Wigs, Corsets & ‘Wicked’ Costuming: Hollywood’s Top Stylists On What Awards Season Holds

It’s our favourite time of year (sorry, fashion month), when Hollywood becomes its most Hollywood. While we wrestle ourselves out of the post-Christmas slump, Tinsel Towners Lyma roll their way onto every red carpet along the walk of fame. It’s a tough job, but someone’s got to do it! As always, the fashion hinges on the talent. With industry heavyweights Angelina Jolie, Demi Moore and Nicole Kidman vying for the top prizes, alongside Irish sweetheart Saoirse Ronan – who recently enjoyed a complete wardrobe overhaul care of It-stylist Danielle Goldberg – and newcomer Mikey Madison, big-name brands will be jostling to out-custom commission one another. But while we grab the popcorn to watch the commercial contracts play out – particularly after a year of designer musical chairs – there will be quieter moments of archival joy, body positivity and shape-shifting menswear if LA’s top stylists are correct in their predictions. Here’s what the great and good of Hollywood will be wearing during awards season 2025.

Colman Domingo-inspired suiting

After a year defined by tiny cardigans (hi, Paul Mescal!) and chintzy brooches dotting lapels (looking at you, Cillian Murphy), menswear has become its own minefield to navigate. It is no longer enough, for example, to take the same classic Armani suit to the Golden Globes and the SAG Awards and the Oscars. There must be a narrative to tell, an awareness of the trend cycle to showcase (without bowing to fads!), and a friendship with a major jewellery house to flaunt. “There will be a lot of different takes on the shirt and bow tie,” asserts Ilaria Urbinati, who dresses Barry Keoghan and Aaron Taylor-Johnson, and believes that the cut of suiting as we know it is going to shift. “Obviously skinny tailoring has been out for a while now, but I am growing a little tired of the overly baggy fit – it feels like an overcorrection,” she asserts. With directional dresser Timothée Chalamet, artfully dishevelled Loewe muse Daniel Craig and tailoring-with-a-twist aficionado Colman Domingo on the awards circuit, who will step up to the plate?

Colman Domingo in Dolce & Gabbana at the Governors Awards, which closed out 2024 and acted as a barometer of what’s to come.

Steve Granitz

Guccified gladiator Paul Mescal doing classic shirting his way at the same event.

Steve Granitz

Method beauty

We know we sounded the death knell on method dressing after we reached peak naked gown during the Madame Web tour, but then Law Roach and Zendaya brought back that Mugler gynoid suit and we had to reconsider our sniping. Characterful red-carpet wear can work in small doses, OK! After a festive season dominated by the wickedly on-the-nose red-carpet looks of Ariana Grande and Cynthia Erivo, Tom Eerebout, the man behind Lady Gaga’s Joker style, thinks the devil will be in the details going forward: “Jewellery, accessories, wigs and make-up will be on-theme, so the full look is very cohesive with little symbolic nods.” If Erivo’s crystal-choked nails are a barometer of all-out method beauty, somewhere along the road to Oz will do just fine.

Cynthia Erivo’s nails became a talking point in their own right during the Wicked press tour.

@lloydpursall

Co-star Ariana Grande also leaned into characterful beauty as the Wicked juggernaut took over the world.

@katiatemkin

Colourism

“After a timely break when neutrals reigned supreme, we expect to see a lot more hues on the carpet this season,” explain styling double act Dani + Emma, who masterminded Juliette Lewis’s chic glow-up. “With that, we might see a more-is-more approach, pushing what is expected with textures, embellishments and drama. This will – hopefully – bring an avant-garde feel to the carpets.” Thomas Christos Kikis, the wardrobe consultant helping Reese Witherspoon’s daughter Ava Phillippe shape her look, also believes that “overly intentional quiet minimalism is fading away – we’re all craving glamour and an escape!” Expect Alessandro Michele’s first Valentino looks to make a splash and act as a statement of intent regarding romanticism over reductionism.

Saoirse Ronan’s awards season will be defined by custom Louis Vuitton, such as this spearmint confection at the Governors Awards.

Matt Winkelmeyer

Make way for punchy young designer moments, like this Standing Ground look worn by Tilda Swinton.

Steve Granitz

Corsetry

“Playing it too safe, and dressing for anyone but yourself” are the trends that Dani + Emma hope fade out in favour of self-expression – and skin. “Women deserve to express themselves however they desire and however makes them feel confident and powerful; that is sexy and should always be on trend.” Their answer to this? Lingerie, corsetry and anything else that lets the female body shine. If you thought sheer was out, think again. The naked dress is dead, long live the naked dress!

Breakout star Mikey Madison – pictured here in Schiaparelli couture at the Gotham Awards – will be one to watch.

Taylor Hill

Corset queens Cynthia Erivo and Ariana Grande in just two of the cinched looks (courtesy of Dior and Louis Vuitton, respectively) on the Wicked tour.

Bruce Glikas

Archive olympics

Central to the rise in individuality is the booming appetite for archive fashion, which lets onlookers know that its wearer a) has close connections with the top vintage dealers, b) is quietly truffling away pieces for their own fashion vault, and c) has the money to bankroll these rare acquisitions (think: Zendaya buying that exquisite piece of John Galliano history especially for the Met Gala and you’re there). With leading archive fashionistas Zendaya and Rihanna not expected to grace the SAGs, etc, the floor is open for anyone – come on, Nicole Kidman! – to take the vintage crown. “With that said,” chimes in Christos Kikis, “awards season dressing is wildly unpredictable and full of surprises, which is why it’s become such a spectator sport.” Could the Vanity Fair Oscars Party tempt some heavyweight fashion plates into the main arena? Certainly the model set – and perhaps Kylie Jenner, as Best Supporting Act to Timothée Chalamet – will come out to play.

Nosferatu star Lily-Rose Depp can always be relied upon for archive Chanel, as shown here in AW18 couture.

Steve Granitz

Angelina Jolie made fashion headlines with her no-name vintage sourced by Kit Vintage at the Governors Awards.

Jon Kopaloff/Getty Images