‘It’ girls in dad looks: the return of overalls, cargo pants and chore coats

Indeed as noted by Harper’s Bazaar, the chore jacket, originally the sturdy twill uniform of labourers in 19th century France, has become something of a default uniform for fashion week attendees. Nobody wore it better than the late and legendary original street style photographer Bill Cunningham, whose bright blue version was his signature look. Now everyone from Loewe to French girl go-to Sézane and cult label Bode has a version.

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Cargo trousers have shaken off their suburban dad and 90s girl band associations (well, sort of, but in a good way!) and popped up on recent runways everywhere. This includes neon and peach silky versions at Fendi, and khaki and army green jumpsuits at Saint Laurent spring 2024, inspired by the label’s signature safari jacket. The real appeal? Well, who doesn’t want more pockets?

When it comes to actually working in workwear-influenced clothes, Carhartt recently launched a workwear range for women earlier this year. Not that women weren’t already wearing it, the brand having long gone well beyond its workwear origins in 1899 into streetwear, music and skate cultures. The range includes Tencel sweatshirts and T-shirts and the brand plans to expand the offering into other categories such as denim.

The waxed Barbour jacket, mainstay of posh welly-wearing, hunting and horsey toffs in the countryside and muddy-gumboot festival goers alike, this year celebrates its 100th anniversary by being more coveted than ever. Cool girl brands such as Ganni and Erdem have collaborated with Barbour, injecting a sense of playfulness into the practical all-terrain jacket. And indeed, ultimate cool girl Alexa Chung has done several collaborations with the brand.

The report predicts the category will embrace a “quiet outdoor” aesthetic transformation with consumers seeking less garish colours and instead coveting minimal logos and elevated designs, but still in technical fabrics.

Heather Gramston, senior head of womenswear and menswear buying at luxury retailer Browns Fashion, says it makes sense that elevated utilitarian workwear staples have made a resurgence.

“Workwear pieces and overalls especially seem to reappear within fashion’s trend cycles every few years and it’s easy to imagine why as they’re both comfortable and versatile,” she says.

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Gramston believes the shift fits with how people want to dress now too.

“After a few seasons of partywear dominating post lockdown, customers are looking for a middle ground, which workwear is a great fit for as they have endless styling options. Just think of a chic pair of overalls paired with a waxed jacket or cargo pants that can be styled with everything from trainers to heels or ballet flats, for example,” she says.

Gramston says to look to brands such as R13 for what she describes as expertly distressed workwear pieces, Acne Studios for oversized bombers and denim jackets, and Agolde for cargo jeans.

“Each of these pieces can be considered new wardrobe essentials and can be styled in so many different ways,” she says.

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Richard Jarman, creative director of Australian luxury resort label Commas, also likes how workwear staples can be reimagined.

“Workwear silhouettes serve as an ideal foundation for outerwear with the boxy and masculine shapes. My focus is creating garments for travel, ensuring they embody a certain aesthetic, and also serve a practical purpose. The drape of linen and intricate bouclé embroidery detailing transforms the Commas Chore Jacket into something quite special,” he says.

As for how to wear the look without feeling like you really should be putting in a hard day’s work when actually you’re off to cocktails?

“The beauty of the trend is that anything goes but accessories are key for wearing the look in an elevated way. Whether you’re wearing denim overalls or workwear jeans with a logo tee or a classic knit, the details from jewellery to the choice of footwear and bags can really upgrade the look and tailor it for the occasion,” says Gramston.