How Las Vegas became the entertainment capital of the world (again)

But Vegas’ new vibe is more than that. Venture away from the noise and neon of the Strip, closer to downtown, and you’ll find the Arts District, an area of 18 blocks described by locals as “the only walking neighbourhood in Vegas.” It’s lately become a bona fide dining destination, with lively bars such as Velveteen Rabbit and Garagiste standing between queue-worthy restaurants including Palate and barbecue spot SoulBelly. The assorted galleries and vibrant street art bring authenticity to a place you’d never expect to feel it – perfect for when you need a break from the casinos.

As one flight attendant said as we landed: what happens in Vegas only happens in Vegas.

How to get there

Virgin Atlantic flies daily, direct from Heathrow and has also added three flights a week from Manchester. Upper Class – with fully reclining beds, a well-stocked bar and choice of menu – will help ensure that you’re ready to hit the Strip straight from the arrivals hall.

Where to stay

The Strip’s newest hotel, the Fontainebleau, gleams on the skyline like a static wave. Announced in 2005, it finally opened in late 2023 after years of delays. It’s the sister venue to the famous Miami hotel – an icon of ’60s and ’70s South Beach that had cameos in Goldfinger and The Bodyguard – and offers the same luxury, with equally jazzy art deco-inspired interiors.

The hotel’s focus is entertainment, and it’s already hosted the Smashing Pumpkins and Post Malone. But there’s no need to ride out the post-gig hangover from bed. Even with a headache, you can lose yourself in this 25-acre property: go for a baroque biker personal rebrand at the Chrome Hearts boutique, while away a spare hour in the sports memorabilia museum, or try hair of the dog Vegasstyle at one of the hotel’s eight bars. fontainebleaulasvegas.com

24 hours in Las Vegas’ Arts District

Morning: The Punk Rock Museum

Opened in 2023, the museum was largely funded by “Fat Mike” Burkett of ’90s California punk band NOFX, and most of the items on display – including amps, ticket stubs, clothing and handwritten lyrics – are from private collections. Its jam room houses the guitars of musicians from Joan Jett to Rancid, and for the biggest fans, members of groups like Bad Religion and Silverstein host guest tours every week.

Lunch: Esther’s Kitchen