The forces driving Indian fashion

Reflecting on his brand’s growth, Malhotra, who founded his label in 2004, says: “This year has indeed been an extraordinary journey for the brand.” In 2021, Reliance Brands Limited, owned by the Ambani family, acquired a 40 per cent minority stake in the label, further propelling its expansion. Malhotra is passionate about contemporising Indian crafts, such as the chikankari from the Mijwan region, the phulkari from Punjab, and brocade textile techniques from Benaras. “We often face the delicate task of harmonising innovation with tradition, especially when adapting our designs to suit varied international sensibilities,” he says.

Finally, Amit Hansraj launched his label Inca in 2020, just as the pandemic hit. Hansraj started his career as a stylist and merchandiser, working for brands like Ensemble, a leading multi-brand store in India. By then, he had become disillusioned with the industry’s focus on special occasionwear, particularly for weddings. “The Indian market’s obsession with bridalwear jaded me,” he says. Inca, by contrast, celebrates everyday dressing. “How many Zara pieces can a woman wear?” he asks, noting the ubiquity of fast fashion.

Initially, buyers pushed him to add embroidery, as clothes without it were seen as less ‘special’. However, the pandemic changed mindsets, and now, Inca is one of the bestselling contemporary labels in India. Hansraj was recently appointed creative director of Wendell Rodricks, one of the country’s pioneering resortwear labels. His first collection for the brand will debut in stores later this month.

The exhibition comes at a timely moment, not only as the world’s view of Indian creativity is evolving, but also as design-led fashion is experiencing dynamic growth in the region. It should encourage labels to better document their own history and archive.

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