The representation of the Black models at Paris Couture Fashion Week 2024

PHOTO: COURTESY OF SCHIPARELLI

For decades, the black model has pleaded with high fashion designers calling to have more black representation in their extravagant fashion shows.  Ready-to-wear Fashion Week is sweeping the nation from Paris, NYC, London, and Milan. Though each season brings forth new and striking collections from elite designers, one constant statement remains the same. It is the complex relationship between the black model and the fashion industry when walking on high fashion runways. 

Historically, the trailblazing careers of the black models who dominated and broke barriers on the catwalk from the 1960s, 70s, 80s, and 90s, the iconic supermodels Cicely Tyson, known as one of the earliest well-known black models, Naomi Campbell and Iman, who diversified the modeling industry, and Tyra Banks, who made history as the first Black Model to grace the cover of Sports Illustrated and model for Victoria’s Secret. 

With Paris Fashion Week in full swing, designers Valentino, Saint Laurent, Schiaparelli, and Givenchy were featured. Schiaparelli Couture’s creative director, Daniel Roseberry, wanted people to feel a sense of nostalgia during the show. 

“I wanted people to feel the collection was referencing a different time… and something about the 50s felt so fresh and simple. You’ll find homages to those silhouettes.” 

The show was staged in the basement of the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, which has a long-running relationship with featuring some of the most elite couture shows. 

Valentino’s winter collection was showcased at the Pozzo di Borgo mansion, featuring the Italian luxury house’s ‘Le Noir’ fashion display. Designer the Maison featured an all-black collection experimenting with various styles and textures: trapeze skirts, loose wrap shirts, and zipped leather jackets featuring ruffles and layers. Valentino featured a diverse fashion show with models Anok Yai, Alek Wek, and Adut Akech from South Sudanese. 

Though many high-fashion designers have tried to diversify their runways, one question comes to mind: Where are the black models who identify as African American? If a black model is shown walking in these high-profile fashion shows, they’re from Africa. When searching for the Black models of 2024 who Identify as African American, it’s almost impossible to find anyone. 

Black models have reported feeling pressured to cut off all of their hair when wanting to model for these high fashion brands. One model in particular, Londone Myers, spoke out, saying, 

“When black models start, I feel like we all have to have short-cropped hair.”

Not enough resources are put toward making sure that there are hair stylists who work behind the scenes of these fashion shows with the credentials to not only style but protect the hair of black women. Frequently, we see black models with low cuts or cornrows in their hair because, in most cases, nobody can do their hair, leaving the models to help themselves and each other on set. 

Though the Paris Fall/Winter 2024 fashion show succeeded, black models still advocate for change in the high fashion industry.