Industry insiders sound off on what’s driving the rise in demand for preloved pieces
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When it comes to secondhand fashion, business is booming.
According to the 2024 Resale Report from the online consignment platform ThredUp, the global secondhand market is expected to reach US$350 billion by 2028. That’s a lot of used garments being passed around.
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The projection comes as little surprise to Kathleen Talbot, chief sustainability officer at Reformation, who notes the increasing interest in preloved pieces “boils down” to three main motivators.
“Consumers are increasingly more aware of and interested in reducing their environmental impact. They are also contending with higher costs of living and are looking for more affordable ways to get dressed,” Talbot says. “Last and not least, it’s fun. Shopping secondhand is a treasure hunt and you feel really accomplished when you find something special.
“You’re typically purchasing one of few, or even one of one, versus one of many. That thrill of the chase is part of why we’re seeing thrifting explode on social platforms.”
The multi-pronged interest in preloved pieces has prompted the Los Angeles-headquartered company, which operates two stores in Toronto as well as ecommerce across Canada, to introduce resale on its own platform, in partnership with Poshmark.
“In order for fashion to have a viable and sustainable future, the industry must embrace circularity,” Talbot says. “Resale is a key example of how we can help take responsibility for our stuff after it leaves our hands. Much of what is landfilled today in apparel is still in perfectly wearable condition.
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“Before customers send us their clothing to be recycled — in an ideal scenario — or otherwise get rid of it for good, we want to make sure it’s truly reached the end of its useful life.”
The program sees customers able to list preloved Ref pieces from their own closets on the reselling platform through their order history on Reformation.com. The direct-to-retailer avenue will allow for ease of listing creation with item information and details being automatically populated in the post.
According to Talbot, the resale connection is an important step in the company’s overarching sustainability mission, which includes its Circular by 2030 ambition to offer eco-conscious solutions for products, from production to end-of-life. Preloved pieces are also already a small portion of the company’s product offering.
“Our original product offering at Ref was selling re-tailored vintage clothing before we transitioned into making our own apparel,” Talbot says. “In honour of that legacy, and because vintage is truly the most sustainable way to shop, we still offer vintage drops online every few months, in select stores, and have two full-time vintage buyers on our team.
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“We’ll continue to grow our assortment of vintage apparel alongside the business itself and hope to embrace other resale platforms outside of the U.S. and Canada in the near future, as well.”
In addition to the environmental allure of preloved pieces, Courtney Watkins, owner of the Canadian designer resale company Mine & Yours, notes that resale represents a way to save — and make — money.
“We’re seeing more people investing in their dream wardrobes, and the first step to that is letting go of the pieces they don’t wear anymore,” Watkins says. “We always see an increase in selling appointments when the seasons change, which is perfect — our clients bring in their items, get cash or store credit, and walk away with something new that they love.”
Mine & Yours offers cash payouts for designer fashion and accessories between 30 and 50 per cent of the expected resale value, store credit between 40 and 60 per cent, and between 50 and 70 per cent for consignment items valued over $500.
Founded in Vancouver in 2013, Watkins says there’s been a marked shift in the perception of preloved items, especially at a luxury price point.
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“Over the years, secondhand shopping has become less taboo and way more fashionable,” she shares. “The economy definitely plays a part. When things get uncertain, people become more mindful about spending, and look for ways to get the most value out of what they already own, including their wardrobes.”
Selling used luxury items such as handbags, shoes and accessories is a way to unlock that value already in your closet to put it toward something else. According to a 2023 report from PayPal, 50 per cent of Canadians polled said they have found selling unwanted items a “good supplement to their primary income.”
“In economic downturns, people start making more thoughtful purchases,” Watkins says. “They’re prioritizing quality and value, and they know consignment offers both.”
Despite reports of a slowdown in luxury shopping in some international markets, Canada’s luxury demand has held comparably steady, according to Retail Insider. It’s a demand also felt in the resale market, according to Watkins.
“We post our best products on Instagram Stories throughout the week, and within seconds of posting, our DMs are flooded with people asking for invoices,” Watkins says. “Honestly, things are selling quicker than ever thanks to social media.”
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The secondhand boom goes beyond a demand for luxury and womenswear. According to Riaz Khan, co-founder of the Granville Flea Market, the interest in shopping vintage is becoming ubiquitous.
Some 42 per cent of Gen Z Canadians polled in the 2023 PayPal Canada survey noted they buy preowned goods more than once a month. In comparison, that percentage shifts to 27 per cent for Gen X and Boomers.
The vintage expert, along with Shawn Avantini of Avantini Shop and local video producer James Cabrera, are opening a new shop for preloved fans in North Vancouver called Arrival Vintage (111 E 12th St.). The timing and location of the store has everything to do with growing demand, Khan says.
“With very few vintage shops around and the Granville Flea success at the Shipyards market this summers. We felt like it was time,” Khan says.
The items are carefully curated to feature in-demand and trending pieces that tap into the cool, throwback culture of the 2000s that many vintage shoppers are searching for right now.
“You can find an array of vintage goods but carefully curated by the team at Arrival. They are here to help you make your shopping easier by getting today’s culture popular items right in front of you, leaving the digging to us,” Khan says. “Jerseys and vintage team sports items are flying off the shelf. Whether it’s the Canucks, Yankees or the World Cup this past summer. People are loving the sports movement.”
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Khan says the the items at the store “cost a lot less than most fast fashion” while featuring the unique, one-of-a-kind feel that draws a lot of resale fans to the sector in the first place.
“It is the tough economy currently driving people to find other ways of looking fresh,” Khan says of the interest. “And, secondly, the need to help the environment as people are looking at sustainable fashion as a way to save the planet.”
When it comes to resale, it’s no secret that some pieces hold more value than others. We asked Watkins to dish on the five most in demand — and best investment — brands.
“Chanel is always at the top of our list. From their iconic bags to ready-to-wear pieces, our clients love the timeless appeal and lasting value.”
“Their monogrammed bags and accessories are consistently popular, appealing to both new and seasoned luxury shoppers.”
“Especially the Birkin and Kelly bags. The exclusivity and craftsmanship of Hermès make it a top choice for clients looking for investment-worthy pieces.”
“With its bold designs and modern takes on classics, Gucci is a favourite for our fashion-forward clients.”
“Dior’s elegant and sophisticated designs, especially the Lady Dior bag, are always in demand.”
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