pieces. Kim Jones riffed on chore jackets in porcelain whites, while at Sacai there were military field jackets and utility-inspired trousers. Rick Owens even swapped his standard all-black palette for an entire white collection. An impactful albeit impractical colour choice for those of us who like to eat spaghetti/take public transport.

Mesh moments

Forget demure rollnecks and T-shirts, the new way to style unbuttoned blazers and jackets is flashing flesh. At Gucci, oversized suits and coording short sets were teamed with mesh polo shirts. Louis Vuitton’s opening looks including tailored blazers and thin cardigans placed over sheer LV-branded tops. For those not wishing to bare so much, take your cues from Amiri, which teamed delicate lace shirts over thermal-esque white vests.

All tied up

The necktie discourse continued during SS25 collections, with playful styling on show. Fendi’s traditional club ties were pinned, while Wooyoungmi – a South Korean menswear brand – placed chunky necklaces over the top of theirs. Meanwhile, Martine Rose leaned into the novelty category with Bugs Bunny and dolphin motifs.

Spell it out

Slogan T-shirts and jumpers aren’t going anywhere. Jonathan Anderson unveiled a collaboration with Guinness at his eponymous label JW Anderson – knitted crew neck sweaters featured the brand’s distinctive vintage iconography including its smiling moon face, this time in beaded pearls. Elsewhere, for his first menswear show for Moschino, Adrian Appiolaza featured a line uttered previously by its founder, Franco Moschino: “It’s better to dress as you wish than as you should,” on a simple white T-shirt. Over at Dior, Kim Jones put his own spin on Francis Bacon’s bon mot, with tote bags and knitted sweatshirts emblazoned with “Dior for my real friends”.

High shine

Proving that metallics aren’t just for the festive season, designers sent pieces that shimmered and shined down their spring catwalks. At Amiri and Dior, coats and jackets came with a dusting of sequins and paillettes. Rick Owens’s “White Satin Army of Love” show featured 200 models and included distressed metallic jackets that had a vintage feel. Meanwhile, Dries van Noten closed the chapter on his self-titled brand that he launched more than 30 years ago by celebrating his signature shimmering aesthetic. Utility jackets and shirting came in diaphanous fabrics in jewel-like tones. There were also glistening trench coats and double-breasted jackets. Shine on.

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