What It’s Like to Experience Polar Night in the World’s Northernmost Town

At 78 degrees north latitude, which is about 12 degrees farther north than the lower boundary of the Arctic Circle, Svalbard is no stranger to polar night. Throughout this period of darkness, the sun remains hidden from us. The sun’s position is so distant that no light reaches Svalbard at all, casting the sky into a perpetual state of pitch-black darkness. Here, only the moon, the stars and the occasional appearances of the northern lights offer up some natural light for us during this everlasting night.

Polar night is the season that takes place each year inside polar circles when night lasts for more than 24 hours. This phenomenon occurs in the Arctic and Antarctic Circles due to the Earth’s rotation in relation to where the sun is positioned. Because the Earth rotates on a tilted axis at 23.5 degrees, there are periods of the year when the areas located in the polar circles on the top and bottom of our planet are either completely obscured from or completely exposed to the light of the sun.

Some latitudes are not situated far enough north to experience continual total darkness. Instead, these locations experience polar twilight as their brightest periods during this season, which replaces their daylight. Svalbard is far enough north to feel the full effects of polar night and witness nearly three months of complete darkness between the middle of November and the end of January.

Although you might assume this time of year is the most challenging period for the locals who call Svalbard home, I quickly learned after my arrival that it is a season many people appreciate. The town of Longyearbyen carries on with daily life in the usual matter. The only notable difference is that everyone walks around with a headlamp permanently attached to their heads.

Since Svalbard lacks an Indigenous population due to its remoteness and how far north it is, a substantial majority of its residents have moved here by choice. Longyearbyen, the largest town on the archipelago, is typically viewed as a place to find employment for a while, rather than a place to make into your lifelong residence.

I believe the choice people make to live here significantly influences how we approach the various seasons, especially polar night. Those who can’t embrace the extended darkness usually don’t remain here for very long. Longyearbyen is full of individuals who have relocated here for all kinds of reasons, but I’ve found that they often share a deep appreciation for nature. This comes in handy when learning to adapt to life on Svalbard, as the forces of nature play such a powerful role in shaping our daily lives here.

When I first came to Svalbard, I had only intended to stay and work for a few months, but much like many other people who have come here, I was bitten by the Svalbard bug. Eight years after first moving to the island, I’m still here.

I once read an article about a journalist who traveled to Longyearbyen to write a piece about polar night. His goal was to gather insight from the locals about the challenges of living through the long, dark period. He anticipated that he would hear about how it was the worst time of the year. To his surprise, most people he interviewed shared their appreciation for the enchanting polar night. They described how our village transformed into an even closer-knit community during this time, and many people highlighted the beauty of the polar night season. They shared tales of the calm and peaceful atmosphere and how life in the darkness seems to follow a slower, more relaxed rhythm.

Living this far north in a place marked by extreme weather and seasons, you learn to appreciate it all. Each season has its own special magic, and I believe it would be a shame if we only longed for the more standard seasons that we don’t have. I’m not implying that everyone here loves polar night, but since we’ve all chosen to live here in this distinctive place, we have to take it for what it is. There’s so much you can miss out on if you don’t embrace Svalbard’s unique seasons!

Personally, I enjoy the polar night tremendously. I find it to be serene, as it’s a wonderful time to unwind and enjoy life at a slower pace. I savor the calm it brings. While I may not be as fond of the long months of midnight sun during polar day, I realize that too is part of the experience living this far north. I try my best to consider every season as part of the Arctic’s magic.

I’ve always believed that our mind-sets and approaches to each season, particularly winter, significantly influence how we feel about it. Before the darkness of polar night fully sets in, I make a conscious effort to create a warm and cozy atmosphere in our living space. This includes hanging up a lot of string lights—the delicate, copper-wire ones that resemble Christmas lights. I put them up everywhere, hanging them along the ceiling, nestling them inside glass vases, and discreetly placing them behind the books on our bookshelf. I love the ambience they create and the extra bit of light they provide during our darkest days. They just make me happy!

However, it’s not only about transforming your living space; it’s also about embracing the elements of winter. There have been studies that prove just how important our seasonal mind-sets are. I was lucky enough to speak with Kari Leibowitz, a health psychologist with a PhD in social psychology from Stanford, who spent a year conducting research on this topic at the University of Tromso, located 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle. She discovered that having a positive attitude toward winter, which includes how people think and feel about the season, is directly linked to their well-being. When someone has a positive outlook on winter, they’re able to feel happier and more personally fulfilled during the season. Leibowitz conducted a survey at the end of January 2015, canvassing 238 Norwegians living across Norway and Svalbard. The survey results showed that people who have a more positive wintertime mind-set also tend to be happier overall!

I view winter as a season brimming with opportunities. When the first snow arrives, it brings a refreshing, crisp scent. I love how the world becomes a bit quieter with a thick layer of snow on the ground, highlighting the sound of snow crunching underfoot as I walk. Despite the absence of daylight during our winters, I look forward to my daily walks with my dog, Grim, which we take in complete darkness. In winter, I often feel an even stronger connection to nature too, as it offers such an unfiltered and authentic experience. The combination of darkness, freezing temperatures, and frequently harsh weather can be tough for anyone venturing outside. Yet it’s precisely this ruggedness that I value, allowing me to fully embrace the outdoors not just on the easy days.

I’m aware winter isn’t always a flawless, postcard-perfect wonderland with pristine white snow. In Svalbard especially, we encounter our fair share of challenging weather during the winter season. On those days when we face intense snowstorms that cover the roads in thick, gray slushy snow and leave me questioning the durability of our windows, we opt for a slower pace to get by. After a day of work, we snuggle indoors and relax by watching a good movie as the storm rages outside. Winter is the ideal time to indulge in the little activities that bring you comfort and joy, like enjoying that extra cup of coffee, lighting a nice candle, or diving into your favorite video game (for me, it’s “Stardew Valley”). As you aim to cherish the beauty in the little things, the broader picture of the whole year and the changes that come with each season start to become more beautiful as well.

Excerpted from Life on Svalbard reprinted by permission of DK, a division of Penguin Random House LLC. Copyright © 2024 by Cecilia Blomdahl.