Junya Watanabe SS25 Cracks the Semi-Formal Code

Japanese designer Junya Watanabe presented his Spring/Summer 2025 collection during Paris Fashion Week. Watanabe continues to show his fascination with punk culture and its rebellious fashion, breaking the mold of tradition. On the theme of breaking tradition, Junya Watanabe transforms conventional tuxedos and suits, incorporating his signature patchwork detailing to the pieces.

Cracking the code to semi-formal, tuxedos were revisited with denim and tartan patchwork. The first 25 looks focuses on the modern suiting, slowly transitioning from classic suit features to denim-on-denim iterations. Black and grey patchwork made with various fabrics piece together the classic notch lapel tuxedo, highlighting contrasting stitching and Junya Watanabe’s signature red plaid. Classic tuxedo jackets are paired with denim trousers before transitioning to double-breasted denim tuxedo jackets featuring plaid patchwork to match. With the patchwork details, the tuxedos become a semi-formal staple.

Other pieces in the collection include tuxedo dress shirts that have also received the patchwork treatment, keeping with the semi-formal theme. Closing out the collection, hybrid silk scarf and punk rock t-shirts paying homage to rock bands like Scorpions and Black Sabbath. All white denim suits taper off the collection for SS25

Take a look at the full collection above.