Should We Be Tracking Our Fashion Air Miles?

Indeed, one of the major challenges of reducing transportation emissions is consumer expectation about how quickly they’re able to get an item delivered, particularly with the rise of next-day and express delivery. “We live in an on-demand culture, which skews perception of what actually is an acceptable shipping timeline,” Talbot says.

Not only that, the demands of retailers on brands also means that they often have to resort to air freighting—both when it comes to raw materials, and shipping the final garment. It’s one of the reasons why Maggie Hewitt, founder of New Zealand-based brand, Maggie Marilyn, decided to move her brand away from a wholesale model back in 2020. “Operating direct-to-consumer has given us time to make our supply chain more efficient, and it’s added flexibility in our calendar, which allows us to increase our dependence on sea freight when possible, decreas[ing] our carbon emissions,” the designer explains.

Increasingly, eco-minded brands are looking to build regional supply chains, in order to reduce the need for air transportation when it comes to creating their products in the first place. “We have been focusing on key areas where our fibers and textiles are sourced, and then working on keeping production centralized around these points to reduce any unnecessary transportation,” Hewitt says.

Meanwhile, investing in facilities that are closer to where consumers are can also reduce the need for shipping by air—with Reformation onboarding a third-party warehouse in the Netherlands last year, in order to meet the demand from customers in Europe. “This is a win-win-win for customers, the environment, and our business, yielding faster customer service and lower emissions,” Talbot explains.

Given the complexity of fashion’s supply chain, it’s impossible for customers to work out the footprint of a product that’s been shipped around the world, without more transparency from brands. And while it’s clear that the mode of transportation should be taken into account, it’s by no means the only factor. “For Reformation products, an average of two-thirds of the total carbon footprint comes from the materials used, which makes this the most significant factor,” Talbot says. “Relative to other factors, [the final shipment to the customer] is typically less than 10 percent of the total impact.”

Supporting eco-conscious brands that are reducing their impact across multiple areas can also help create more widespread change, even if international shipping is required. “Transportation is only one of many aspects,” Magnus concludes. “A conscious consumer that is willing to reward brands that pull all levers will of course help the industry’s transformation.”