Milan Fashion Week Schedule Shuffles the Deck but Has Just a Handful of Surprises

MILAN — Many shuffles, few surprises but still a packed schedule of 58 physical shows.

That’s the gist of the provisional calendar Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, or CNMI, released on Wednesday for the upcoming edition of Milan Fashion Week, running Sept. 17 to 23.

Officially, the city has gained an extra day, with big shows already scheduled on Tuesday, which historically offered a softer introduction to the event with just institutional appointments.

Fendi will be the fashion week opener, with a runway show scheduled for 3 p.m. CET, to be followed by the likes of Marni, Alberta Ferretti and Iceberg.

Antonio Marras will kick off the second day of shows, Sept. 18, which will also see Boss switching from its evening runway format to a morning one scheduled at 11.30 a.m. CET. Ditto for Jil Sander, which has moved up from its usual weekend spot to present its spring 2025 collection at 2 p.m. that day. It will be followed by Del Core, No. 21, Roberto Cavalli and Etro, which all retained their traditional timing.

Max Mara, Prada, Moschino and GCDS will remain on the third day, Sept. 19, which will close with Emporio Armani’s double show at 8 p.m. and 9 p.m. CET. The brand has taken the time slot previously held by Tom Ford, which won’t stage a runway show following the exit of its creative director Peter Hawkings earlier this week. As reported, Tom Ford’s spring 2025 collection will be presented in the Milan showroom, while a successor will be revealed in the near future.

Also momentarily M.I.A. are Blumarine, which is expected to announce its new creative director this month instead, as well as MSGM, which celebrated its 15^th anniversary with a coed show in June. Conversely, Fiorucci is expected to stage its first runway show, as teased to WWD earlier this year, but official details are still under wraps.

Meanwhile, Tod’s is confirmed as the first show on Sept. 20, which will be packed with sought-after tickets, including the ones for Gucci — scheduled at 3 p.m. CET and staged at the Triennale Milano location again — Missoni, Sunnei and Versace.

Sept. 21 will mark the turn of Ferrari, Ferragamo and Bally, as well as Diesel, another brand that has changed slots, this time moving down the schedule to stage a show at 4 p.m. CET that day. This will be followed by the return to the catwalk of The Attico, after founders Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini made a successful runway debut last September. The day will end on a high note with the much-awaited Bottega Veneta show at 8 p.m. CET, to be followed by Philipp Plein’s evening extravaganza.

Key events on Sept. 22 will include Chinese designer Susan Fang’s Milan debut supported by Dolce & Gabbana as part of its ongoing project endorsing young designers, and the return to the runway format of Andreādamo.

Considering that Giorgio Armani will decamp from Milan Fashion Week to present its spring 2025 in New York on Oct. 17, the day is set to lack critical mass, with the fashion crowd likely to move onto the next leg of the fashion marathon in Paris early that day. 

Still, Italy’s fashion chamber will stage its third edition of the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards at Teatro alla Scala that evening, and has reserved Sept. 23 for digital shows, including the ones of Jacob Cohên and debutant Defaience by Nicola Bacchilega.