Maison Margiela to skip Paris Fashion Week

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The official Paris Fashion Week schedule is out and looks set to draw the crowds back to the French capital post-Olympics. All eyes will be on Alessandro Michele’s debut runway show for Valentino on 29 September, after he released a surprise lookbook of his first collection.

Among the notable absentees from the show schedule is Maison Margiela, amid press reports that creative director John Galliano is leaving (the brand declined to comment). Maison Margiela is planning to host an event on 30 September, with “further details to follow in due course”, the brand said. Galliano’s most recent show was for spring haute couture week in January, and the brand showed women’s ready-to-wear in October 2020, 2021 and 2023.

Off-White will also be absent as it makes its New York debut. Altogether, the Spring/Summer 2025 women’s ready-to-wear calendar, which will run from 23 September to 1 October, features a total of 70 shows and 38 presentations — compared to 67 and 40 for SS24.

This season’s calendar marks the return of Gabriela Hearst, who hasn’t shown in Paris since SS21 in October 2020. “Paris’s international reach and remarkable platform for creative expression will enable us to pursue our development based on a long-term view, combining luxury and sustainability,” Hearst said in a statement. It also marks the return of Ludovic de Saint Sernin after a one-off in New York last season, and of Y/Project, which skipped AW24, citing “a commitment to prioritising investments”. Christopher Esber, who scooped the 2024 Andam Prize, returns to the presentation calendar, alongside Heliot Emil and Aigle. Newcomers to the show calendar are Alainpaul, and Niccolò Pasqualetti, an LVMH Prize finalist. (The LVMH Prize winners will be announced on 10 September.)