London Fashion Week 40th Anniversary Highlights

Celebrating 40 years of fashion excellence and innovation, London Fashion Week this month was a real thrill, with 72 on schedule designers showing their work in catwalk shows and physical and digital presentations. Established British and international brands including Edeline Lee, Paul Costelloe, Burberry, Malone Souliers, Pam Hogg, Christopher Raeburn, Richard Quinn and KGL showed alongside emerging talents like Chet Lo, Feben, Sabirah, Genaro Rivas and Maison Bent. Off schedule shows and events throughout the capital from exciting designers like Sagaboi, new talents at Fashion Scout and an exhibition at the Brazilian Embassy added to the buzz. Here are 16 highlights from an event that continues to shape the future of global fashion, blending tradition with bold, forward-thinking trends.

1.Edeline Lee

Womenswear brand Edeline Lee’s first ever London Fashion Week catwalk show, in the historic surroundings of the Milbank Tower overlooking the Thames, had dogs, children, bicycles and balloons. I’d expect no less from a designer who always presents her collections in the most memorable ways. In a theatrical collaboration with the award-winning choreographer Shelley Maxwell, models criss-crossed the space, often appearing to be in several places at once. The house’s elegant, painstaking craftsmanship and core shapes are here in the Spring Summer 2025 collection, augmented with lavish drapery and fluid tassels. The signature Flou Bubble Jacquard appears in a wide range of colors including navy, yellow, green and coral, cornflower, dusty pink, petrol, pale pink and emerald. Also on the runway (and worn in the front row by the Prime Minister’s wife, Lady Starmer) was a lovely soft painted polka dot print designed in collaboration with the artist Carolina Mazzolari.

2.Apujan

London-based womenswear label founded by Taiwanese designer Apu Jan, debuted in 2013 and has been a highlight of London Fashion Week ever since. The designs are renowned for integrating patterns and knitwear techniques to illustrate themes inspired by fantasy and literature. Each season, inspired by a list of books, Apu Jan creates a story containing his favorite elements. For this catwalk, it was Alice in Wonderland and elements from the book appeared in each of the 30 looks including playing cards, a chess piece and a rabbit. Performing live at the show was DJ So Lonely whose original music was an excellent accompaniment. The music mirrored chapters from Alice in Wonderland, with sounds like alarm clocks, guiding the audience alongside the hurried rabbit. Despite the theatrics, this is a very wearable new collection of dresses, skirts, tops and trousers in a variety of jacquards and prints, combining the best of East and West.

3.Feben

Swedish Ethiopian designer Feben Vemmenby continues to impress with her beautiful designs and exquisite craftsmanship. The Central Saint Martins graduate made a name for herself quickly, as a costume designer on Beyonce’s film Black is King and in dressing Michaela Coel, Erykah Badu and Janelle Monáe. A Georgian townhouse was the setting for her new collection featuring distinctive silhouettes and vibrant and intense prints. Dresses with flaring skirts, garments with the designer’s recognisable “twist” technique, super-flare trousers and beaded embroidery dresses crafted in Accra, Ghana by women artisans were all a real delight to see.

4.Mithridate

Luxury womenswear brand Mithridate is designed by Demon Zhang, former assistant to both Lee Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. Exquisite craftsmanship techniques is a signature of the brand whose Spring Summer 2025 collection pays tribute to Yunnan, the designer’s home province in southwestern China known for its stunning natural scenery and diverse ethnic cultures.

5.Brazil Creating Fashion for Tomorrow

The Brazilian Embassy’s fascinating exhibition A Chain of Women showcased eight Brazilian women designers who used alternative production methods and material sources. Farm Rio was a well known brand on show, with stores all over the world while emerging designer Marina Bitu showed designs made from straw of the banana tree stem. For the exhibition, Farm Rio worked with Yawanawá indigenous craftswomen and Patricia Bonaldi’s brand PatBo showed garments made at the sewing school she founded in her hometown of Uberlandia, Brazil.

6.Consistence

Hu Bing, British Fashion Council International Ambassador selected his favorite looks for the London Fashion Week debut of Chinese brand Consistence. The brand’s designers and founders Tien Lu and Fangfang graduated from Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion, respectively in 2015 and have previously shown at Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks. For this London Fashion Week, the designers presented their first-ever women’s collection with the theme Useless but Fabulous. Suits and trench coats were particularly strong looks and it was good to hear that the designers use leftover fabric from garment production to make accessories like scarves and gloves.

7.Chet Lo

Asian American designer Chet Lo is a 2015 graduate of Central Saint Martins BA Knitwear course. Following the success of his first collections, Lo’s work has been featured in magazines Vogue, Schön, Marie Claire and Dazed, and worn by Dua Lipa, Micaela Coel, Willow Smith, and many more. His London Fashion Week show was a tribute to his mother, Mai-Wah Cheung, an influential computer scientist. In 31 looks, officewear is softened with soft draping techniques while organza dresses feature digitalized “glitch” patterns. Gorgeous knitwear in black and blue and pleated trousers are also standouts.

8.Sagaboi

For his Spring/Summer 2025 menswear and womenswear collection, Out and Bad, Geoff K. Cooper drew inspiration from the cultural vibrancy of Caribbean Carnival, where celebration meets protest and identity is affirmed through boldness and joy. The runway show was on a rooftop terrace on a rae sunny day. The color palette bursts with bold hues inspired by Carnival’s revelry—crimson red, fandango fuchsias, vibrant yellow, deep blues, and bright greens—balanced by grounding anchor tones of black and white. And it was great to see the return of the brand’s Village Print makes a powerful return this season and continues to encapsulate the essence of the Caribbean, featuring iconic West Indian architecture, tropical flora, and everyday life woven together in vibrant patterns. The print, seen across suiting, skirts, and shirts, serves as a wearable tribute to Caribbean communities and the lively spirit of island life. Crochet remains a key element of Sagaboi’s offering with the celebration of handcrafted island crochet, crafted exclusively by women crocheters in the Caribbean. Sagaboi’s commitment to sustainability and craftsmanship is reflected in the thoughtful use of upcycled and deadstock fabrics. With this new collection Sagaboi challenges wearers to embrace their full selves, especially in spaces where they may feel marginalized or unwelcome. “We have one life. To live it in spaces we’re called to—or forced to—occupy, we must be unapologetically ourselves. That’s the essence of Out and Bad,” says Cooper.

9.Paul Costelloe

Irish-American designer Paul Costelloe’s runway show in the stunning ballroom at the Waldorf Astoria is always a highlight on the LFW calendar. He’s been showing at London Fashion Week since the launch 40 years ago. This family owned and run business has been a leader in the use of hand-crafted, luxurious fabrics combined with cutting edge design, innovation and creativity. Paris was the backdrop for his latest collection of dresses and jackets made from linen, tweed and jacquard in pastel blue, pink, yellow and green, some with his trademark ruffles.

10.Studio Molyneaux

An intimate gallery behind Tottenham Court Road was the setting for the launch of the new label by former cult label PPQ designer, Amy Molyneaux. The designer was also behind collections for Amy Winehouse, Fred Perry, Adidas and more. With a mix of nostalgic styles from the archive and a wave of new guard in exclusive prints and luxe fabrics the ready to wear collection includes Bomber Jackets, translucent organza blouses as well as the resplendent party dresses, signature jeans and the much loved Gabriel bag in its new incarnation.

11.Ray Chu

Ray Chu’s new collection draws inspiration from the floral landscapes that emerge when drift plants reach the shore, symbolising the resilient spirit of the Taiwanese people. This season’s color palette revolves around the designer’s signature accent color, fiery red, complemented by icy yellow, classic black and white. Clever tailored touches like misaligned blazer lapels and subtle details appear in shirt designs. Playful elements like flared mini skirts and dress silhouettes reminiscent of flowerpots add a whimsical touch. Another standout look is a zippered jean jacket with flared jeans. Fabrics include recycled fish scale made textiles, water chestnut yarns and other natural materials, resulting in a collection that balances commercial appeal with innovative design.

12.Noon By Noor

Presenting their new designs in a sunlit room in Somerset House, cousins Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa introduced a pretty Spring Summer 2025 collection that features translucent fabrics, layered textures and subtle contrasts. Fabrics used include pure Irish linen, cotton poplin, techno tulle and wadding, as well as natural yarn blends with modern technical finishes to achieve a lightweight and clean aesthetic. Exclusive prints are seen on cotton poplin and crystal pleated tulle, with translucent sequined tulle highlighted as a key feature across the collection. Linen tuxedos were paired with long skirts and dresses were often worn over other garments and adjusted with a nonchalant twist.

13.Ginny Litscher

Using sculptures in the opulent Baccanalia in Mayfair as props, Swiss artist and designer Ginny Litscher presented her gorgeous silk scarves, each of which is based on a large painting. Each of her paintings or designs tell a different story, which is then turned into a textile design by the artist herself. As well as collaborations with Lalique and Ginny Litscher designs are stocked in is stocked in Harvey Nichols, Liberty and Joseph. Her legion of fans include Lady Gaga, Keira Knightley, Florence Welch and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.

14.Sinead Gorey

Drawing inspiration from London night-life subcultures, this clubwear brand creates a signature recognisable look which has become synonymous with the perfect night out. And as a result, Sinead Gorey has many celebrity fans including Miley Cyrus, Cardi B, Sita Abellán and Megan the Stallion. Named as one to watch by The New York Times there is certainly a lot to come from the young designer.

15.Ahkeke

A showroom presentation by this women’s wear and jewelery brand reminded me to visit the lovely boutique in Ham Yard where I spotted the gorgeous silk Lily Scarf Blouse in black and cream among many other covetable pieces. Ahkeke’s Chinese designer Ke Gong moved to the UK twelve years ago to study at the Istituto Marangoni and the London College of Fashion. After working at Osman London and Alexander McQueen, she created her own label that’s been committed to sustainable fashion since her graduate collection made entirely of recycled materials

16.Lenifro

Spanish designer Helen Lopez has a passion for the colorful designs of the 1980s and 1990s. With her new Rob & Fab Forever collection shown by fashion producer Global Fashion Collective she’s gone one step further by collaborating with Fab Moran, the remaining member of the superband Milli Vanilli who also gave a live runway performance. Celebrating the group’s influence on fashion and music, the collection features oversized garments, asymmetrical cuts, shoulder pads and a bright color palette. Sustainable materials, such as recycled polyester from plastic bottles, were used to make the garments.