I tried fashion trends from bubble hem skirts to corset saris on Indian streets—here’s what happened

For Aabha Pusalkar, a Mumbai-based skincare entrepreneur, body type and living environments matter more than any trends. “It’s extremely hot and sticky here, so I prefer cotton, linen and silk chiffon in both baggy and fitted styles, but I’ll add hair bows or gold chains and earrings, or mini bags.”Pusalkar follows fashion creators like Amrita Thakur and Ikisvon Jamang. She is glad skinny jeans are gone and early 2000s trends are back. She is especially thrilled by the rise of that desi diaspora vibe that “mixes rich, traditional elements like Madras checks, bandhini, zari work or bindis with contemporary, sometimes rebellious, touches like oversized jackets or grunge-inspired layering. That No Borders aesthetic really tells a story of belonging and memory, but is a bold, fluid expression of identity that doesn’t shy away from honouring one’s lineage.”

“People usually say I’m not dressed for the weather, which is true,” says Selman Fazil, a Mumbai-based stylist. “I’ve become better post-covid, but I still only enjoy an outfit when it makes me uncomfortable.” Fazil, who likes to pair skirts with chunky loafers, formal menswear and bold accessories is used to the awe and judgement his looks elicit. “Delhi is still shocked to see men in skirts,” he laughs. “But heels at the airport are my favourite. The security guards get a little intimidated. I like to scare people.”

Plus, a viral trend is called viral for a reason. “They’re everywhere—shopping websites, celebrities, influencers, magazines—and the constant exposure means either I’ll go buy something related to one, or I’ll finally dig out the cheetah print shirt from the back of my closet that I’ve been avoiding for a few years now,” says Preetha Stephen, a New York-based artist who is currently on the hunt for an oversized wrap coat.

She’s tried embracing Chloe’s boho glam redux and decided it wasn’t for her, but she does like to blend the classic with a dash of daring. “New York allows space for more individual style,” she says. “Maybe I’ve finally learnt to dress for my body, or maybe I’ve lost a few pounds and things look better on me now. Fashion has become my armour.”

Indeed, dressing up can feel like carrying a shield—one that even the most unwavering eyeballs cannot pierce. I slip on an ankle-length blush pink dress from SWGT for a breezy evening walk in the Mumbai suburb of Bandra. I’ve subdued my coastal grandma vibe with white stockings, mesh ballet flats and ribbons. There are plenty of stares: the “I wonder where she got that dress from?” and, of course, the “Why is she wearing a quilt in this heat?” For lunch and art gallery hopping in the culture vulture neighbourhood of Colaba, I put my XL frame into a blue-green plaid dress with artful cut-outs worn over pants from NorBlack NorWhite that can flatter a number of body shapes. Someone near a chai shop says something about a tablecloth loudly in Marathi, but I’m channelling my NRI Brooklyn babe via Gwen Stefani circa 1995 in my mind—bindis, multiple gold earrings and Gully Lab sneakers—so I know someone, somewhere will get it (they do, on Instagram).