This Elegant Italian City Is the Birthplace of One of the World’s Most Beloved Cheeses — and Has No Crowds

Parmigiano-Reggiano is one of the world’s most famous and beloved cheeses, yet its birthplace is rarely one of the first places that people think of when planning a trip to Italy. What a shame. Despite living in Rome for five years and visiting Italy dozens of times before that, it took me years to get to Parma, but when I finally did, I realized what an incredible place I’d been missing. Located in Emilia-Romagna, about an hour from Bologna, Parma is at the heart of Italy’s Food Valley. In fact, it’s recognized by UNESCO as a Creative City for Gastronomy.

Parma traces its roots back to ancient Rome, but it entered a golden age when it became part of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza in 1545. Under the Farnese dukes, the city became wealthy and powerful. Renaissance painters like Correggio and Parmigianino left their mark, decorating palaces and churches that are still must-visit spots today.

On a recent visit to Parma, I was enchanted by the city’s elegant piazzas and streets lined with boutiques, restaurants, and bars. It regularly ranks among Italy’s most livable cities, according to an annual survey by Italian newspaper Il Sole 24 Ore. Compared to crowded cities like Rome, Florence, and Venice, Parma feels like a breath of fresh air. It’s still relatively under-the-radar, so you can really live like a local and experience a place full of art and culture that’s not overrun by tourists.

To learn more, I reached out to local expert Micol Brianti, who was born and raised in Parma and manages a portfolio of holiday homes called Michilab. Read on to discover why Parma made our list of the best cities to visit in Italy, and what you need to know to plan a trip.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Grand Hotel de la Ville

Located a 15-minute walk from the historic center in the industrial Barilla Center renovated by Renzo Piano, this modern hotel is one of Parma’s few five-star properties. Floor-to-ceiling windows, neutral tones, and sleek furnishings by Mies Van Der Rohe set the tone for a sophisticated stay.

Sina Maria Luigia

Part of the family-run Sina Hotels group, this four-star hotel in the heart of the city is well-suited for business and leisure travelers. Named for Napoleon’s second wife who reigned over the city, the hotel is done up in a classic style, with 101 rooms and suites, Maxim’s Restaurant, and L’Aiglon Bar.

NH Parma

This four-star hotel by NH is conveniently located just steps from the train station and a quick walk away from the historic center. Its bright, clean rooms are outfitted in contemporary furniture, and an ample buffet breakfast is provided. It may not ooze personality, but it’s a great, affordable option for a brief stay.

Michilab

With her company Michilab, Micol Brianti designs and manages short-term apartment rentals in Parma, Puglia, and Sardinia. The fully furnished, comfortable apartments range in size from studios to a two-bedroom apartment that can accommodate up to six guests.

Best Things to Do

Get cultured at the Palazzo della Pilotta museum complex.

One ticket grants you access to five incredible sights in this historic palace built for the Farnese dukes: the National Gallery, the Farnese Theater, the Archeological Museum, the Palatine Library, and the Bodoni Museum, which is Italy’s first printing museum. “Palazzo della Pilotta literally transports you into another world and is the ideal place to nourish yourself with beauty, especially the Palatine. Just entering it and being enveloped in silence is enough to replenish you,” says Brianti.

See Correggio’s frescoes in the Camera di San Paolo.

Brianti also recommends visiting the Camera di San Paolo, which was originally part of the abbess’ apartment in the Benedictine convent of Saint Paul. In 1514, the Abbess Giovanni da Piancenza commissioned Correggio to decorate it with frescoes that are considered masterpieces of High Italian Renaissance art. The best part? You may have it all to yourself, as I did when I visited.

Get lost in the charming streets of the centro storico.

Parma’s centro storico (historic center) is full of narrow streets lined with boutiques, restaurants, and bars. Start at Piazza Garibaldi, the city’s main square, and wander north toward the Duomo (the main cathedral). “Taking a walk in Strada Cavour means shopping, artistic encounters, and gives you the feeling of being in a film,” Brianti says.

Visit a dairy to learn how Parmigiano-Reggiano is made.

For a fascinating lesson in cheesemaking, book a visit to one of Parma’s dairies to learn how authentic Parmigiano-Reggiano is produced. The family-run Caseficio Montecoppe offers tours and tastings, plus they have a shop so you can buy their cheeses to bring home.

Take a walk in the Parco Ducale.

Created by Duke Ottavio Farnese in 1561 and expanded in the 1700s, this serene green space became a public park with Italian unification in the 1860s. Within the park, there’s a playground for kids, an area for dogs, fountains, sport tracks, and a cafe with outdoor tables. “Every adult from Parma ran around here as a kid and ate popcorn in the park,” notes Brianti.

Best Shopping

La Prosciutteria Silvano Romani

Want to bring home some of the region’s gastronomic specialties? This little salumeria is packed with charcuterie, cheeses, tortellini, and other culinary specialties, many of which are packaged in vacuum-sealed containers. This is also a good place to buy provisions for a picnic on the lawn of the Palazzo della Pilotta or the Parco Ducale.

Gazzabuglio

This pint-sized boutique sells a highly curated selection of vintage designer bags, jewelry, and clothes. The owner seeks out hard-to-find pieces, such as vintage Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Hermès bags.

I Love My House

“This store always has what I’m looking for, and the owner is very helpful. They have a store on Via Emilia with design items for the home, and when I want a touch of class at home, I always go there,” Brianti says.

Best Nightlife

Enoteca Tabarro

This little wine bar just a couple of blocks from Piazza Garibaldi is the place to go to try natural wines from Emilia-Romagna and beyond. If the weather is good, grab a stool outside and perch at one of the tables made from wine barrels.

Best Restaurants

Trattoria Ai Due Platani

This traditional trattoria just outside the city center was founded in the 1920s, and it’s still a favorite among locals. The pumpkin-stuffed tortelli are a must, but be sure to save room for dessert because they wheel over a cart of homemade gelato with toppings so you can create your own sundae, Italian style.

Sorelle Picchi

“I love Sorelle Picchi because you can always get a table without a reservation, since it’s a big place. They serve typical Parma food in an ambiance that feels like an old country house,” says Brianti, adding, “Their torta fritta is unbeatable!”

Ristorante Cocchi

This old-school, family-run restaurant attached to the Daniel Hotel has been satisfying diners since 1925. The retro ambiance features wood paneling, white tablecloths, shelves full of wine bottles, and colorful art on the walls. Try the pumpkin flan with parmesan fonduta and the parmesan rice savarin, a dome of rice draped with prosciutto.

Osteria dei Servi

“For me, dinner at the Osteria dei Servi means, above all, stracchino della duchessa, the best dessert that exists!” Brianti exclaims. Expect a charmingly traditional ambiance, with painted wooden chairs and checkered table runners, friendly service, and delicious food.

Antica Pasticceria Pagani

Come here to try the torta ungherese, a rich chocolate cake made with layers of sponge cake and chocolate buttercream. At this historic pastry shop — which opened in 1856 — you can get an individual portion to eat here or buy a whole cake to go.

Best Time to Visit

“My favorite season is autumn because in the spring we all suffer from allergies, and in summer and winter we don’t enjoy the city because we can’t wait to go home to the warmth or cold,” says Brianti. “With its colors, illuminated shop windows, and aperitivo outside, autumn is charming.”

Parma hosts a number of events throughout the year that are worth planning a trip around, too.

The Cena dei Mille is an unforgettable annual event in which a 1,300-foot-long table is set up in the city center and a thousand people dine together with the music of Giuseppe Verdi wafting through the air. Mercanteinfiera, Parma’s legendary antiques fair, takes place twice a year (in the spring and fall) and attracts collectors and designers from around the world.

How to Get There

Parma has a small airport with flights to and from cities in Italy and Europe, but if you’re flying from the U.S., the closest major airport is Guglielmo Marconi Airport in Bologna, which is about an hour away. Parma is also well connected to the rest of Italy by train.

How to Get Around

The historic center is quite compact and walkable, so bring comfortable shoes. The city is flat, so locals often get around by bicycle.

Buses: Trasporti Publici Parma runs a network of buses. A single fare costs €1.70 and is valid for 80 minutes.

Taxi: Radio Taxi Parma is the city’s taxi company. From Bologna G. Marconi Airport to the historic center, there’s a fixed rate of €140 (plus possible surcharges for luggage and tolls), but usually fares are calculated based on time and distance traveled. Download the itTaxi app or call +39.052.1252562 to hail a taxi.