I Drove Thailand’s Mae Hong Son Loop on a Motorbike — Here’s Why It Was One of the Best Things I Did in the Country

There are some trips you’re probably only meant to do in your 20s. At least, that’s what I was thinking back in 2022 in Thailand’s Mae Hong Son province. The engine screamed on the 110cc magenta-pink Honda Scoopy as my husband forced it up the switchbacks of the mountains in northwestern Thailand, cars passing us with ease as he went full throttle. I, 34 at the time, was hunched over him on the back with the one backpack for the two of us wedged between his feet. I swore the drivers were all laughing at us from their air-conditioned, multi-horsepower chariots, but he insisted I was seeing things.

We were driving the Mae Hong Son Loop, a nearly 400-mile route that begins and ends in Chiang Mai and travels along the mountain roads of Mae Hong Son, Thailand’s most northwestern province. There was never a plan to do the road trip. I had never even heard of it until a few weeks before we ventured out. I learned about it from a traveler I’d met on an island tour in Krabi. He told me it was the most memorable thing he had done so far during his own Thailand adventure. He was 26.

Still, we welcomed the adventure. My husband is a retired infantry soldier, and I have many years of backpacking experience in Asia, Mexico, and Europe, so off we went to Chiang Mai to rent a scooter for 200 Thai baht per day for a week-long motorbike trip up into the remote mountains of Thailand.

The Mae Hong Son Loop is a scenic 375-mile drive from Chiang Mai to the city of Mae Hong Son and back again. A far cry from other more popular destinations like Bangkok, Phuket, and Chiang Mai, it’s still a well-known rite of passage for backpackers in Thailand. The route meanders through relaxed towns like Mae Sariang and Pai, climbing in elevation along hairpin switchbacks — nearly 2,000 of them. The landscape along the way is spectacular, passing mountain forests, descending into misty jungles, and crossing over lush rice fields with a backdrop of purple-and-green peaks looming in the distance the entire journey.

Driving the Mae Hong Son Loop

You can hire a taxi or a driver to take you to each destination. That would be the easier, more comfortable approach. But arguably the best way to tackle the loop is to drive yourself. Renting a car is also much more convenient. Or, you can do what we did and hire a sputtering motorbike built for one for the journey.

Like most tourist destinations in Thailand, Chiang Mai is rife with motorbike rental shops. The one we chose rented our trusty steed for 200 Thai baht, which, at the time, was about $5.25 per day.

A word of advice: Motorbikes can be dangerous. Some may tell you you don’t need motorbike experience to drive the Mae Hong Son Loop, but that would be unwise. The road is challenging, with hundreds of hairpin turns and cars that, while infrequent, speed past. If you’re opting to rent a motorbike, make sure you’re with someone who is experienced and always wear a helmet.

The Perfect Mae Hong Son Loop Itinerary

This circular loop will take you 12 hours to drive but to do it justice, budget four days at minimum. A week is the ideal amount of time to complete the trip at a relaxed pace.

You can drive the loop in either direction. We went clockwise, starting in Chiang Mai and stopping in Mae Sariang, Mae Hong Son, and Pai. We also tacked on an extra night as we wanted to reach the summit of Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest peak. This adds a few extra hours, particularly if your vehicle maxes out at 25 miles per hour on hills.

Night 1: Doi Inthanon National Park

Doi Inthanon National Park is stunning. Hiking trails pass through tropical evergreen, pine, and cloud forests. You’ll see deep canyons, plunging waterfalls, and beautiful bursts of flower blossoms. The summit viewpoint has two spectacular stupas, each surrounded by vibrant gardens. The king and queen chedis were gifts from the Royal Thai Air Force to the late king and queen. They stand at nearly 200 feet tall.

Accommodations near the park are rustic. Most visitors camp, but there are glamping, homestay, and guesthouse options. You can also skip this part of the itinerary and head straight to Mae Sariang.

Nights 2 and 3: Mae Sariang

After departing Chiang Mai, the next stopping point is Mae Sariang, a crossroads town humming with other loopers. Surrounded by bright green rice paddies and sliced by the Yuma River, bucolic Mae Sariang was a highlight. The town is home to many ethnic groups across Asia, including the Karen and Lawa peoples. The markets and shops are treasure troves for textiles, crafts, and art. Outdoor adventure is abundant, too, from hill treks to Salawin National Park. Mae Sariang is also at the doorstep of several temples, including Wat Jong Soong and the mountaintop Wat Phra That Si Chom Thong.

If you have time for one meal in Mae Sariang, make sure it’s at Coriander in Redwood, an airy restaurant overlooking a lovely garden and serving fantastic Thai food (think: spicy pork larb, grilled pork with a fiery cucumber salad, noodles, rice, and everything in between). After dinner, catch the sunset as it dips behind the mountains, bathing the jade-green rice fields in liquid gold.

Night 4: Mae Hong Son

From Mae Sariang, continue to Mae Hong Son, but along the way, there are a few stops to make. If you’re driving between mid-November and early December, pass the Thung Bua Tong Fields, rolling green hillsides carpeted in wild sunflowers. Or, venture a bit further from the main trail to see the Mae Surin Waterfall, a ribbon of rushing water plunging into the lush jungles of Namtok Mae Surin National Park.

Mae Hong Son is the province’s capital, though with a population of less than 10,000, it feels more like a large town than a city. Like the rest of the province, Mae Hong Son is a mishmash of cultures, from the Shan to Karen and Lahu to Hmong peoples. The lovely streets are lined with traditional wooden houses, with local shops, buzzy cafes, and coffee shops. Get a lay of the land with a visit to Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu, a hilltop temple with sweeping countryside views. Sunset is the best time to ascend the hill for misty vistas across the valleys.

If you have the time — and I suggest you budget for it — take a day trip from Mae Hong Son to Ban Rak Thai. Founded in the late 1940s by Kuomintang soldiers, this village is a slice of Yunnan province tucked in the mountains of Thailand. It was established directly after the Communist takeover of China, and much of its population speaks Mandarin. You can munch on steam pot chicken, stir-fried mushrooms, and sour bamboo shoots while sipping locally grown oolong tea from its many teahouses.

Nights 5 and 6: Pai

We decided to close the loop in Pai, which I had heard was known for its bohemian backpacker village vibes. I found Pai catered largely to a much younger crowd, but you can manage to avoid the heavy bar scene and Western restaurants if you know where to look.

The once laid-back town is fascinating and beautiful. Nestled in the mountains, Pai’s color palette vibrates with every shade of green. Ascend the Yun Lai Viewpoint at sunrise for romantic mist-shrouded views over the valley. Famous attractions like the Pam Bok Waterfall and the historic Bamboo Bridge, which crosses rice fields, are nearby.

Pai is bursting with restaurants, from hole-in-the-wall local favorites to the more ubiquitous pub-style establishments. You can also find coffee shops, vegan restaurants, and mediocre Italian and Mexican food. We loved Om Garden Cafe for breakfast and the Blue Ox for dinner. Pai’s night market starts seven nights a week along its walking street, humming with craft stalls and street food. The beauty of Pai’s downtown is that it’s condensed and easy to navigate on foot or bicycle.

We stayed at The Quarter Hotel, just a bit outside downtown. The resort is designed like a small village, with bungalow-style rooms, a lovely central pool, and an open-air restaurant overlooking lush green gardens. But experts have told me the riverside Reverie Siam is the most “luxurious” hotel in Pai, with just a handful of rooms and a vintage, late 19th-century aesthetic.

Night 7: Chiang Mai

The drive back to Chiang Mai from Pai takes roughly three hours. Leaving the valley behind, we climbed back into the mountain forests, navigating challenging switchbacks for the first two hours. The final hour was flat and straight as we headed back into the fast-paced energy of Chiang Mai.

Driving into Chiang Mai feels like repatriation to the 21st century. After six days in the mountains with nothing but the sound of birds and rivers (and the whining of an exhausted motorbike engine), it was a culture shock to come back to traffic lights and cell service.

We happily collected our suitcases from the guesthouse where we stored them, and I relished in fresh pants, a face mask, and a luxe vacation rental with a rooftop pool. Perhaps it was good we made this trip in our 30s. We weren’t so far removed from our 20s that we couldn’t appreciate the spontaneity and adventure, but now we had the budget to reward ourselves with a bit of luxury when it was over.