Toxic threads? The hidden dangers of ultra-fast fashion

Ultra-fast fashion sites such as Shein and Temu have surged in popularity in Australia and across the globe.

Australians are the world’s biggest fashion consumers and they are increasingly turning to these online retailers and marketplaces, which offer trendy clothing at incredibly low prices, amid the cost-of-living crisis.

These shopping sites have faced widespread criticism for worker exploitation and the use of unsustainable materials. But an equally alarming issue that’s less often discussed is the presence of harmful chemicals in some of their products.

Harmful substances, hundreds of times over the legal limit

Cotton, polyester, wool, rubber: When you’re shopping for clothes or shoes, you’ve probably noticed most items are labelled with the material each item is made from. But the fibre composition disclosed on the label is only one part of the picture.

What is never disclosed on a care label is the colourant used to dye or print on a garment, or the many other chemical additives that are part of regular fabric finishes.

Some of these chemicals are used to make plastic flexible; others stop fabric from wrinkling, are used for waterproofing and stain resistance, or lurk in synthetic materials such as polyester or nylon.

These invisible parts of the clothes we wear against our skin require interrogation.

Recent investigations have revealed alarming levels of harmful chemicals in ultra-fast fashion items.

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Without mandatory labelling of all chemical substances in textiles, it can be difficult for consumers to know exactly what they’re really wearing.

In August 2024, South Korean authorities found that some clothing items from retailer Shein, as well as online marketplaces Temu and AliExpress, contained harmful substances, including carcinogens, at levels hundreds of times over the legal limit.

Out of 144 products tested, multiple items from all three companies failed to meet legal standards. For instance, shoes from Shein were found to contain phthalates at levels 229 times above the legal limit.

While not all phthalates are carcinogenic, some are classified as possible or probable human carcinogens by the International Cancer Institute and the US Health Department. Research from the University of Vermont Cancer Center has also linked phthalates to higher incidences of specific childhood cancers.

This issue is not new. In 2022, Greenpeace Germany tested 47 products from Shein (which sells its own Shein label and others from third-parties) and found that seven (15 per cent) contained hazardous chemicals exceeding EU regulatory limits.

Six of these seven products were boots or shoes. The problem items contained substances such as polyaromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), phthalates, formaldehyde, and heavy metals like cadmium, lead, mercury, and chromium.

Long-term exposure to PAHs may lead to cancer, while cadmium is highly toxic and known to cause cancer. Lead can damage the brain, heart, kidneys and reproductive systems.

A 2021 investigation by the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (CBC) also highlighted similar concerns. As part of that investigation, scientists found a toddler’s jacket from Shein contained nearly 20 times the amount of lead deemed safe by Health Canada. A red purse had more than five times the legal limit of lead.

Some items contained high levels of per- and poly-fluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), which are known endocrine disruptors and are considered ‘forever chemicals’ because they do not break down in the environment.

According to Professor Miriam Diamond from the University of Toronto, PFAS can lead to various health issues, including cancer, obesity, impaired immune function, and diabetes.

How worried should we be?

Some toxic chemicals can cause harm when they come into direct contact with skin or the digestive system.

But the mere presence of these chemicals in a fashion item doesn’t mean the wearer will definitely be affected, especially after short-term use.

In Canada, following the CBC’s investigation, national regulator Health Canada suggested that “unless a toddler under age four is sucking on the purse for more than three hours on a daily basis, the purse is not a significant source of exposure to phthalates”.

What’s more, some chemicals are more dangerous with long-term exposure.

In Australia, the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC) has occasionally recalled products after finding hazardous chemicals during testing of jeans and other clothing.

“The fact that you’ve handled products or worn jeans once or twice — you should not be at risk, the migration risk is very low,” ACCC deputy chair Delia Rickard said after one such recall in 2014.

“However because this is a known carcinogen, you really want to stamp out any risk at all.”

Regulatory gaps and loopholes

The regulation of harmful chemicals in textiles varies by region and country. The European Union has had stringent regulations since the 1990s. Many developed countries have begun regulating the chemicals in imported textiles, clothing and footwear.

But Australia lags in this respect.

While certain chemicals like azo dyes and formaldehyde are restricted in Australian-made textiles due to their harmful effects, these regulations can be found in many imported products. 

This creates a loophole where consumers can unknowingly purchase unsafe clothing from ultra-fast fashion retailers. For example, azo dyes and formaldehyde must not reach harmful levels in Australian textiles, but these chemicals are commonly found in fast fashion products made overseas.

This means items purchased from online retailers may bypass local regulations, posing health risks to consumers. (And with more than 90 per cent of the apparel found in our stores imported, this is a widespread issue).

What’s more, Australia currently doesn’t have a national mandatory information standard in place for fibre content labelling let alone labelling of dyes or chemical additives. Countries that commonly manufacture ultra-fast fashion (such as China) don’t have well-enforced regulations around this kind of labelling, either.

This is another regulatory gap. Without mandatory labelling of all chemical substances in textiles, it can be difficult for consumers to know exactly what they’re really wearing.

What can be done?

Stricter import controls, better enforcement of existing regulations, and new rules around the labelling of chemicals in textiles, could help. 

Additionally, better international cooperation might ensure harmful chemical regulations are enforced in manufacturing countries.

Some countries have already taken steps to curb the impact of fast (and ultra-fast) fashion.

For instance, France has implemented measures to reduce textile waste and promote sustainable fashion. Australia could follow suit by introducing policies that not only regulate harmful chemicals but also encourage sustainable practices in the fashion industry.

Consumers also play a crucial role. Awareness campaigns can educate the public about the risks even those that are seemingly invisible — associated with ultra-fast fashion, encouraging more sustainable choices.

Given the environmental and potential health implications of these retailers, it may be time for consumers to rethink their fashion habits and opt for more sustainable options.

Slowing down on consumption isn’t just about the flow on effect of fast fashion ending up in landfill, it is also about ensuring that we don’t find out about the damage of what we are putting on our bodies after it is too late.

Just as lead was found to be dangerous in cosmetics in the 18th century, we need to take seriously the chemical additives in our clothes.

As we navigate the complexities of modern consumerism, it is crucial to prioritise safety and sustainability over short-term affordability.

Dr Saniyat Islam is a Senior lecturer in Fashion Enterprise and Sustainable Innovation at the School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University. His key research expertise is in Textile Materials and Polymer Science. His current research focuses on Circular Business models, Blockchain innovation for Fashion Enterprises, sustainable textile materials, and supply-chain traceability of fashion systems.

Dr Pia Interlandi is a Senior Lecturer in the School of Fashion and Textiles at RMIT University. Working at the intersections of fashion, funerals and forensics, Pia explores materials and materiality in relation to dress, death, and decomposition. A founding member of the Order of the Good Death, Natural Death Advocacy Network and Australian Death Studies Society, Pia has spent over a decade advocating for creativity at end of life.

RMIT University’s AI assistant Val was used to simplify the language used in this article and reduce its length.

Originally published under Creative Commons by 360info™.