Travel
The Road Tripper’s Guide to Coastal Maine
You wouldn’t be wrong to categorize Maine as a summer destination—the region is well-regarded for its sleepy, sun-soaked beach towns where barefoot strolls from sand to food stall are standard fare. But as Maine native Tony DeLois tells me (who recently opened Longfellow Hotel in Portland alongside his brother and business partner, Nate) a mid-coast road trip is excellent in all seasons.
“While summer has the optimal weather, oysters from Damariscotta are best consumed in the spring,” he says, adding that “fall may be the best time to see Maine’s bounty on full display; roadside farm stands are filled with goods, breweries release their malt-forward ales, and locally-grown apples can be found everywhere.” And even in the depths of winter, DeLois points to places like Maine Coastal Botanical Gardens that “transform into a winter wonderland with their Gardens Aglow series that is a must for anyone traveling on the coast.”
Ahead, a handful of insider tips and recommendations for exploring Maine’s coastline by car.
Set Aside Enough Time
Without getting into a philosophical debate about when a simple drive becomes a road trip, it’s a worthy callout that in order to fully grasp the region, it will require ample time. “I think to really take in the experience you need to set aside at least four days,” DeLois suggests. Even though you don’t need to drive more than a few hours each day, Maine’s coast has several fingers that branch off from Route 1, which are excellent for wandering roadtrippers. “I highly suggest picking one of these fingers to drive down and explore,” DeLois says, pointing to local route 129 and ending at Christmas Cove in Bristol as one of his favorite runs. “Make it extra special by getting pre-cooked lobsters and/or oysters at the local fish co-op and take them down to Sand Cove Beach,” he says. “There is nothing better than having freshly cooked lobsters from the surrounding water on a small local beach.”
Embrace Impromptu Roadside Stops
“Maine has a ton of coastline, more than one might think, and more than California,” DeLois says, inferring that this means there are still plenty of hidden gems for roadtrippers to uncover on their journeys. And the way for these gems to be discovered? By pulling over whenever your gut tells you to. “Give yourself plenty of time for unplanned stops, a lot of what makes any road trip DownEast (what we call going up the coast) special is all the roadside stops you can’t find on Google,” he says. “If someone is selling strawberries (June), raspberries (July), or blueberries (August) stop and get some—it’s a must.”
Decide Where You Want to Start (and Finish)
A road trip along Maine’s coast will entail charming towns peppered with antique shops, ice cream parlors, quaint general stores, and plenty of artisan-made products to sample and bring home. Part of the fun is stumbling upon all of the above, but some level of planning is still a good idea. “Without a doubt, Portland needs to be part of the equation and can either be the launching pad for your trip or your landing zone after exploring the coast,” DeLois says. For my road trip, Portland was my landing zone where I spent my final two days exploring this underrated city. I feasted on the impeccable menu at Twelve (yes, the lobster roll served in a flaky puff pastry is a non-negotiable order), slurped down oysters at The Shop by Island Creek Oysters, sipped jarringly good drinks at Room For Improvement (looks like a dive bar, tastes like a craft cocktail lab), perused Japanese knives at Seisuke, and melted into the massage table at The Longfellow’s Astrea wellness spa followed by an hour in their infrared sauna suite (a delectable antidote for sitting in a car five days in a row).
Let Accommodations Guide Your Route
If it’s not already clear, quaint towns are kind of Maine’s thing, and even a very brief road trip here will introduce you to several of them. If you’re not sure how to map out your drive, do what I did and structure your route around the region’s most exciting stays. In Portland, the newly-opened Longfellow can’t be beat. (The boutique hotel has 48 rooms and is in the city’s historic West End.) Over in Kennebunkport, Hidden Pond is the gold standard for an atmospheric stay enveloped by nature. Cape Elizabeth’s Inn by the Sea is old-world charm at its finest, with a dreamy wood plank walkway that leads through a bunny habitat and straight to the sand. Up north in Southwest Harbor, check in to The Claremont Hotel, a quintessential Maine property with history dating back to 1883. (Don’t miss out on the nightly s’mores at the fire pit!) And for those who want to be near the national park, book a glamping tent at Under Canvas Acadia to sleep beneath the stars.
Come Hungry (and Thirsty)
I began my road trip with an aggressive ambition of eating a lobster roll every day. While most (if not all) locals would advise against such a gluttonous goal, it speaks to the region’s incredibly fresh seafood, produce, and farm-to-table goods that I was (almost) successful in my quest. And the coffee! Don’t bother looking for a Starbucks or Blue Bottle here—there are countless local roasters offering artisanal coffee (my favorite was Green Tree Coffee and Tea in Lincolnville Beach). Ice cream is also a big deal here, with roadside stands and storybook parlors all around, including Bay Brook Farm in Appleton that looked so appealing I drove 15 minutes back to town just to get cash. (Reminder: Not everyone takes credit cards in these parts!) As for my favorite lobster roll? It’s a tie between McCloons and The Travelin’ Lobster.
Leave Space in Your Trunk for Art and Antiques
Wiscasset, Maine is often referred to as one of the best destinations for antique shopping in the United States, and the coastal region’s many antique trails are brimming with treasures. A favorite pitstop from my road trip was Indian Trail Antiques in Newcastle, which offers a vast inventory of vintage Americana finds (snowshoes, gas lamps, and jukeboxes galore). There are also several artists in the area selling handcrafted home goods. “I recommend visitors in Portland seek out ANK Ceramics and Campfire Pottery, both studios are within a stone’s throw of each other,” DeLois suggests. And no visit to Maine would be complete without celebrating the Wabanaki Nations’ cultural heritage and indigenous land. The Abbe Museum, for example, has locations in both Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park and in addition to its exhibits and collections, also stocks artwork that visitors can purchase.