PFW Men’s moves: Willy Chavarria and Jacquemus join the calendar, Loewe skips it

Charles Jeffrey Loverboy by Scottish fashion designer Charles Jeffrey, Paris-based label Les Fleurs Studio and Post Archive Faction, a Korean menswear brand based in South Korea that was a semi-finalist of the LVMH Prize in 2021, each join the presentation schedule.

The schedule, which runs from 21 to 26 January, features 38 shows and 30 presentations, down from 2024’s 41 shows and 32 presentations. Other shows to watch include Louis Vuitton, Dior Men’s, Rick Owens, Hermès and Kenzo. Hed Mayner will take the Loewe spot on 25 January at 12pm. Bianca Saunders will hold a presentation after staging a show last season. Patou will show off-schedule on 26 January at 6pm.

Aside from Loewe, absentees are Wales Bonner by London-based designer Grace Wales Bonner; Dries Van Noten, which will present its men’s collection in a lookbook headed by new creative director Julian Klausner, ahead of his debut show in March; Givenchy, whose new creative director Sarah Burton will also present her debut collection in March; Valentino, which now shows co-ed twice a year and couture only once a year (in January); Berlin label Gmbh; and Alaïa, which showed in New York in September.

The spring 2025 couture week will run from 27 to 30 January. This season’s calendar features 28 houses, compared with 29 last January. Valentino, Ronald van der Kemp and Julien Fournié are among those to return, while Maison Margiela and Fendi (both yet to appoint new creative directors following the departures of John Galliano and Kim Jones, respectively) as well as Alexis Mabille are skipping this couture season. Highlights will include Schiaparelli, Chanel, Dior, Giorgio Armani Privé and Jean Paul Gaultier designed by Ludovic de Saint Sernin. This season’s new guest houses Miss Sohee and Germanier will close the curtain.

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