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Travel: Step into a fairy tale in Charlevoix, Michigan

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Travel: Step into a fairy tale in Charlevoix, Michigan

Steve Stephens
 |  Special to The Columbus Dispatch

Midwestern small towns can look a lot alike, but experienced travelers know there’s always something that makes each stand out.

In Michigan, Charlevoix’s magnificent setting between the shore of Lake Michigan and the azure waters of Lake Charlevoix ensures that visitors are not likely to confuse the town for any other. But Charlevoix is also home to a group of whimsical  – some might say “magical” – buildings that are sure to charm those who seek them out.

The Mushroom Houses of Charlevoix are a collection of more than two dozen homes, plus three commercial buildings constructed a century ago, beginning in the 1920s by self-taught local builder Earl Young.

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Each structure is located in or near downtown Charlevoix, and each is a unique and fascinating example of an architecture that blends something from arts and crafts and storybook styles with a touch of Young’s own crazy genius.

The buildings get their name from their appearance. With walls of local stone and boulders, and cedar-shake roofs with lines that bend and twist like waves or growing tree branches, the structures seem as if they could have sprung naturally, like mushrooms, out of the surrounding soil.

The boulders that support the houses were meticulously chosen by Young who, yes, was a boulder collector who would sometimes squirrel away favorite specimens he came across for use on future projects. Then the houses were built around the chosen boulders, giving each a distinct personality.

The first sight of a Mushroom House will likely transport many visitors, at least those with a touch of romance in their soul, to some favorite fictional snuggery. Some might recall a favorite fairy tale set in the Black Forest. Others will be transported to J.R.R. Tolkein’s Hobbiton, Toad Hall from “Wind in the Willows” or maybe even Smurf Village.

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Although Young had little formal training – he studied architecture at the University of Michigan for a short time before giving up on traditional pedagogy – his buildings have a respect for their setting reminiscent of those designed by famed architect Frank Lloyd Wright (although many people might prefer Young’s less disciplined, more fanciful style).

Most of the houses are still private homes, set on quiet residential streets in three distinct clusters.

The Charlevoix Historical Society offers walking tours of the Mushroom Houses that include interesting anecdotes and stories about Young and his creations. Visitors can also pick up a map and brochure at the historical society museum to take their own self-guided tour.

For visitors who want to do more than just look, several of the original houses are also available for overnight rentals.

Young also designed two Charlevoix hotels, which still host guests: Weathervane Terrace Inn and The Earl, originally Earl Young’s Weathervane Lodge.

One great way to experience an Earl Young building up close – without an overnight commitment – is to dine at the Young-designed Weathervane Inn Restaurant. The restaurant is located on the Pine River, the channel that connects Lake Michigan through downtown Charlevoix to Round Lake and Lake Charlevoix.

Diners have a front-row seat to watch the busy boat traffic that comes through the channel when the drawbridge on U.S. 31, adjacent to the restaurant, opens every half-hour or as needed.

Visitors will also find plenty more to see and do while exploring Charlevoix’s bustling and tourist-friendly downtown and the surrounding area. Visit online visitcharlevoix.com for more information.

Steve Stephens is a freelance travel writer and photographer. Email him at sjstephensjr@gmail.com.

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