Why Kantamanto Market’s Fiery Destruction Could Leave Sustainable Fashion Up in Smoke

“The once-vibrant market had been transformed into a desolate scene of smoldering ruins and thick smoke,” wrote visual artist and photographer Natalija Gormalova on Instagram. “Vendors were frantically salvaging what little remained of their stock, while others scavenged burnt metal to sell as scrap. The air was heavy with grief, frustration and despair. Among the chaos, a few children tried to steal scrap metal, only to be scolded by elders. I overheard passersby say, ‘The heart of Accra is burning.’”

In another social media post, Upcycle It Ghana, a nonprofit whose stall was destroyed by the flames, called the incident a tragic one that has “wiped out years of hard work and robbed many of their vital source of livelihood.” Fashion designer Yayra Agbofah of The Revival, who works with the market’s castoffs, posted a scene of the devastation with a caption that said, “All we have is bare ground.” Story producer Sena Kpodo, who has been documenting conditions in Ghana, said that she saw “tough guys and aunties fight back hard tears as everything they’ve worked for burnt to the ground.” One retailer simply told The Or Foundation that “there is nothing to salvage.”

President Akufo-Addo offered his condolences on Friday, saying that he was “deeply saddened” by the fire and extending his “heartfelt sympathies” to the “hardworking traders who have lost their goods and investments.” The government “stands with you, and will work with relevant agencies to ascertain the causes of the fire, and to provide the needed support,” he said. “As a nation, let us unite in compassion and solidarity to help those who have suffered losses. Together, we can extend a helping hand to our fellow Ghanaians in need during this challenging time.”

But the tragedy has implications that extend beyond the local secondhand community, Daniel Mawuli Quist, The Or Foundation’s creative director, told Sourcing Journal. He said that what happened matters for sustainable fashion writ large because Kantamanto, in spite of its minimal resources, has become a “shining example of what a true circular economy can look like in action.” This includes the work the organization has been doing to divert the market’s waste to more productive outlets, such as the manufacturing of mops, speakers, hangers and laptop stands.

For a linear economy where there are few solutions at scale for unwanted clothing, Kantamanto has also become one of its final sinks for the increasing deluge of poor-quality merchandise from the global North that has been characterized as a form of “waste colonialism.” It’s among the reasons that The Or Foundation has been urging fashion brands and retailers to publicly declare their annual production volumes.

“Kantamanto’s model of reusing and recycling clothing offers a powerful example of sustainable fashion in action, highlighting the potential for local initiatives to drive global change,” Quist said. “While the industry often touts sustainability as a buzzword or marketing tactic for selling new products, Kantamanto proves that true sustainability is about more than just new sales. it’s about creating a circular system that values every part of the value chain.”

Now, he said, it’s time for the industry to step up and demonstrate solidarity, not only by recognizing the value of secondhand markets like Kantamanto, but by providing “tangible help” to rebuild and sustain them.

“The industry’s support is essential to ensure that sustainable models like Kantamanto’s continue to thrive, providing a lifeline for both the local community and the broader push for a more circular, ethical, and resilient fashion economy,” Quist added.