Why Lagos Space Programme is pulling out of Paris Fashion Week

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Among the photos of the International Woolmark Prize winners of 2023 was a joyful shot of Lagos Space Programme’s founder Adeju Thompson holding his trophy above his head — a triumphant moment for the Nigerian designer. Almost exactly a year later, Thompson is at another tipping point: he’s pulling out of Paris Fashion Week men’s in June amid a strategy rethink.

The decision shines a spotlight on the challenges African designers face when trying to scale internationally. “It’s so hard for designers in the West [to build a sustainable and profitable business]. Now think about how hard it is for a designer from the continent,” says Thompson, who was slated to showcase his Spring/Summer 2025 collection on 23 June in Paris. He plans to return to the schedule in January 2025.

“Being in Paris and being on the official schedule has always been a huge dream of mine,” says Thompson. However, for an emerging designer with limited cash flow, showcasing in one of the major fashion capitals is a huge expense, he flags. Thompson spent approximately €53,000 on his AW24 presentation in January, but didn’t see a high enough return on investment.

He also points to the wider luxury slowdown: “We’re operating like fashion is the same way it was 20 years ago, but it’s not. The market, especially in Paris, is highly competitive and has reached saturation point, being a great designer is not enough.” The relationship with wholesale partners is becoming increasingly volatile, he adds; last year, one multi-brand retailer didn’t pick up an order worth €9,000. In order to generate cash, Thompson launched a microsite and is now selling the collection there.

It was time for a reset. “Pulling out [of Paris this season] means we have money to use in other important aspects of Lagos Space Programme that can really help us make sure we create a sustainable business,” he says. This includes preparing the brand’s direct-to-consumer e-commerce site, which is launching this summer, partly supported by Woolmark. Slowing down will also give him time to introduce more commercial pieces to his portfolio, such as T-shirts and jeans, on the advice of buyers and press. He plans to come back in January with a well-rounded collection that is more attractive to international buyers, he says.