Polly Pocket’s 35th Anniversary: See the Miniature Doll’s Influence on Fashion, From Loewe to Marc Jacobs

Barbiecore once took runways by storm, but now another plastic doll has captured the fashion zeitgeist. Polly Pocket, who celebrates her 35th anniversary on Wednesday, was initially designed by Chris Wiggs in 1983. He created the tiny plaything for his daughter, fashioning a dollhouse out of a makeup compact.

This became the basis for the original Polly Pocket toys, which included heart-shaped plastic cases that opened up into play sets. After they hit shelves in 1989, Mattel purchased the property in 1998, redesigning Polly Pocket and making her slightly larger. They also introduced clothing, shoes and accessories for the doll — many of them rubber.

Although Polly Pocket toys were discontinued in 2012, Mattel brought them back in 2018, catering to a new generation of children and cashing in on retro nostalgia.

“With ’90’s fashion once again at the heart of culture, Polly’s chunky heels and rubber minidresses are the moment, encouraging fans to make big and bold fashion choices,” Krista Berger, Mattel’s senior vice president, global head of Barbie and dolls, exclusively told WWD in a statement. “Polly’s journey over the last three decades is a testament to the power of imagination and we look forward to honoring the adventure she brings to everyday life.”

In celebration of the doll’s 35th birthday, Mattel has pegged Polly Pocket collaborations with brands like Loungefly, Pacsun and Hot Topic. The brand also has plans to release makeup — a clear nod to the toy’s original prototype.

Even designer labels aren’t immune to the pint-sized doll’s influence: Moschino, Balenciaga and Miu Miu experimented with Polly Pocket-inspired designs in the 2010s, and in the 2020s, these playful, buoyant silhouettes have reemerged, taking new form in the whimsical garments of Marc Jacobs and Loewe.

Ahead, see how eight high fashion brands have channeled Polly Pocket.

Moschino

Jeremy Scott’s spring 2015 collection for Moschino may have been explicitly Barbie-coded, but the brand’s quilted Swarovski-encrusted heart-shaped purse mimics Polly Pocket’s original compacts.

Balenciaga

In 2017, Balenciaga introduced its own iteration of Crocs. The Spanish label’s platform take on the rubber clog — stuffed to the gills with Jibbitz — could have easily come from Polly Pocket’s elastic wardrobe.

GCDS

GCDS, the Italian brand known for its kitschy interpretations of Hello Kitty, Care Bears and Pokémon, collaborated with Polly Pocket in 2019. Several designs, including satin bomber jackets, micro handbags and knits incorporated the brand’s original logo.

In 2024, GCDS teamed up with the tiny doll again as part of its fall “Toys for Adults” presentation. Invitations for the show consisted of Polly Pocket dolls wearing GCDS hoodies.