Even before the models hit the floor, the strums of guitar floating through the hallways of a hotel particulier hinted that Johanna Ortiz’s spring collection would have musical influences.
The Colombian designer looked to the flamenco style for subtle shifts in her silhouette, including a three-tiered ruffle skirt that recalled the shape of a dancer’s traditional traje. Sleeves were long and billowing, and shawls were interpreted with casual draping tossed over the shoulder, adding a bit of boho.
Much of the collection was about movement. “I envisioned someone having a good time and dancing, and how the draping of the fabrics would flow and move like part of the body,” she said.
Ortiz also added layers of beading on palm-tree print skirts that had a music of their own as they swooshed down the runway, and added sequin detailing on others for layered shine. She often works with embroidery and raffia to give texture to her prints; this season’s bugle beading and paillettes added another dimension of volume.
Jade and fern greens popped against her calming color palette of warm neutrals, such as chocolate and mahogany.
Her four-story New York flagship and headquarters opened in June, which houses two levels of retail and various rooms dedicated to gowns, ready-to-wear, resort, swim and her homewares. It’s an immersion experience dipping into the Ortiz universe, and has allowed for more direct contact with customers.
Categories such as coats have been a request. “I can ask, ‘What does the Johanna Ortiz woman want? What do they need from me as a designer?’ and it’s been really nice,” she said.
Next will be a series of pop-ups in Bal Harbour and Palm Beach, Fla. With her focus on fun and wearability, Ortiz continues to hit the right notes.
