Paris Fashion Week 2024: Hermes goes light on leather, Loewe’s star-studded minimalism and Dries Van Noten’s last show

Paris Fashion Week 2024 featured notable shifts and emotional moments, highlighted by Hermes’ departure from its leather-centric collections to introduce a spring-summer 2025 line dominated by cotton and linen in serene shades of white and blue. Meanwhile, Loewe, under JW Anderson’s direction, presented a minimalist collection celebrated for its restrained elegance yet adorned with quirky touches like exotic feathers and angular collars. The week culminated in a poignant farewell from Dries Van Noten, marking the end of a legendary 40-year career in fashion, known for his sophisticated designs and vibrant use of colour.

Hermes Goes Light on Leather

At Paris Fashion Week on Saturday, Hermes took a surprising turn by featuring minimal leather in its spring-summer 2025 collection. Known globally for its luxurious leather goods, Hermes showcased a line predominantly composed of cotton and linen in shades of white and blue. Designer Veronique Nichanian described the collection as being “grazed by a gentle breeze… Clothing casts reflections into the transparency of water,” according to her press release. Among the few leather items were sandals and a sleeveless bomber-style jacket, while the collection primarily included docker hats, trench coats, and drawstring trousers.

Loewe’s Star-Studded Minimalism

Loewe, under the creative direction of JW Anderson, embraced minimalism with a show described as “the radical act of restraint.” The minimalist aesthetic did not overshadow the unique and ornate elements Anderson is known for, such as long exotic feathers on headbands and angular collars on T-shirts. The front row featured notable personalities like Spanish filmmaker Pedro Almodovar, US actor Jeff Goldblum, and singer Sabrina Carpenter. Almodovar praised the experience, likening it to attending a theatrical performance where each character’s attire contributes to the emotional impact.

Dries Van Noten’s Farewell Show

Fashion enthusiasts eagerly anticipated Dries Van Noten’s final show before his retirement. Van Noten, a celebrated figure in fashion for over four decades, is renowned for his sophisticated and poetic designs. His decision to retire at 66, despite his ongoing success, was unexpected. He expressed to The New York Times that the intensity of the fashion world had become overwhelming, likening it to an addiction he needed to leave behind. Known for his exquisite tailoring and vibrant use of colour, Van Noten’s influence will continue through his team, who will maintain the brand’s operations in Antwerp, away from Paris’s fashion hub. The Puig Group, which acquired a majority stake in the brand in 2018, agreed to Van Noten’s terms. Van Noten humorously mentioned that he would need a new email and Instagram handle post-retirement, as his current ones are synonymous with the brand.