Local designers share vision and purpose in fashion

S1: Welcome in San Diego , it’s Jade Hindman. On today’s show , fast fashion is polluting the environment , especially beaches around the globe. We’ll tell you how locals are using their creativity to upcycle fabrics into unique fashions. This is KPBS Midday Edition. Connecting our communities through conversation. Fashion can be a way to express yourself or celebrate your culture. It can also promote sustainability. One person’s clothing scraps are another designer’s art palette , and Claudia Rodriguez Bismark holds the needle and thread. In 2013 , she opened a sewing shop and studio in Barrio Logan called Sew Loca. Claudia , welcome to Midday Edition. Thank you.

S2: Thank you for having me.

S1: So glad to have you here. So tell me about the vision for So Loca.

S2: Well , the vision for So Loca is it’s a it’s big. It’s really big. Um , we are a workshop space but we also a third of our space is retail. So everything that is made in the studio is then sold in that third of the space. And we really wanted to create this inclusive space , right , where we can teach people how to be more sustainable within their own clothes , show them alternatives of what could happen to their clothes that they don’t love anymore , and really creating that inclusive environment of belonging to something.

S1: Yeah , well.

S2: Right ? I’m one of six kids , and I really wanted to have all the cool punk rock clothes because I was in the punk scene and , uh , being one of six kids , um , it wasn’t really accessible for my parents to do back to school shopping or any of that stuff. But what was accessible is a garage full of sewing machines. And so my mom was like , we’ll go to the thrift store , we’ll cut up things , and then you could have really cool , fun stuff. And so I really got into the sustainability more out of necessity. And I feel as a Mexican American , we were always kind of taught sustainability , right ? Like we’ve always put our salsa in like that butter container and , you know , recycled everything. And so I really feel that that was what really drove me into wanting to have really cool clothes.

S1: Nice see from my family , that country crock container spaghetti. Exactly. Always spaghetti in there.

S2: I love it.

S1: Well , I mean , you know , it seems everyone is thrifting and upcycling now.

S2: I feel , oh my God , I get so passionate about this. Sorry. Um , I feel that , um , it gives you , like , a really good footing inside of that industry , right ? Becoming more accessible. Clothing has become a little bit more accessible , but also wanting to have like identity. Right. And so going to a thrift store , you’re not going to find more than just one. You’re going to just find that one and you can make it really special. You don’t have that guilt of cutting it up , getting it tailored , all that stuff. And so I I’m so happy that more people are shopping secondhand , because there was a time where it wasn’t the cool thing to do.

S1:

S3: Some tags. We got $20 in my pocket.

S1: Thrift shop. That’s it. I think that so. Made it. Made it popular ? Yes. Um , well , what role do you think social media plays in eco friendly fashion trends ? Gigantic.

S2: Gigantic role. So right now I am working at Arts a reason to Survive a national City. I love that organization for many reasons , but I teach sewing there to high school kids and it’s an after school program. I’m always very mindful and I’m a great listener. I want to hear what people need and how I could fill that void , and understanding that that younger demographic was really interested in the thrift flip , you know ? And so I was like , I’m going to meet my kids where they want to learn how to show. And that was with the thrift flip. And so right now we have a ten week program where I teach kids sustainability through sewing. And it’s a lot of fun because I feel like that is the easiest way of getting into sewing where something’s already made. And maybe you’ll have to make these small adjustments , and it gives you that sense of pride of like being able to have this outfit that you made. someone is always going to compliment you on it , and then you’re going to have that sense of pride of like , I made this and that. Like I feel like that’s like the perfect time to get into that industry and then really start to get , you know , excited and want to continue to build off of that. So building confidence through sewing through the thrift loop.

S1:

S2: I didn’t go to school for any of this kind of stuff , but I was always very I’ve always been a very curious person , and I feel like sometimes we come across people that might want to gatekeeper some things. And for me , it was one of those things where I was like , why would I want to gate keep all this information ? Sewing is like a very vast world. I’m not intimidated by someone wanting to learn how to show. I actually want to be that person. That could break it down and very simplify it for you and give you all the resources.

S1: Right ? And and I mean , you , you have an opportunity to make such like an Individual piece. Yes , something totally different and style it. So that’s that’s really cool. I think that’s a cool very.

S2: I feel like you get that sense of pride , you know , because I had this experience when I was like 12 and I was walking in the mall and I thought I was like , so cool. And I had like this really cool tank top. And then someone right across the hall was wearing the same tank top , but she was an older woman , more developed. And so I felt like who wore it better ? And I didn’t like that , you know , it really made me feel like I wasn’t good enough to wear that tank top. And so I having that trauma , you know , really , like , allowed for me to think about , like , hey , I want to create pieces that are as individual as that person that’s wearing it. And for them to feel like this was created specifically for me. And that does make us feel a little bit better about ourselves.

S1: Yeah , yeah , I tell you , we’ve all had moments like that. I know.

S2: I know , unfortunately.

S1: Well , you know , it’s not all about what we do with our clothes. Once we get them , it starts at the resource. So I want to talk about a statewide bill that just passed the Responsible Textile Recovery Act. It requires producers to come up with a plan for recycling or reusing garments. Talk to me about that.

S2: Yes , I’m very excited about that because , you know , for us , we’ve been doing it for such a really long time. I mean , that is something that has been part of like who I am for a really long time. And so the fact that California gets to create like such a gigantic impact , you know , in textile waste , for me , I’m like , whoa , this is gigantic for us because it really allows for manufacturers to basically be able to take in all that used clothes , blankets , curtains , things like that , and recycle it appropriately. And we’re really excited about that because it is taking accountability for all this waste that we’re producing. We need to be accountable for all that stuff. We can’t just kind of like , you know , give it to someone and pass it on. It’s like , how do we create , you know , these programs that really allow us to be educated , right ? Because education with textile waste is so important. It’s educating people , not shaming them for these decisions. And I understand that a lot of the times , you know , convenience and time is one of those things where people usually tend to lean on for , you know , purchasing goods , things like that. And so this really allows for us to really think about why , why this bill is really important and how this is going to change and how we are going to be that change.

S1: Yeah , yeah. I don’t think people realize how big of a problem textile waste is. And you know , earlier , earlier we talked about the power of social media. Yes , when it comes to eco friendly clothing and fashion , but it could also be blamed on fast fashion. Yes. Tell me about that.

S2: There’s so many things about fast fashion , right ? It’s like that. Need to want more. Wanting more is obviously one of those things where it’s like , I want to have options , I get it , we all want to have options. We all want to be able to have , you know , things that are very inexpensive. But what it created was it created a lot of clothes. And most of this clothes ends up in a landfill. And so it’s really mindful to think about where your clothes is coming from and like what is the true cost , because you might go on to like one of those websites and then see it and be like , wow , it’s only $5. But the real cost isn’t that price tag. The real cost is like , you know , polluting our waterways , um , creating like climate change. And I feel that fast fashion really takes advantage of of women in other countries. And , you know , it’s nice to look cute in an outfit and all that kind of stuff.

S1:

S2: So for a lot of reasons , I’ve , you know , having that experience as a 12 year old at the mall was like so traumatizing for me that I really wanted to create goods that we’re going to be individual , you know , where it could speak for you without you even having to speak where it has phrases that maybe for a really long time , we kind of didn’t want to be so proud of creating those kind of things for me , where for a really long time I always thought , like , I want people to like , see me and then understand that I’m a creative , you know , and like , and that was like something where I was like , oh , I want to be like a creative person when I grow up. what does that look like ? And so for me , like , maybe someone doesn’t love this print , but maybe I could turn it into something that , like , I could love. It’s all about like the things that make me happy instead of like the things that someone is telling me that should be making me happy. And so I feel like a lot of those kind of , you know , the design process is based on , on like comfort for me. And , you know , that ability of being able to wear something and know that no one else is wearing it. Right.

S1: Well , and you touched on this , but fashion is also a way to honor culture. How has that been a tool for you throughout your life and now through So Loca , who for.

S2: A lot of reasons. So I um , when I was growing up , there wasn’t a lot of representation. Right. And so I always felt like if there was representation when I was growing up , it would have been one of those things where I feel like I could have achieved more and I could have dreamt bigger , but there wasn’t. So for me , like being able to , like , have representation in my clothes where , you know , I have some stuff that says brown af. I have stuff that says Marina , I have , you know , where you have that sense of pride of like being like , hey , I am this darker shade of brown , but I’m proud of that , you know ? And so different things like that where I really like to incorporate traditional whipless and traditional embroidery into , like my designs , to have that representation of streetwear , you know , where you wouldn’t usually like , see , then you’re like , oh , that was a table mat. And then all of a sudden you made it into like a really cool jacket. And so , you know , those are all like things where , you know , you could see it and if that is your culture , you’re going to recognize it and you’re going to be like , wow , we we can mold , you know , these things into what we would like to see them as. Yeah.

S1: Yeah. Well , I mean , in fashion isn’t just , you know , the clothes you wear. It’s everything down to the little details like makeup and jewelry. How do those accessories celebrate identity too. Oh my. Goodness.

S2: Goodness. So , um.

S1:

S2: So I was talking to my sister earlier today , and I have a 12 year old that keeps taking my eyeliner. And I was telling her , I’m like , hey , I got this interview and I can’t show up without eyeliner. Are you kidding me ? Like , I gotta , I gotta make sure it’s nice and sharp. And I feel like that has has since I remembered. You know , I would have my older sister , um , because she had more of a steady hand put eyeliner on me , and that was like a huge identity for , you know , being first generation Mexican-American Chicana. And I feel like eyeliner and especially that wing has been such a representation of just sleekness having it be like so precise is like it’s just one of those things where it’s like , it’s almost like status , you know , because you’re like , you have a nice steady hand. Yeah. But also that gold jewelry. Right. And so having gold jewelry on , like our brown skin is like the ultimate , like cherry on top. And so , you know , whoops , you know , all that stuff. And I feel like definitely tattoos , tattoos have been one of those things where you got the Virgin Mary , you got a Sacred Heart , you got things like that that like really like represent us as , as as people and individuals.

S1: I love that.

S2: Thank you.

S1: I’m like the same way about lipstick. Yes. Must have lipstick. It’s just a celebration , you know it is.

S2: It’s taught me a lot. I just recently completed a ten by ten denim tapestry that is at the Science Fleet Center right now , and it was a community effort that taught me so much about myself. I’m usually not the one to ask for help. And the beautiful thing is that my community always shows up for me. I feel like it’s such a beautiful thing , especially during a time where we kind of feel isolated and we’re all going through our own personal things. And so I feel like for me , like creating that very inclusive environment and people coming in and sharing their stories and talking about how their mom used to show their grandma used to sew. And for me , I’m like , oh , I get to be like this comforting thing for you. And that really has been so gigantically impactful for me , for my family. Yeah.

S1: Yeah. Well , before we go , do you have any advice for someone just getting started in this ? Yes.

S2: Just start for me , the way that I started was like I was just cutting things and then sewing them together. And I feel like that exploration phase is like such a fun place to be. And I say with sewing , there’s no right or wrong way of doing it. It’s an expression of one’s self. The more time you invest in it , the better you’re going to get. So it’s like , don’t expect perfection , just start. And if you need advice , please come and visit. We’re trying to have more open studio time in the studio for people to just come in and hang out , and.

S1: So that is excellent. I’ve been speaking with Claudia Rodriguez Brzezinski. She’s the clothing designer behind Sew Loca , a sewing studio and shop in Barrio Logan. Claudia , thank you so much.

S2: No , thank you for having me.

S1: Coming up , a local fashion designer uses her needle and thread to make unique pieces with unique fabrics.

S2: At that time.

S1: Welcome back to midday Edition. I’m Jade Hindman. Today , we’re highlighting local designers who are stitching sustainability and representation into their craft. Our next guest is also teaching local students about the importance of those goals. You might recognize Ashley Tipton’s name from her victory in season 14 of Project Runway. She also happens to be a local designer and an instructor at Palmore College’s Fashion merchandising and design program. Ashley , welcome to the show. Hi.

S4: Hi.

S1: So excited to talk about this. And glad to have you here.

S4: Ever since I was a little girl , my grandmother taught me how to sew when I was about eight years old , and I always had this passion for fashion. It sounds so cliche , but I always loved looking at what people put on and how they put outfits together. And being a plus size teenager , I didn’t have , um , resources of clothing that was fashionable in my size , so I always felt like I was trapped in this bubble. And then once I was able to afford buying my own clothing , then that’s when my imagination started running wild on , like , what can I wear ? Or what can I put pieces together ? And I remembered my grandmother taught me how to sew. She gave me her sewing machine. Let’s start putting things together. And so by the time I was in high school , I was like , I think this is what I want to do.

S1:

S4: I have and and the love for like the 1950s and 60s. And so I think just being able to try on different things , like being a teenager , not having clothing , I was always stuck in the men’s department finding clothing. So I had to make men’s clothing somehow look feminine or have my own style in it. So I think I was really challenged as a teenager to find my own style and not follow what is being trend. Yeah.

S5: Yeah.

S1:

S4: So relaxed and. Sorry , it’s it can be boring. Back then. I feel like now it’s starting to change. But , um , back then , what inspired me was to go against the grain and be different than what everyone else was wearing. So when everyone was super relaxed , I was wearing fun and bright prints and just not really caring what people thought.

S1: Well , as we mentioned before , you were the the winner of season 14 of Project Runway. Humblebrag.

S4: Um , I felt like all the hard work that I’ve ever done in my life to fight against what people have told me that I couldn’t do , I felt like it finally paid off. And then it also felt like I was the leader of this plus size community. I was our voice because finally people were being able to see a plus size body designing , plus size clothing on television , and that had never been done. And also to be going down New York Fashion Week as well. It was like so many things that I was hitting that I was like , finally , finally , everything that I’ve been fighting for is now on national television and people can can see it. People can be aware of it now and there needs to be a change.

S1:

S4: I think a lot of people looked at me and took my kindness and took advantage of that , or my emotions whenever they would see me crying because I was struggling , like they would take that or even my weight thinking that I couldn’t do certain things. Uh , like just going back and thinking about Project Runway. There’s so many challenges where I had a lot of people against me , and I couldn’t understand why they didn’t like me. I never thought that I was a threat to them. I just thought , you know what ? People are just going to hate because they want to hate. But at the end of the day , um , I was a threat to them and they didn’t like that. And so they just wanted to bring me down as much as they could.

S1: That was a milestone , though , for representation and inclusion of your designs and specifically plus size designs on that show. Talk to me more about the importance of that visibility.

S4: Well , at that time back in 2015 , as a plus sized community , we were all fighting for more visibility , meaning like having more clothing stores , uh , extend their sizes , stop carrying things just online or carrying things that are very matronly or just not age appropriate. Um , I mean , I remember shopping at Macy’s and Walmart and things like that with my mother and my mom putting me in buttoned down collared shirts that were not for my age. So I think at that time. When I did , Project Runway was the perfect moment for these corporate companies who were designing for us plus size women to be woken up like , hello , we need fashion. Like , stop giving us these selections that you think we want. We actually want more fashion forward clothing. We want horizontal stripes like we want crop tops. Like stop limiting us because you want us to continue to be invisible. We don’t want. That.

S1: That.

S4: I think women are able to go into clothing stores and actually shop with their friends instead of feeling like their , their section is all the way in the back of the store in a little corner. Um , I mean , come on now. We just had Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show just happened a couple of days ago , and we had Ashley Graham as one of the plus size models on there. So I’ve only seen the highlights on social media , but I think we’ve changed so much. And even Christian Siriano , who was a previous Project Runway winner , he’s also included plus size models and designs into his shows. So I just think that we have evolved exactly where we needed to be. I mean , don’t get me wrong , there’s still some work that needs to be done , but we have. We’ve moved so much. Yeah.

S1: Yeah. It seems like in this current moment , you know , as you mentioned , we’re seeing a resurgence of fashion from from the 90s and 2000.

S4: We’re recycling fashion. I just can’t believe we’re recycling fashion that I once wore as a kid or a teenager. That’s the funny part , because what was it like 10 or 20 years ago ? We were doing the 70s and we were doing the 80s. Obviously , I wasn’t born back then , so it was very new to me. Um , but to see that the 90s in the early 2000 , I’m like beating myself up for throwing away things that I had back then. And I’m like , I could have recycled that. But I love it. I love , I love seeing the new interpretation that , um , the Gen Zs are doing and how much pride they take in in finding those gems.

S1: Yeah , they’ve got a little extra flair to it.

S4: They do. I love it , I love it. I’m like , you know , I used to wear that and I wasn’t cool wearing that. But now that you’re wearing that , you look really cool.

S1: I was like , how’d you pull that off ? Um , so I want to get into your experiences as an instructor. You’ve had plenty of success in the world of design.

S4: Um , I was teaching before Covid happened in my studio. Um , so I would do classes over the weekend and being a business owner and just working in my studio , sometimes you don’t get to work with other people. You’re always by yourself or , you know , would select a few people. And so I really wanted to get back into working with people. I used to work in retail and I love working with people. So I was like , I’m going to start teaching classes. And , um , I really liked it. And I saw how much people had joy in that. Then Covid happened. Obviously , I couldn’t teach , I started doing online and I was like , this isn’t the same. I need like in person. Um , so one day , one of my good friends told me that Palomar was hiring instructors for the fashion department , and I was like , I can’t. I don’t think I have what it takes to teach at a college level. Like , I know sewing like the back of my hand , but for me to be at that level. So it was a little intimidating. And I said , why not ? Let’s just do it. So I applied at Palomar Community College and I immediately got hired , um , to teach advanced pattern making and draping. And then now I’m permanently the beginning. Um , it’s called Intro to Fashion Apparel. So it’s a beginning sewing class. And I love that class so much because I get the students who are curious about sewing and love fashion and just to kind of see them blossom throughout the class , being able to understand what it is when I call out certain sewing techniques and and they’re like , oh , that’s how you make this. Oh , now I get it. Now I understand what I was doing wrong before. And so , um , it’s just really cool to see that.

S1: Do you think programs like that , like the one at Palomar , are , like important to people who are trying to get started in this industry.

S4: Oh , most definitely. I think even though you don’t want to , if you don’t want to be a fashion designer , I think it’s really important that you understand how clothing are made. I think anyone it doesn’t matter if you want to go into , um , fashion or not. I think it’s so great to be able to have that knowledge of being able to. So I know that thrifting is a huge thing. Or just buying clothing , um , even if it’s fast fashion that you’re buying , it’s a great trait to have to know how to sew , how to close the seam , what happens if you have something that you just purchased and it rips or a button falls off ? At least you know how to fix it. I think it’s something that it’s a lost trait that people have like forgot all about it , something that our grandmother did. But everything like reoccurs just like in fashion. like because of Covid , I feel like sewing has become or fashion has become more of a popular thing and it goes hand in hand.

S1: Well , in our previous conversation with Claudia of So Loca , yes , in Barrio Logan we talked about sustainability and upcycling.

S4: Stop buying clothing that has polyester , because none of that is great for our environment. Um , going to thrift stores and buying fabrics , bedsheets , things like that , or just upcycling what it is that you have in your closet and and trying to use your imagination to turn it into something else.

S1: I think , yeah , sewing is a huge part of fixing the environment in that way. I mean , we wouldn’t throw out clothes if we knew how to to repurpose them. Exactly.

S4: Exactly. Yeah , exactly. Because fashion is constantly changing. And that’s why it’s so hard for me to get rid of my clothes. Like , I wish I had a picture of my closet , because it’s literally a room. I have racks and racks of clothing like I call it my library. I don’t want to get rid of anything because it’s all going to come back eventually. And if it doesn’t , then I have this great print of something of a dress that I don’t like the silhouette anymore , but I can change it into something. So I never , never , never , never throw away clothing. I either donate it or I sell it or do trades , things like that , or I repurpose it. Yeah.

S5: Yeah.

S1:

S4: Don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t , because I’ve had all those doubts. Um , and that’s what encouraged me to go even more. But I say take a sewing class. If it’s at a continuation school or if it’s at a community college , you’re going to be surrounded by people who have the same passion as you. And it’s so inspiring. I love teaching and seeing my students every week because I love seeing what they’re wearing and like how they’re not just getting what I’m saying to them. They’re understanding why we do what we do.

S5: All right.

S1: I’ve been speaking with local designer Ashley Tipton. She’s also an instructor at Palomar College’s fashion merchandising and design program. Ashley. Thank you , thank you.